Hello from West Texas
I am new to the forum and new to the Airforce line of airguns. I own a .25 M-rod and a 2400 Crosman. Just bought a .22 Talon. I will be mostly lurking and listening.
Just wanted to say hello.
Darryl
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My zero is at 10 too. This is confusing. 😯
A couple of observations: I wonder why AF does not install the power dial where the indicator bolt lines up when the dial is at zero? At least mine does not.
…..
Darryl
My 1st Condor had the PW ?zero? at “10”.
The 2nd I bought from TalonTunes has it ZEROED AT ZERO.
I don’t know if Tony fixed it or if AF just has some ass hole that doesn’t do the job he/she/it should be doing.
There are a lot of variables but zero set at #10 should not happen IMO ❗
I wonder if it would restick well if removed and properly applied::?:
I’m guessing here. The B.D. stock I would guess no. Adams trigger guard, I would say yes.
:tag:
Fram flex, otherwise known as frame flex. 😡
Now, tell me about Texas. My wife and I want to move there in two years. Sick of crazy liberal CA. Welcome to the dark side.
You should come now and help us beat back our own crazy libs. You gotta love TX. Our CC carry laws are some of the best in the country. You can actually defend your self. Like the quote from ms congeniality, “it’s TX every body has a gun”.
I here the bull dog stocks also help with the fram flex.
Hold the gun VERY lightly. Frame flex will result from too firm a hold.
Now, tell me about Texas. My wife and I want to move there in two years. Sick of crazy liberal CA. Welcome to the dark side.
New Talon.
I do have a chrony
I do like to tinker.
I am going to try and adjust the top hat in to slow the thing down and 6 to 6.5 on the scale.
A couple of observations: I wonder why AF does not install the power dial where the indicator bolt lines up when the dial is at zero? At least mine does not.
I have read where many have a problem with POI shift. I am experiencing the same with this gun. 1 dot left or one dot right.
The gun has great potential. I shot a 1.5″ group at 66 yrds in the wind Saturday. I am sure in the hands of a better shooter it could be much better. (I let two get away from me but the first 3 were sub 1/2 inch)
Again Thanks,
Darryl
If you like to tinker, then you have the right gun and are in the right place. If you get frustrated tinkering, then send your gun to Tony at TalonTunes; click on the TalonTunes banner at the top of the page. He’ll set it up right and again, you’re in the right place. 😉
Do you have a chronograph? They are a must for tuning. You can’t determine the speed, or consistency of you shots by listening, or shooting into a board. This whole airgun thing is addictive. What seems expensive today is going to seem cheap by tomorrows standards. Today a chronograph, or carbon fiber tank may seem expensive, but in a year from now when you are spending $1000 to $3000 on an AirArms gun, Edgun, Daystate, or a Rapid, you’ll look back and laugh. Once you are here, you’re hooked. Welcome to the madhouse! 😀
Thanks to all. I have a lot to learn.
Well, yes and NO!!! As you adjust the top hat out, the fps will increase. Not what you are looking for. And this would leave you with the only option of having to turn the power wheel down to nothing, and the erratic shots would only get much worse. Soooo—-
1. Use the power wheel to get enough tension on the hammer to not have a dud shot. The tension has t be high enough to over come friction in the frame, and give a consistent strike to the breach, and therefore the valve.
2. Now, adjust the top hat in,( Toward the bottle), in order to bring the fps down. You want to be around 880-900 fps for best accuracy with JSB pellets.
Once you have the gun working the way you want, lock everything in using a touch of clear nail polish, or the very weakest lock-tight to keep it there (Top hat adjustment screws).
Now you can work to find the sweet spot of your guns pressure preference. If a Condor, try starting around 2600 psi, and shooting down to around 1800 psi.
KnifeMaker
Ask any question you may have. We will give you a straight answer, maybe .
Ok! Here is number 1.
Yesterday I was trying to dial in my gun. At 6 I was getting ~1200 fps. I dial it back to 5 and the first shot was ~360fps. Then the gun seemed to shoot normal. Until this morning when I had a HOSP in my sights and pull the trigger. My guess is the pellet came out around ~360. After that the gun shot fine. What is happening?
Thanks in advanced.
I problem that I’ve experienced is the breech not resting snug on the top hat for every shot. When cocked if there’s any slop then you will get a dud shot. Just adjust the top hat to meet the breech without any slack.
Usually within the first two or three replies you will get the answer that works for you. So as to not frustrate you on the first try, let’s start with defining the problem.
The AF pcp has the highest potential of any air rifle on the market at a moderate price but, to achieve some of that potential I found it to be like a kit. The more familiar you become with its functions, bits, pieces, proper maintenance and customizable parts the more you will get out of it. In the problem you presented here, several causes can have apparently the same effect.
So for starters, is it a brand new rifle or just new to you ❓
Different calibers sometimes come with different valves so every bit of info can make a difference. The more we know up front the fewer ‘could be’ answers you’ll get.
Not to long ago we often heard ‘waste the first shot off target so you don’t have that initial flyer’. That may work for target shooting but is not acceptable for hunting so your answer may be a little more complex than just one possible solution.
The best answer may be a combination of two potential solutions.
Just to throw out a few possibilities:
used rifle, burrs in the cocking slot
used rifle, dirt or debris in the hammer area
improper, inadequate or excessive lubrication
operational problem, excited and load pellet backwards (I did it more than once)
operational problem, breech not fully seated on the top hat (yep, me too)
operational problem, breech o-ring bad
operational problem, just pumped up the PSI to top it off, the adapter that screws on to the valve often screws with the valve seat
Welcome! I had that same problem. WOK suggested that I crank up the hammer pre-load, that’s the velocity adjustment wheel. It’s not really a velocity adjuster, it’s a tension adjustment for the hammer spring preload. If there is not enough perload, the hammer can bind for the first shot. I cranked it up and that problem went away.
Some guys clean and polish the inside of their frame. That will allow the hammer to travel smoother and not need as much hammer preload. I was too lazy to do that. I polished and adjusted the top hat and have been happy with it for years. All I do with mine is plink cans with the kids and kill rats. It’s very effective for that!
Have you looked through the Quick Reference section? There is a ton of great info there.
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Wock’s trigger guard, YES! MadDog Stock YES! Sorry Savage, no room for wild ass guesses here. Either you know, or you don’ 😉 😆 t!