Frame Extender insert design – updated
I have updated my Frame Extender shroud internal design with better material. Instead of the copper spacer rings, I now have state of the art hair curlers, reducing metallic sound and adds a buffer zone just inside the ID. All the Reflex pieces are still in place and so that should keep the air flow smooth until it tumbles in the hair curler. Still need at least one spring to keep the pieces tight.
Old design:
New design:
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Good point as it is the barrel centerline that is critcal and the frame could be off by how much each bushing is off. I wonder how much that is.
Have you checked the center of bushings. Are the centers fairly true ? Are the bushings sized for a zero clearance fit on the frame and barrel ?
Best way is to have a bushing in the shroud that centers the shroud on the end of the barrel.
That gives about .008 inches in 6 inches or .00133 degrees variation max.
I think that is very good and could be tighten up with a wrap of tape.
I think the frames vary a couple thousands. My .22 measures 1.014 and I think the .25 was 1.012. Have to pull the barrel to get a measurement.
Good points about stray pellets, but I’m thinking that stray pellets are not really the problem, but rather misaligned shrouds. Afterward which one would pull the shroud and replace and blame it on a stray pellet. (Have never had a stray pellet that close to the muzzle, maybe on the target) The Frame Extender slides about 6 inches into the frame and has an OD of 1.005 to 1.006 (ID of .899 to .901 inches). I don’t know what the ID of the frame is (still waiting for my Condor – since mid June). That design has to be alignment friendly.
Lol maybe.
LOL! Sorry I was watching CNN earlier. However I would rather be safer than sorry. But worst case the plastic curlers become sacrificial?
Hay now im just courious will it catch my pellet ? Windows are expencive and shrapnal hurts. Lol
GH that’s being racist against the careless you know. 😆
I was talking to a friend earler about stray pellets that might hit a shrould? so it makes me wonder how thin is to thin? Standing on is one thing. I make ldc baffles that can proble pop a tire and never deform. but maybe im wrong
Sure they will catch air but will they catch a stray pellet ? Just wondering….
I guess mine are over kill then. You could drive a car over mine on end. Maybe I will chuck them back in the lathe and take them down to .030″ on the sides.
Good point.
If you are meaning the hair curlers. I can stand on one end wise. They also are perforated so they pass the blast but disturb it greatly before the air can contact the shroud.
I’m also considering a spring in the muzzle end to absorb some air impact to the whole assembly, but unsure of the sliding noise.
Based on some quick calculations the force of air concentrated behind the .25 pellet will reduce to 7.2 % when impacting the surface of the Reflex baffle, if the air was uniformly expanded, which it is not as the greatest concentration is still going to be behind the pellet.
Each successive pass beyond the next Reflex baffle allows expansion into a zero pressure zone.
So if the curler can withstand 175 lbs without crushing, then the inverse of that is 175 lbs / .072 = 2430 lbs out of the barrel. (scale wise speaking)
And granted the baffles will pass some air onward behind the pellet, so I only need to capture the expanded air.
Capture is the wrong word, divert, as the design is Reflex as opposed to Reflect.
I think I’m close enough for round one of testing.
Confucius say – Always use a greater force against itself.
Don’t know how that is going to hold up to the pressure that is trying to be held back. How sturdy are those things if you stood one on end and tried to crush it? Mine are .060″‘ on the sides and .200″ on the end that takes the blast.
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I have a delrin bushing in the shroud that centers mine. It is heavily vented.