Q:

Matador R3M v/s R3 single shot

While the R3M has not yet hit the shores of all countries there is a lot of talk and excitement amongst customers awaiting their new Xmas presies…
The first batch of .22 R3M’s have however been dispersed around the greater Europe, the middle east, Asia and pacific countries, and there are a few now in the hands of forum members willing to share their gripes and joys in relation to the new multi shot action.

The R3M has the same inherent accuracy as the R3 and shows no better or worse accuracy than the single shot R3 at long and short range grouping tests I have done. This is where the comparison should stop as they are the same rifle but different in nature. The Multi shot will suit some peoples needs but others like myself will always prefer the single shot.

There have been remarks about the action feeling “Much rougher than the single shot action” this however is not entirely correct.
Cycling the Multi shot action with the mag removed is very smooth, it cocks the hammer with the same amount of exertion as the single shot breech. It is not until you fit the magazine that you will feel the added friction caused by the indexing parts of the action which is only to be expected.
So indexing the mag may feel rougher than cocking the single shot but it can not be compared as the single shot does not have this feature. If you are comparing the two actions cocking just the hammer they feel the same.
The R3M’s bolt however sits further back and has a slightly longer draw to the single shot which takes a little getting a custom to if you are used to a single shot with the shorter draw.


In some cases (like my own) you will have to change your technique of cycling the multi shot as it is a very different machine. With my Single shot R3, I cock it by hooking my index finger over the bolt and placing my thumb on the rear of the action I draw the bolt back by squeezing my index finger closed.

To close the breach I just press the bolt in the centre with my thumb and then roll it off to the right to lock the bolt down all in one smooth motion. It is fast and effortless. The bolt handle on my early model R3 has less of a curve in it and extends outward a little further which I also prefer to the newer one but again that just personal preference.

With the R3M it takes a good grip (two fingers) on the bolt handle and while holding the rifle firmly with one hand it requires the usual smooth draw to cock the hammer but needs and additional ¼” sharper snappy movement to index the magazine to index the next pellet.
The draw is a little too long for me to use my thumb as an anchor on the back of the action for leverage unlike the single shot action.

I wouldn’t say this action is rougher than any other multishot PCP action it just requires a longer draw and a little more inertia at the end of its stroke to index the mag which feels foreign and a little forceful if you have got used to a single shot action. After a day or so behind the R3M like anything else it becomes more familiar and its little quirks become second nature.
Comparing the multishot R3M action to the R3 single shot is a mistake. They are very different beasts, some would say it’s like comparing are apples and oranges.

The internals of the new R3M are as smooth as silk and well polished on all the contacting friction points, they come shipped with a healthy coating of Russian grease on all moving parts but to be honest is not great grease. There is absolutely no need to polish or file anything in this action as I have seen some people doing on a brand new action…Like a new engine the action will have a run in period where all contact areas will eventually wear against each other until the are square with the opposing surface and as long as the metals don’t “pick up or mar” they will remain smooth and polished. It is a good idea to leave the sub standard factory grease in the action for at least 1500 shots (like running in oil in a new engine) to let the metals run in before a full strip, clean and replace the grease with a good quality Moly paste with at least 50% moly content which will make this action feel 100% better than it ever has previously.

There are far more friction inducing points in the R3M Multishot breech than the single shot R3 which only has the bolt slipping within its bore and the hammer cocking sliding wedge block which has a small side loading (longitudinal) as the hammer is dragged into the cocked rearward position.

The R3M has a different hammer cocking setup which comes with one advantage of the cocking pin attached to the bolt is actually a free spinning bearing surface which aids toward a smoother feel while cocking the hammer.

