Q:

customized Talon P

Here’s my Talon P with carbon fiber wrap and 17ci tank and ar 15 adjustable stock and R&L airgun shoud.

TalonP (Pistol)

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Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 50 total)

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quote Hoot:

quote LEE IN VA.:

Hoot, how fast were the surefire slugs going with 15″ barrel? What made you go with 15″ any ways?

I don’t really care about my nads any more as long as my guns are powerful.

I didn’t have a chrony at that time, so I don’t really know. I DO know that I was ricocheting those 7 ring slugs off hardwood trees at over 100′, and the resultant whine lasted about five seconds. They were flat ass moving and those were 65gr slugs!

I went 15″ because I didn’t want a full sized rifle, I wanted a carbine that was as powerful as a full sized rifle. AF Talon SS’s, with a 14″ to 16″ barrel, and a hot valve, have been posted many times in the Talon section in the past, as reaching well into the 800+ fps range. And…in those days they didn’t have anything more powerful than the hi-flo Condor valve. Today, the R&L Extreme, TalonP valve, Tony’s hopped up valve, all will out do those old Condor OEM valves. My 15″ was just splitting the difference between too small a gain, and no longer than I needed. Actually 14″ would have been plenty for my 150′ varmit killin’.

a 14″ to 16″ barrel also allows you to achieve reasonable quiet with a shorter shroud. With that TalonP, you are going to need at least a 12″ R&L shroud, or get one from Neil Clague, Tony, or another builder who knows what their doing. I would not recommend going less than a 12″ modifier on a hopped up .25 caliber.

By the way…it is a little known fact that a 12″ barrel will shoot as accurately at 100 yards as an 18″ or 24″ barrel. That’s been tried, tested, and found true. Length of barrel on a pcp only gives you more fps, about 50 fps, or so, per inch, perhaps more with the newer valves. So base the length of your barrel on power, and personal overall length preference, not accuracy! In any length, the LW barrel will out shoot you every day of the week, at any distance!

That additional 3″ in a 15″ barrel, as a general example, would bring a .25 caliber from 700 fps, up to 850+ fps, dependent on pellet weight. The TalonP is certainly hitting at least 700 fps! So, in air gun terms, that 3″ gives a serious increase! Especially considering the mid to upper 800 fps range is where you get the best accuracy.

All thoughts for consideration. “More” isn’t always an improvement. Sometimes “just enough” is plenty!

The above information is from years past posted results, my personal experience, and articles written by knowledgeable individuals on other forums. Not everyone will agree…that I can’t help.

H 😯 😯 t

I’m considering getting a factory 18″ Airforce barrel seeing if its too hot for pellets, which it probably will be. Try some Jerrys slugs and if there accurate keep shooting them or if I’m not happy with the length of the gun or want to cast my own bullets just cut the choke off to a desired length. Wonder how much has to be cut off to remove choke?

I post them tomorrow

quote ecarnero:

Hoot thanks for the information you answer a butch of my questions. I got some jerry surefire 6 ring slugs I’m going to chorny tomorrow. That would let me know where I have to be for the regulator and if I need a longer barrel.

Eddie

I’m really curious about your chrony results!!!!!

I’ve always wondered what those babies were doing when I shot them. This is as close to my setup as exists right now…

H 😯 😯 t

Lee nice setup, looking good !!!!!

Hoot thanks for the information you answer a butch of my questions. I got some jerry surefire 6 ring slugs I’m going to chorny tomorrow. That would let me know where I have to be for the regulator and if I need a longer barrel.

Eddie

quote LEE IN VA.:

Hoot, how fast were the surefire slugs going with 15″ barrel? What made you go with 15″ any ways?

I don’t really care about my nads any more as long as my guns are powerful.

I didn’t have a chrony at that time, so I don’t really know. I DO know that I was ricocheting those 7 ring slugs off hardwood trees at over 100′, and the resultant whine lasted about five seconds. They were flat ass moving and those were 65gr slugs!

I went 15″ because I didn’t want a full sized rifle, I wanted a carbine that was as powerful as a full sized rifle. AF Talon SS’s, with a 14″ to 16″ barrel, and a hot valve, have been posted many times in the Talon section in the past, as reaching well into the 800+ fps range. And…in those days they didn’t have anything more powerful than the hi-flo Condor valve. Today, the R&L Extreme, TalonP valve, Tony’s hopped up valve, all will out do those old Condor OEM valves. My 15″ was just splitting the difference between too small a gain, and no longer than I needed. Actually 14″ would have been plenty for my 150′ varmit killin’.

a 14″ to 16″ barrel also allows you to achieve reasonable quiet with a shorter shroud. With that TalonP, you are going to need at least a 12″ R&L shroud, or get one from Neil Clague, Tony, or another builder who knows what their doing. I would not recommend going less than a 12″ modifier on a hopped up .25 caliber.

By the way…it is a little known fact that a 12″ barrel will shoot as accurately at 100 yards as an 18″ or 24″ barrel. That’s been tried, tested, and found true. Length of barrel on a pcp only gives you more fps, about 50 fps, or so, per inch, perhaps more with the newer valves. So base the length of your barrel on power, and personal overall length preference, not accuracy! In any length, the LW barrel will out shoot you every day of the week, at any distance!

