How to install hammer slap mod ?
Hi there , I just received my hammer slap mod from tony for my condor SS and I was wondering how hard is it to install ? Is there anything you should look out for while trying to install the hammer mod ? I received no instructions on how to install it correctly .
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I do have the newer style condor SS with spin loc tank . I see there is several ways on doing this mod . I would like to do the easiest way where I do not have to worry about other parts being installed wrong because they were not installed the right way . I know you need to pay attention on this but simpler the better . Thank you for all the help ! Hey Oakey congrats on getting married I hope everything went well with wedding !
I have the SS and installed Tony’s hammer w/mod. The new hammer replaces both the old hammer and the weight behind it. I removed the barrel. Dyotat’s method would be easier. The SS ‘s barrel was difficult to remove and I wound up shearing off the head of the PW screw during reassembly. The PW screw is plastic for some unknown reason. Going from the breach sounds easier but removing the barrel is fairly straight forward. There are 4 screws on the bottom and 2 on the side plus the power wheel screw. My only difficulty was finding a way to grasp the barrel to get it out. It does not slide out because of the oring on the bushing. You will find that the hammer noise is significantly reduced with the new hammer installed.
You have the old frame. New frame only has 1 set screw and it is on the outside on the left. No need to take off the grip.
There are 2 set screws. One visible once the grip is removed. The second is forward of the aforementioned, under the trigger assembly plate.
If you are careful to not lose ANY springs while unscrewing the trigger assembly plate, this is the easier way.
Once complete…
Reverse.
See:
Once you break it free you should be able to spin the collar with your fingers. I just ordered a wrench Monday to see what it is. I don’t even use one right now. Just put it in with my fingers and get it to where it is snug. Then rotate it back a touch. Then push on the collar and rotate the tank to tighten it. Then tighten set screw.
Honestly that would seem to be the easier way as there is less to remove by removing the tank and spin lock collar, cocking knob, breech, hammer and hammer weight however to take a part that spin lock tank with the tool AF supplies is no day in the park I have removed my tank a few times and took the breech out this way to me it is just as easy to take it a part from the other end by removing the end cap and barrel. But if you are confident in the removal of the tank the collar with that tool then do so. I hate messin with that fandanggled instrument.
If its a newer gun with the newer spin-loc just remove the collar and the cocking knob and hammer will come out back end
I am not sure how the baffle system in the SS is set up but when you take it apart pay close attention to how it comes a part and put it back in that order. You will remove the hammer weight and the hammer and just drop Tony’s Slap hammer in. I would lube it with Silicone grease.
Have Fun
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I would go from the breach. I have never removed my tank, but have watched YouTube videos where they did, and it looks pretty straight forward. Then just unscrew the cocking knob. I wish I had thought of it when I replaced my hammer.
If you do go from the other end though. I removed all 7 screws. Removed the end cap. Then a thin washer and 3 baffles. Remove barrel. I wound up grasping it through the power wheel slot with hemostats to push it down enough to grasp the barrel. When you remove the barrel the PW, spring, weight, and hammer slide out. Put in your new hammer with the rubber oring side towards the breach. Put in the spring, PW, and barrel. Align the power wheel so you can put its screw back in. Align the bushings so you can put one of the side screws in. I used the baffles to push the barrel in far enough. Push against the spring until you can put a screw in the side into the bushing. You may need to use a small drill bit, ice pick etc to align the holes. (I put the PW screw in first and wound up shearing its head off.) Put in the other side screw and PW screw. Put in the 2 rearmost screws on the bottom. Remove baffles and put in the last bottom screw (except for the end cap). The baffles are held tight between this screw and the end cap. Put the baffles and washer in. Align the end cap and push it flush while putting in its screw.
This was my first disassembly of an Air Force rifle. If someone with more experience can improve(or fix) the above, or knows an easier way to remove the SS Barrel please comment.