Hold technique…Yes, It’s me testing again
I have found that holding the rifle firm, especially between my shoulder and cheek,
almost to the point of muscle shake, produces (at least for me) the best results….
I used a target with bullseye circles just for Buzzcat…..Just jerkin your chain Buzz…. :18
2 shots to figure mildot holdover and tweek the windage, then 5 shots at the bullseye….
And that completes our testing for the season ladies and gentlemen….You can pick up
my CD at the rear as you exit…..
Thank you and good night….
All Replies
group at 65yds….I would have surely bet against that….
So, I can now see where a light grip with pressures in
the right place could do as well as trying to completely
isolate the gun with a lot of equal pressure from 3 sides…..
Interesting…This will take some practice…..
Now your talking!
Don’t worry we all have to figure out.
Take your time, mamcrackkin’. Learn to master a hold that will yield to you consistent accuracy. Yes, you are correct about applying pressure to certain parts of the rifle. Guns are just like women in that you have to give them the right kind off TLC to get what you want. And if you are faithful to her (or your gun), she will reward you with “one-holers” time and time again. 😆
Well I put the gun up on the tripod. I supported the
handgrip with a firm pad, and with just enough pressure
between my thumb and pointer finger I pull the trigger…..
I was amazed at how well it worked…It shot about a 1.5″
group at 65yds….I would have surely bet against that….
So, I can now see where a light grip with pressures in
the right place could do as well as trying to completely
isolate the gun with a lot of equal pressure from 3 sides…..
Interesting…This will take some practice…..
Thanks spinj…I will surely give that a run through…..
It’s my belief that a decently-made pellet can be shot accurately if the gun it is fired from allows it to fly straight. And it can shoot straight if the gun also is allowed – by the shooter, of course – to move back straight upon recoil. Believe me if you don’t yet that even PCPs, especially our Condors and Talons, have slight recoil that is enough to prevent a pellet from flying straight. The key to having it fly so is to hold the gun in a manner that only allows it to recoil straight back and not side to side (as is reflective in mamcrackin’s initial groups). If a rifle is prevented from recoiling back freely, the harmonics/vibrations within the rifle will find another direction to escape – most of the time they do so in a means which makes the gun move laterally. Thus, it is important for the shooter to find the exact point in his/her rifle and hold it in a way which will grant perfect front to back motion only.
I strongly conceive that any (good) pellet is accurate in a good quality airgun. The reason why shooters see that one pellet is less accurate than the other is because of the uncontrolled firing cycle of the gun of that given pellet. To me, every pellet gives a unique firing characteristic to the rifle it is shot from. And the key to “making them accurate,” so to speak, is to nail the type of hold the pellets want the shooter to give the rifle they are being shot out of.
Now, I’ve noticed that with all of my rifles including my TX200 springer, first off, they like to be held at their balanced point. Then, with my forestock hand at such point on my rifles, I grip their side very firmly (almost a deathlock-type grip) and simultaneously pull them down to my palm hard. Contrarily, the trigger hand give the rifles a very light hold and also controls the pressure of their buttstock to my shoulder. It is very important that the buttstock of the rifle not be pressed firmly into the shoulder. It should instead “kiss” the shoulder. This will give it the opportunity to move back freely and not hit against the shoulder at all during the firing cycle (believe me that even PCPs exert such slight force enough to do this). So, the forestock hand prevents the gun from moving side to side but also gives it the opportunity to move only backwards, and the light hold of the trigger hand and the minute clearance that the buttstock has from the shoulder will enable to gun to move back only.
Try giving this technique a shot. You might find that almost all quality-made pellets can yield accurate groups. Good luck to you!
Regards,
Tony
One thing is for sure…We have a ton of trouble shooting experience if it doesn’t….In the end …IT WILL!!!
I hope my Condor prints that good at range!!! 😀
Regards,
Tony
Last one I promise…..100yds using the 4th mildot for holdover and aiming at the top left dot on the paper…..
Not that it really matters at 79.7 yds but the 2 shots low right and the 2
extreme left were test shots to see where I was mildot wise at that distance.
The rest were aimed with 3.5 mildot hold over….100yd is next…
This thing is sick….
Regards,
Tony
Exactly….There are actually 3 forces I am applying….Right force with my cheek, Equal left force with my shoulder and a rearward force with my last 3 fingers on the grip…..Left hand is basically doing nothing but riding on top of the tri-rail…..
of pulling it snug into the shoulder…
Regards,
Tony
If so, those are a couple of damned fine groups, compadre!
I’m sure there are others somewhere that can say they’ve done better, but I’d be pleased as punch with myself if I put five rounds on a quarter at that distance.
For that matter, I’d be pleased as punch with myself if I actually had that kind of distance to shoot, period.
Just don’t tell me you shot those freehand, you’ll make me cry. 😆
Well thanks Buzzcat..Yea it’s 65yds….Gonna try the 79yd spot this afternoon for kicks…..
I would say that I am please as punch with this rifle…
I have never in my life had anything that shot like a laser and would have
bet my bottom dollar 6 months ago that my Benjamin 342 was the baddest
thing on the planet…I am in Awe…..
Pleased as punch indeed…..Makes me want to run
around naked like the CoolAid man….
Hey Mam, IIRC, you’re shooting at 65 yards, yes?
If so, those are a couple of damned fine groups, compadre!
I’m sure there are others somewhere that can say they’ve done better, but I’d be pleased as punch with myself if I put five rounds on a quarter at that distance.
For that matter, I’d be pleased as punch with myself if I actually had that kind of distance to shoot, period.
Just don’t tell me you shot those freehand, you’ll make me cry. 😆
“From the mouths of babes” (or in this case hunky airgun studs from the Southwest) comes the pearl.
While cranking on a frail frame like the AF is generally a bad idea, consistency is the key. If you could hold it firm as a vice, you’d shoot the best groups of all. If you can apply the same force to the stock each time (especially if it’s mostly between shoulder and cheek and not ‘tweaking’ the gun) you should be ahead.
On the bench, when looking for smallest groups, I hold all rifles (air and firearms) far less firm than is appropriate in the field. Some very seriousl bench rest shooters contact the gun only with thumb and forefinger (pinching the back of the trigger guard and the trigger) on triggers of a few ounces. Great small groups, but won’t work in the field. The compromise I use is enough strong side muscle to control the gun and minimal week hand support (‘open palm’ in favor of springers).
I think the best plan is to listen to expert advice, try everything that’s reasonable, and use what works for you. Stay objective, look for the smallest groups that fit the kind of shooting you want to do.
Tiny little holes in paper close together are nice from some angles, but unless you hunt ground squirrels with dots and rings painted on their heads from a bench with stool and range flags, it might not suit all needs.
Doug Owen
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Well I am divorced spinj so that vision won’t work for me…No wonder I am strangling the gun to make it act right…..lol
I’ll have to rethink this whole mind set…..