Q:

Frame Extender insert design – updated

I have updated my Frame Extender shroud internal design with better material. Instead of the copper spacer rings, I now have state of the art hair curlers, reducing metallic sound and adds a buffer zone just inside the ID. All the Reflex pieces are still in place and so that should keep the air flow smooth until it tumbles in the hair curler. Still need at least one spring to keep the pieces tight.

Old design:

New design:

Shrouds and Moderators

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If you have a choice, prefer length to width as the energy is going horizontal initially and this give the energy as much time to expand naturally before you try to reflex the rest of the energy.

quote AirGunner1:

Maybe these pictures will help.

You can punch the hole in either direction for your needs but the reflex is what you want. The other ball bearing and socket idea crushed in a vise will not give you this nice curved baffle.

Now I understand 🙂 that looks great! I had asked about using reflex suppressors for airguns and everyone said you don’t want reflex suppressors for airguns, you want larger ‘cans’ to allow more room for expansion…I was gong to try the freeze plug route, but figured it would be too heavy for airgun use…I have a 10-22 and I’m going to get the BatF form and have my local Sheriff sign off on it so I can make one for it!! Then I’ll use the little low power rounds and it will be very quiet, not to mention TOTALLY LEGAL!!! 😀
Oh yeah!!!!!!

Maybe these pictures will help.

You can punch the hole in either direction for your needs but the reflex is what you want. The other ball bearing and socket idea crushed in a vise will not give you this nice curved baffle.

search for freeze plug type silencers or expansion plug silencers.

You are making m baffles

I looked the first one up for you 😀

http://www.modernrifle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19231&sid=9732644f235e9be69a53cc27ff278581

quote AirGunner1:

These are Dorman Expansion Plugs (automotive freeze plugs) 555-014 7/8″ steel Cup, which I drill an 1/8th hole in the middle and then pound a punch through which simulataneously stretches the hole and bends the reflex. I use a 5/16′ coupler nut (extra long nut of about 1 inch in length) as the support to punch down into.

Sounds good…got any pics of that setup? I just can’t seem to picture it in my mind…

Nice thanks for the info… I’m gonna have to give that a try next week…

These are Dorman Expansion Plugs (automotive freeze plugs) 555-014 7/8″ steel Cup, which I drill an 1/8th hole in the middle and then pound a punch through which simulataneously stretches the hole and bends the reflex. I use a 5/16′ coupler nut (extra long nut of about 1 inch in length) as the support to punch down into.

Hey AG did you make the reflex baffles? or are they available as is?

I would recommend a second set screw on the top of the frame. I just had mine push out with 2 screws and took 1/2 hour to get it off. When I made the shroud I made it fit the frame exact, no slop at all. Of course that was about 15 shots all over 200 fpe.

quote Dyotat100:

Don’t know how that is going to hold up to the pressure that is trying to be held back. How sturdy are those things if you stood one on end and tried to crush it? Mine are .060″‘ on the sides and .200″ on the end that takes the blast.

Recently shot 126 FPE (9-ring slug at 814 fps) and the same ….puff…

This design doesn’t try to stop a force as much as it tries to redirect a force, therefore less brutal impact to the components.

use the magnetic rollers (buy the size that is smaller than the id of the shroud) and just wrap them in craft felt, it’s pretty easy and will be quiet.

quote AirGunner1:

Interesting – what is the advantage of the “magnetic” ? You mean it has magnetism ? but the frame is aluminum ? Please explain.

Airgunner, I don’t think they are actually magnetic in the sense they will attract ferrous metals. I found this explanation somewhere:

Magnetic rollers are hard plastic cylinders with ventilation holes that are called magnetic for the fact that wet hair seems to stick to them and they can be used to wrap hair for curl without styling product.

Interesting – what is the advantage of the “magnetic” ? You mean it has magnetism ? but the frame is aluminum ? Please explain.

A: Magnetic rollers are hard plastic cylinders with ventilation holes that are called magnetic for the fact that wet hair seems to stick to them and they can be used to wrap hair for curl without styling product. Of course, using styling gel or other products will make wrapping the hair easier as the products tend to have an adhesive effect on the hair.

ah ha… I like the Self Stick Conair style because they have nylon threads sticking out and therfore never touch the shroud with the main body, which gives a air gap for the noise to disperse. We’ll see how they test for strength (definitely more holey).

from my experience I havefound what they call magnetic rollers wrapped in felt to work the best. They are alot stronger and do not crush as easy.

This is just a site for example that I found through google
http://www.cachebeauty.com/magnetic_rollers.htm

Walmart carries the Blue 1 inch roller used in this ingenious design.
6 in the package and the rest can be given as a gift, to the neighbor with the designer chickens.

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