Q:

Help .20 barrel super tight, low fps?

Got my .20 Leshiy barrel, but I’m a bit confused. First thing I noticed is that the barrel is really tight, had to push the pellet in harder than the .25 barrel. Also the gun is setup for 28fpe in .25 and with .20 is shoots 20fpe. That’s 706fps with 25gr kings and 810fps with 13gr .20 pellets. Is this normal? 28fpe in .20 should be around 930fps

EdGun

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quote Parrots:

Regarding the pellets be more difficult to seat, i have found this to also be the case with the .20, while all the other 3 seat very easily.

Since you are the second person noticing this, anybody able to measure the bore precisely?

Could be that the bore is very close to the tollerances and this could cause higher friction…..

(But here we are leaving the domain of “business as usual” and expert advice is needed…)

quote Cricket:

Ok. I might just tune it down to 12 fpe and try to recreate Parrots results

I would have to thank my high mag scope for those results, the Leshiy was factory set, just the HST adjusted. Did not play about with the reg or gun at all when i first got the Leshiy.

Regarding the pellets be more difficult to seat, i have found this to also be the case with the .20, while all the other 3 seat very easily.

quote keyser soze:

Here is another recommendation when swapping barrels. If your gun is shooting perfect and you’re happy with the group size mark the top of the barrel with a sharpie or something. I have noticed slight POI shifts when rotating the barrel. It’s not the end of the world, you just need to re-zero your gun. If you mark the settings and barrel position you’ll never have to touch your windage.

Good idea, exactly what i did, little holes with a small drill bit on the barrels and another on the gun, always line this up :8:

quote keyser soze:

Here is another recommendation when swapping barrels. If your gun is shooting perfect and you’re happy with the group size mark the top of the barrel with a sharpie or something. I have noticed slight POI shifts when rotating the barrel. It’s not the end of the world, you just need to re-zero your gun. If you mark the settings and barrel position you’ll never have to touch your windage.

This is pretty common but it also means that the barrel is “so so” and will be deadly accurate only at zeroing distance.

All the ballistic calculations for the scope settings or holdover, holdunder estimations will be inaccurate.

This is why anyway you got to know your rifle :smilen:

Though this happening on an only 25 cm long barrel is “matter of concern”.

:2cents:

Here is another recommendation when swapping barrels. If your gun is shooting perfect and you’re happy with the group size mark the top of the barrel with a sharpie or something. I have noticed slight POI shifts when rotating the barrel. It’s not the end of the world, you just need to re-zero your gun. If you mark the settings and barrel position you’ll never have to touch your windage.

Ok, Thanks!

I don’t think there is any fault at all….

You simply cannot compare the figures…

When you fine tune you consider barrel length, pellet weight, regulator and hst combination in order to have the best accuracy (speed and trajectory) and ft/lbs and shot count is only an outcome. You can still sacrifice trajectory for shotcount but that completely depends on you.

When you just swap caliber/barrel you certainly don’t have any longer the fine tuning you had before for that specific caliber and this is normal.

If you want optimum performance for the new caliber you have to redo the tuning process, there is no way around.

Normally the pellet is part of the tuning process because the fine tuning is for one specific pellet and it is normally the pellet you found out it groups best.

Efficient quick and dirty caliber swap does not exist but it is already a great thing that your weapon allows you to do this instead of being obliged to purchase multiple guns.

Pippo, so are you saying this is not normal when going down in caliber? And that it is the pellet’s fault? Just wondering, because I have never switched caliber like this but I thought the fps would be up more.

I don’t think pellet selection is limited, my local store has .20 JSB, H&N, Predator, Samyang, Webley, Benjamins and Premiers. Lots to choose from but I doubt anything will beat the JSB

I got bored shooting pcps because of being “boring one hole accurate”….

Don’t really know what you expect from yours ….

Only thing you can’t fix is if your barrel doesn’t like the pellet and pellet selection in .20 is limited… :2cents:

Thanks for the help. I will run some full chrony strings as it is (haven’t touchead anything including HST since last I tuned it) And see what I think, then I will do some accuracy tests. Hopefully I will be pleased.

No need to turn it into a pea shooter. The 23 gen will fly well at 815

Ok. I might just tune it down to 12 fpe and try to recreate Parrots results

First, make sure the barrel is not installed backward. It is easy to do. Secondly, you need to re-tune the gun for the pellet. Just because the gun pushed pellet X a certain speed doesn’t mean the pellet Y will do the same. I was playing with my Leshiy the two days ago, I had the gun set to shoot the .25 cal at 780, I put the .177 caliber in the gun, didn’t change the settings, and I got 815 with the 10.34 gun. The gun was loud and inefficient. So I called my airgun therapist (wingman) and cried on his shoulder on how now my Leshiy was loud and using too much air. I think I said something like “I should have just left it alone, it was perfect.” So Phil talked me down from jumping and gave a suggestion of changing the regulator setting. So Now the gun is efficient, quiet and perfect again.

If you want the gun to perform it’s best, I recommend tuning it properly when you change calibers.

Oh and I agree about the .20 caliber

Pippo, I mostly agree with your HO, but interested in shot/power combo of Leshiy since it is such a small air tube volume.

It is an expensive pellet for sure.

-L

@Cricket:

I think you should tune your gun for the speed and trajectory you want to achieve and shotcount and energy will be consequently depending on caliber….

The smaller the caliber and the higher the energy you want to achieve, the lower the shotcount you will get…. (but this is obvious…)


@lars-atx
:

IMHO the .20 is useless in PCPs because normally you have plenty of power to tune and can have a nice trajectory also in .22

Probably in a springer if you want more punch and a flat trajectory the .20 still makes sense.

But the .20 is expensive …..

:2cents:

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