eunjin .25 accuracy
My condor shoots kings and predators extremely well, but I want to try something heavier. So I tried eunjins (domed and pointed) very disappointing results; 2inch groups on 20yards.
What is needed to shoot them accurate??? Is it the barrel, or also the fps or something else?
They don’t fit easy, I have to use a coin but that isn’t uncommon I read.
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PB
Does your tool load the pellet flush with the breech, or in a bit? If in, about how far?
Here is my experience with the eunjins 22 ,
dont know if this will relay to the 25 or not.when i first shot them i ran them slower in the 700’s and 800’s, but after i turned them up they improved the 32 grain shot better in the 950 to 980 fps range, but only after i had polished my barrel and relieved the breech slightly did they really tighten up , i couldn’t hardly get them in the barrel at first,well now i can push them in with out really excessive pressure, but it will still wear your thumb out for a target session so i built this to seat them, it serves two purposes, it lets you seat the pellet to the same depth every time, and also easily gets the pellet in.
after all this i can get 32 grain groups under 1” at 50 yards.and i have groups under 1/2″.
i have purchased the eun jins in .20 for my Beeman RX.
out of the tin, they would not fit; they were much too tight…fortunately, i purchased .20 sizing dies years ago.
even after sizing them, they still fit tightly.
accuracy is NOT good! i don’t know if it is a result of the sizing or not
i’ll stick with the JSB’s…they’re accurate to the extreme.
i have shot bunches of the 43 grain EJ’s…and accuracy have been just fine, not the best but within 1.5″ at 50-60 yards pushed at 65 fpe from tuned ss valve and 23″ lw barrel
i have oiled pellets for a while…i used a good motor oil and 2-3 drops on a cloth and then swished the pellet around in the cloth….when they come out lead dust would be stuck to cloth, and pellets have a tiny bit of oil on them…never had a problem in either springers (theoben eliminator 30 fpe) or 90 fpe condors….but being USA where everything is someone elses fault, and people suing about just about anything, then no one dares to say it ok so
here’s my disclaimer…i had no problems, but you might
ohh and it didnt help accuracy, what i dont do is clean my barrels unless accuracy all of a sudden is messed up….my SS has 3-4000 pellets through it, and its as accurate as ever…and now that i got close to 5-700 through my crapid its starting to get accurate too
if a tin of pellets are particular dirty i still put a drop(what ever oil i have next to me be it wd40 which is not a good lubricant, or bicycle chain lube, motor oil, as long as its petroleum based…i dont use silicone based oils) on a cloth and swish them around…not to lube but to catch loose fragments
For springers, the place to avoid flammable oils is in the compression tube. The sudden compression creates heat that ignites oil like in a diesel engine.
Many have confused pressure with flammabilty and ignored other aspects of ignition. One fellow even put a video on the net claiming that a drop of oil on a paintball fill nipple had before and could again lead to a monsterous fireball. Apparently he didn’t have the advantage of ever having seen pressure tubes oily to prevent corrosion or just this week, the report about oil dripping from the gauge fitting on a korean gun.
Nonetheless, being ever safer than the next guy is something pretty popular now. Popular enough to not worry if the concerns are really valid, just remotely conceivable.
Never had a problem with it been using it for years. And IV never had any funny smell . I thought it was Springers u shouldn’t use oils on.
My groups got a lot better when I shot the 43’s around 880fps.
HPA is not something you just fuck around with thinking “nothing will happen”.
In most cases, detonation would probably be harmless. The most likely outcome is shitty accuracy and a funny smell.
Anything you cannot control leads to inconsistent firing pressure, which leads to bad grouping.
Just stick to non-petroleum based oils if you intend to use them. The key is, a little goes a long way. A thin film covering the pellet is all you want. If you can see it, theres too much.
x2, since running metal breeches, i first switched to ptfe fortified silicone, then to tetra, as it is a pure fluorocarbon grease.
but for pellets, once i started using chain wax, my barrel has never been happier… 😉
Silicone is crap for metal to metal lubrication. Lubing pellets with oil is fine. Even if you generate a local hot spot in the breach, the energy released will be so tiny as to be harmless and maybe you’ll see a tiny bit of smoke. Lots of myths about oil and airguns out there…
Do Not use anything flamable!
Use silicone grease/oil you can get is from Scuba dive shops.
Detonation! I can’t name all the ones you shouldn’t use in an air gun.
Well witch oil shouldn’t I use? And y shouldn’t I use it?
Thanx guys for all the info.
Gert
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in just past flush. the little rubber piece is so the barrel will not have metal hitting or touching it when seating the pellets.