There is however multiple other side loadings related to the indexing of the magazine.
There are four different metals used in the production of these parts, stainless steel, duralium, brass and high carbon steel, (probably 4130 or 4140). All of these materials have their place but all have varying grades of frictional properties and respond to lubes very differently.
The first generation of the single shot R3s had the steel breach and a steel and eventually a stainless steel bolt which although had a rough machined bore for the bolt to ride in it responded VERY well to Moly paste and it is still by far my preferred action.
My early moly laden single shot breach cocks like a brisk jog on an ice rink and requires almost no effort at all, easily achieved with just my thumb and index finger.
I really hope Ed continues to offer the single shot action and manages to fit a few into future production schedules as its clear there will always be a demand in the market for them.

The R3M action is a very different animal, alloy (no matter what grade) is a little more “sticky” when combined with a harder steel and with the stainless steel bolt running in an alloy bore it will never be as slippery as steel on steel with burnished in moly.
Moly paste is the best way to prevent marring and get the best out of this situation even in the later single shot R3 alloy breeches.

The strip down:
Most of you have already seen the odd pic floating around the web of the R3M breech but I will attempt to describe it in a little more detail here.

I will start with the mag..

First question asked was “will it fit the Polymags?” Yes it will, with plenty of room to spare..

In my opinion the .22 16gr Polys are too light for the matador and don’t shoot well unless the reg pressure is dropped and hammer spring tuned to get their velocity around the 850-890fps, but there is no real reason to stray from the 18.13gr JSB pellet that the twist rate in the Matador barrel was designed for.
The polys will never be as accurate but still fit a niche for a close range hunting pellet I suppose.
However in the .25cal the weight of the Polymags is 26gr which is nearer to the 25.4gr of JSB Kings so it is a welcomed alternate diverse diet for the quarter bore Matador that generally shoots very well to 50-60 meters and is a devastating g hunting pellet at those ranges.

The mag itself aids in pellet consistency by sizing all the pellets skirts to the same uniform size as the pass through it, the heads all fit loosely in it but are held in place with the two surrounding O rings.

I tested the action for pellet deformation and damage by cycling them into the chamber then pushing them back out the way they went in with a braising rod from the muzzle end and even with some very vigorous cycling there was no notable damage other than a very small dimple in the rear of the pellet from the pellet probe which will not and hasn’t had any effect accuracy.
The small ball bearings that hold the mag in place and locate it on the indexing detent are very tightly sprung requiring a firm shove to fit and remove so there is no chance of one falling out and getting lost.
They hold 10 pellets in .22cal and 9 in .25cal

The pellet probe no longer has the tiny dual O rings fitted to it, instead it is smooth and tapered to assist proper mag to bore alignment and concentric pellet feeding.

The Breach sealing O ring is now located in the breach block like the Air arms design only its captured behind a brass bush held in place small grub screw on the underside.
The O ring is substantially thicker and should last longer than the ones fitted on the R3 probes.

The mag indexing cam is steel and the inside edges are polished like a mirror which in turn run on a rolling brass bearing on the hammer cocking pin, all these parts glide very well and like I said earlier the only resistance comes from the mag itself when the cam is engaging it, it just takes a little sharp pull at the end of the stroke to index the next shot. (Uncle Hoot will add an intelligent quotation of self pleasure on that sentence Im sure 😉 )

I wont go on about the workings of the mechanism itself as there is plenty of pics and vids now available on how it functions but I will add I am very fond of its simplicity.
It could very easily be stripped in the field with a couple of Allen wrenches if you ever needed with the lack of small parts and springs etc present in most other makes of multishot PCPs, there is no fear of any small spring loaded parts vacating at 100mph on disassembly never to be seen again..

Well done Ed and congrats on another very well thought out functional piece of engineering to be released from the Edgun factory… the simplicity and rugged nature of this product yet again follows true with your Russian weapon makers spirit. :thumb:

“All that is complex is not useful. All that is useful is simple.” – Mikhail Kalashnikov

EdGun

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Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 42 total)

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very imformative review. Thanks a lot.