That additional 3″ in a 15″ barrel, as a general example, would bring a .25 caliber from 700 fps, up to 850+ fps, dependent on pellet weight. The TalonP is certainly hitting at least 700 fps! So, in air gun terms, that 3″ gives a serious increase! Especially considering the mid to upper 800 fps range is where you get the best accuracy.

All thoughts for consideration. “More” isn’t always an improvement. Sometimes “just enough” is plenty!

The above information is from years past posted results, my personal experience, and articles written by knowledgeable individuals on other forums. Not everyone will agree…that I can’t help.

H 😯 😯 t

Hoot, how fast were the surefire slugs going with 15″ barrel? What made you go with 15″ any ways?

I don’t really care about my nads any more as long as my guns are powerful.

You don’t need an 18″ barrel. I had Jim Gaska cut a 15″ LW barrel for mine and it was crazy powerful with 7 ring Jerry’s solid slugs!

What in the world are you going to shoot with it? If you do targets/varmits at long range, then get the 18″ barrel. I believe you’ll gain about 50 fps for each inch of barrel.

If you don’t shroud it, it’s going to be as loud as a standard rimfire rifle.

There are plenty of people who make shrouds for the Talon SS frame, which is the platform the Prod is built on.

Subsonic made one for me that was almost dead silent. Unfortunately, he is either dead or not doing shrouds/inserts anymore.

I wouldn’t touch that valve. It’s hot enough, as is. I don’t believe it is adjustable like the standard valves. It has vents built into it, and it’s just different from the standards.

If you keep souping this thing up, you’re gonna shoot your nads off! A longer barrel is all you need, and a not very long one at that. Unless you go completely nuts and do the .257 thing and go with a 32″ barrel. I don’t think that has been done yet with the Prod.

What the hell….knock yourself out! Have some fun…just be sure someone is video taping when you go down!

Kindest regards….

‘Ol Uncle H 😯 😯 t

PS: I’d certainly go with the 22 ci bottle…for sure!!!

Mine is here! I picked it up used and ordered a Maddog stock. I’m definitely going to need the longer 22 ci. tank for a better cheek weld and of course more shots. It does 900 fps with JSB Kings and is very accurate. Got my Cree 501 red light mounted for the ding dong critters at night.

Even though I bought this gun cause its short, powerful and light I’m already thinking about an 18″ barrel and shoot solid bullets out of it but it would still be pretty short if I didn’t shroud it.

Can the top hat be adjusted on these just like other Airforce guns?

What are you guys running you power wheel at?

Thanks Hoot, I will try that. I’m also going to get the 18″ barrel with the longest shroud I can find. Thanks again with your help.

quote ecarnero:

Back40rob, how’s the report with the 18″ barrel. I have the 12″ with the R&L shroud on it and its still to loud for me. Do you have a shroud on yours ? I have it shooting so good I don’t want to mess with it, but I need to reduce the noise a little.

Lee, let’s see pictures of your new baby.

Eddie

You might try venting the back of the AF frame with some 1/8th” holes. Have them exhaust at the bottom of the shroud, onto the inside of the forearm. This relieves some of the pressure at the muzzle end of the shroud and utilizes all that dead air space behind the R&L shroud.

I used a dremel and chainsaw sharpening stone to simply grind a semi-circle passage for air, between the inside of Randy’s front bushing and the barrel. Of course I only grooved the bushing (it’s too hard to drill) It didn’t take a large “groove” for plenty of air to get back to the rear of the shroud. It does make a difference.

In my experience with the .25 calibers, you either need a very long shroud, or better…a long shroud with rear air vents.

You may hear a tiny bit of “whoosh” when firing, but only you will hear it, sinced it’s muffled by the forearm, and I didn’t feel any of the air exiting when I shot.

Start with 4 holes, in line, see if it helps. I eventually went to six holes in a straight line, perhaps 1/8″ diameter.

If you don’t like, or get the same results I did, simply plug the vent holes with plastic putty from the inside, sand smooth, and spray with flat black paint. However, I believe you will like the results.

Don’t be afraid to add a few more holes, just test it out after each one. If the air vents too fast back there, cut a square of thick felt and place it inside over, or between the shroud and forearm, under the holes. This will muffle any sound.

H 😯 😯 t

It’s about the same with the 18″ barrel and R&L shroud. I got an idea on making it quieter with the 12″ barrel I’ll try tommorow and will post it if it works like I want it to. Mine shot lights out with the 12″ barrel out 75yds. It would nail a Copenhagen can all day at 88yds lazered with rangefinder.

Back40rob, how’s the report with the 18″ barrel. I have the 12″ with the R&L shroud on it and its still to loud for me. Do you have a shroud on yours ? I have it shooting so good I don’t want to mess with it, but I need to reduce the noise a little.

Lee, let’s see pictures of your new baby.

Eddie

quote Hoot:

quote LEE IN VA.:

So did the stock fit the tank or did it have to be modified?

I believe he’s referring to the adjustable butt stock that fits over your 22 ci air cylinder, and I too am wondering where you got it and who makes it?

Thanks!

H 😯 😯 t

No I was referring to the mad dog stock but still good to know about back40robs stock too.

I’m still trying to decide on the mad dog stock or wok guard with my tank like back40robs

Lee you will love it and you will be supprised how accurate it is with the 12″ barrel. I put the 18″ barrel in mine and I have to dial it down to 0/0 to get the JSBs slow enough for accuracy. I got the stock from RAP4.com I got the one with the 17ci bottle but JDS airman has a22ci bottle.

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