DE -pinger mod ???
I dont know squat about Modding and machining, but my understanding is that air in the bottle is forced straight back after the valve has closed causing a ping in the tank.
What I considered doing was to remove the valve, and insert some liquid rubber
into the bottom of the bottle
It would be like a molded piece of rubber in the bottom of the bottle .
do you think this could work?
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But I dont know , this isnt my area of expertise, which is why I come here 😛
Think about that, if there was a suction in the bottle, would the air move in or out? That said, if there was an imperfection in the seal between the rubber and the bottle, there could be a time where a bubble behind the rubber had higher pressure than the air on the opposite side…
Oh, some of you guys reading or posting here have professed great fears about exploding airguns. Has anyone thought that rubber is flammable and putting it in the HPA tank might just cause an explosion of near thermonuclear proportions? 😆 😆 😆 😆
Huh? You already have a foam cover on the tank. On the outside. Or did you strip that off? I don’t think the tank cares if the foam is inside or out.
aloha,
walt
Someone on this forum (do a search) recommends using a flexible PVC? pipe from the valve into the tank. It acts like a drinking straw and reduces the pressure wave in the tank.
Talon Tunes sells a de-pinger kit also – but his replaces the hammer with something that avoids the metal-metal impact.
Do some research – I have neither.
I think it would not work. Maybe they make a special sound absorbing foam that could dampen the ping but it would probably not have a noticeable effect unless it displaced a lot of the tanks volume.. A rubber coating would more likely make it sound a little different. Maybe it would increase the frequency (pitch) of the ping.
I think you would have better luck dampening the Top Hat from slamming into the brass valve guide. That ‘s got to be the source of the pimg.
Thats what Im kinda thinking now , when the valve opens it would create a suction in the bottle as all the air wants to escape .
But I dont know , this isnt my area of expertise, which is why I come here 😛
The air pressure would only hold it against the walls if it forms a complete “balloon” inside the tank with no leaks. If you did get that kind of seal the same would hold true when the tank released air, it would try to pull the rubber off the walls.
I think rubber is a better medium than screen. The air pressure will hold it to the tank wall. There shouldn’t be a vacuum force trying to strip and implode it from the walls.
What type of rubber were you planning to use? With the right compound and application tecnique; it’s spot on.
I suppose I would be shit out of luck :?.
But I dont know , thats why I posted, to see if this is something that might work.
But I dont for-see rubber flaking, but if for some reason a piece did , it would definitely fuck up the valve.
But now Im wondering if the vacum would tear it off the wall of the bottle
what about balled up screening?
If it does not work or starts to flake off, how can you clean it out. You would not want to get a piece of the rubber sticking in your valve.
Sounds do-able, I figure Id let it dry a week or so .
I just wanted to know if the principle was sound. I might try it next week .
I think you would need to coat the tank walls along with the bottom. The walls are parallel to the pressure wave and maybe 4x the surface area. The other important consideration is to make sure this rubber is done outgassing before you re-install the valve.
I don’t know what type of compound would be best/safest but this could be very effective as long as it didn’t become combustible under heat and pressure.
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Meh it wouldn’t be that flammable…
And at any rate… Why not make a small resevoir in the tank.. attached to the valve spring retainer, that would only let air in slowly, so it’d act like a depinger and a dump valve at the same time.. I also think that this would increase consistency too! (kind of like in the air arms pcp line of rifles..)