just some condor numbers, 24 and 12 inchers
2800 psi to start with both barrels, top hat…. yep right about there ❓
All tests done with Kodiaks
24 incher…………………………………12 incher
1083 – 8.9………………………………..201 – 304 😯
1096 – 7.9………………………………..720
1076 – 6.9………………………………..734
1025 – 5.5………………………………..903 – 8.9
1050………………………………………889 – 5.9
1078………………………………………895
1078………………………………………881
1083………………………………………894
1067 – 4.10………………………………892 – 7.11
1065 – 3.13………………………………885 – 6.9
1065………………………………………874 – 5.9
1057………………………………………864 – 3.11
1070………………………………………868
1070………………………………………858
1073………………………………………850
1065………………………………………845 – started raining again 😈
1057
1057
1045
1034
1037
1024
1006
1002
995
993
981
977
973 end pressure 1900 lbs
what do you all thin, and what is everyone else getting, especially with the 12 incher
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GTBJ , I bought the lights for my crono and never looked back. I use a power inverter and a battery if outside. I have gotten very few error message since getting the lights. In the basement I could not get 4 out 10 shots to register, tried shutting off flouresents and even using flashlights. lol Whats with this blobnob valve? how much and where do I get one???
Buy a blodnob valve 😀
If you can get some whale sperm that would be the ultimate in lubrication.
O.K., O.K….. but it’s not metal to metal, it’s derlin to metal 😛
but on a serious note is it a bad thing? I’ve always seemed to have good luck with it, and it dries completely and seems to be slicker than a frozen witches tit
please enlighten me old wise one 😉
Please, please stop using silicone to lubricate metal to metal contact! I don’t know what gets rid of the silicone but but try and find it. Just use regular oil (or snot or graphite…anything but silicone) to lube metal to metal interfaces. Please, just trust me on this. Otherwise, you’ll have to suffer through demonstrations, videos, questions from all over and an assload of uninformed yet expert opinion!
A little bit of silicone to condition orings is fine.
My problem was that I wasn’t making sure the breach was slid against the top hat and that was making the ‘hit’ different each time. Even had a few bounce off the target (cardboard)… 😆
I tried to equalize two tanks this weekend… Damn it’s tough… Made the TH gap larger and the velocity went down… Crank down the powerwheel and the velocity jumps up… Appears to defy physics… 😕
What lube are you using for the breach orings, i’m looking to lube up the barrel this weekend… 😛 😆
yes it dose seem to go against the laws, this is one reason I never wanted to get a chrony, I was better off not knowing, all I knew is it was fast and accurate 😆
with the heaver spring in it I was getting higher numbers and using less air……just doesn’t make sense to me, but I guess the chrony and gage don’t lie.
I lock the breach over to the right every time but I will pay a bit more attention to it and perhaps put a new taped hole in it for the knob so it locks on the top hat and frame better, I know there is play in it. I’m also going to try to seat each pellet with the beeman to see if that helps any.
for lube I use good old divers silicon, and I spray 100% silicone down the frame and let it dry before reassembling it
I had the same thing going on…
My problem was that I wasn’t making sure the breach was slid against the top hat and that was making the ‘hit’ different each time. Even had a few bounce off the target (cardboard)… 😆
I tried to equalize two tanks this weekend… Damn it’s tough… Made the TH gap larger and the velocity went down… Crank down the powerwheel and the velocity jumps up… Appears to defy physics… 😕
What lube are you using for the breach orings, i’m looking to lube up the barrel this weekend… 😛 😆
defiantly getting closer, here are todays numbers
new hammer and spring, p/w at 4.9
930
939
948
913
940
904
932
927
954
921
936
e
915
904
new hammer stock spring, p/w 5.10
914
915
945
939
941
943
901
936
909
923
e
916
896
899
899
901
I’m thinking when my gage points at 3000 it is really 2800 or even less possibly because it wont go back too 0 it starts off from 200 psi, those first 3 shots in the 500’reds were with the p/w set at 3.13 not the 4.13 that is a mis print 😳
when I cranked the wheel up to were it usually is the power starts dropping like it’s already on the back side of the bell which also makes me think the gauge is wrong, but I don’t know just seems that 3 soft shots like that shouldn’t get me to the back side of the curve???
I did put a heaver hammer in this afternoon, but the sky was too dark and stormy to get a reading on the chrony, and after 4 tanks by hand today I had enough by the time the clouds broke 😆
Too much fill my man, after shot 3 or 5 or whatever, the pressure in the tank is too high, thats why the fps increases after a few shots.
You are finding the sweet spot.
I would think, and correct me if I am wrong, go for a 2800 fill with your current set-up 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄
If ya put a heavier hammer in there, well thats a diff. story.
SAW
Start fill at 2700. Maybe clean hammer and frame out without any lubes. Of course make sure the breech o-rings aren’t sloppy. Might check pellet seating depth and make sure it’s consistent.
so I repolished the stem, checked and lubed the all the orings and this was the sting I just shot. I started at 3000 according to my gage which I’m starting to think is off
521 – 4.13
569
582
950 – twisted up to 8.9 and left it there
883
920
583 ❓ ❓ ❓
e-1
e-1
922
923
922
e-1
e-1
e-1 😈
891
893
890
876
883
something is still going on with it jumping up and down, any suggestions?
I want some 😀
Also, surely adjusting the power wheel during that string has queered the results?
none, I just want the power up their for the 12 incher, and ya messing with the p/w is basically experimenting trying to figure out what is going on, I’ll try to get some better ones today
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Slayer, fix your fucking avatar size.