Here are two: Owner of Hurricane i know personally. The owner of Pro Gunner i know thru a few orders that i´ve made and he has come thru with flying colors every time i´ve dealt with him.
Never mind the “spring grease” part – it´s Molybden Grease.
http://luftvapen.e-butiken.se/vapenvard/oljafett/fjaderfett-storburk

http://www.progunner.eu/pgultramfjaderfett-p-569.html?cPath=81_87_173

This is also a good product for those parts that reguire need a good,slick OIL where grease/paste can´t be used. His own mix of PTFE and all kinds of goo:

http://www.progunner.eu/pgultralubeluftvapenolja-p-570.html?cPath=81_87_173

Both owners speak English – or at least “Swenglish” = English with thick Swedish accent.

Other good sources are BAR in UK (Blackpool Air Rifles), Welsh Willy in UK or any good machine shop in France should be able to get it for you in big tubes.

quote Sir Ville:

Merou – you aren´t,by coincidence, Mika Malmiwaara from MWM Trading ?

And the Moly Paste Lube can be bought from any airgun dealer worth the name,as an example. Widely used on springer guns.

Hi Sir Ville,
I’m not the MIKA you think sorry.
In France there isn’t any shops for air gun.
Because the law before is less of 10 joules, I think 9,5 joules.
I heard now the new law is 16 joules in 2013.
The only shop I know is armurerie de Auxerre, but it’s not near to my location.
So I preferd to speak with you the specialists of airgun.
If you’ve got one adress for the good ” MOLY PASTE LUBE” it was nice for me.
Thank you Sir Ville.
Best regards,

Merou – you aren´t,by coincidence, Mika Malmiwaara from MWM Trading ?

And the Moly Paste Lube can be bought from any airgun dealer worth the name,as an example. Widely used on springer guns.

Thanks Wingman for your super Training verry useful.

Have you got a link to buy the fabulous product : “moly paste lub”

I want to do the same operation with mine.

Thanks

Mika

Wingman, your reviews, information and clear pics are wonderful; thank you. Your info is better than any instruction manual I’ve seen! I’m waiting on a .25 R3M and am glad you detailed suggested maintenance with enough attention that beginners and pros can see and learn about these guns. I was particularly happy to hear about the mag not deforming, but sizing, the pellets. There seems to be a pattern that indexing mags outperform spring-driven mags, whether it’s Air Arms, Cricket, etc. Plus, with the indexing type, one can usually load the mag with the first chamber empty, for safe transport.

Myself, I prefer mags when hunting. Many times a second squirrel was taken immediately after the first (it’s buddy jumps onto a tree for a moment). If an animal moves and your “perfect” aim is off, it also allows fastest second chances with usually less movement. Larger animals, like groundhogs, often benefit from a second shot to kill them quickly, before they crawl under a house to expire!

If you feel like doing it, I’d love to see some .25 groups of Polymags vs. JSBs (like you did w/ the pistol .177). Even a quick description of actual group sizes/ranges would help. Thanks!

Its probably a little premature on this action but I have documented a full strip down and re-lube with moly for you all to see.
This is something I do on all my PCPs not just Edguns, all actions benefit from this treatment of moly paste and it will not only make the action much smoother to use but it will also protect the parts against wear for many years.

So first up the action needs to be cocked and removed by the two cap screws in the rear of the receiver, the bolt has to scallops out of it to access them freely.

Once slipped rearward to remove the action can be stripped and cleaned of all grease with prepsol or something similar..

Under close inspection all my parts are still free from burs and remain highly polished so I would only polish parts that were showing drag marks or burs if needed. These don’t so Ill just add the moly paste.

Once cleaned I take a cotton tip and sparingly apply the molly paste to all contact points. The molly is burnished in by rubing the two parts together with force until there is no more stickiness felt between parts, the moly actually works better as it burnishes in the more you use the action so work everything hard as you reassemble it.



Finally before refitting the action you need to put a good helping of molly paste on the hammer and cocking pin as this is where a lot of the friction is generated.


Once its all back together I work the action vigorously to burnish the molly into the surface of the various parts and then wipe any excess from the bolts shaft and mag area etc. Moly is very messy black stuff to use so use it sparingly.

So the million dollar question, “how does it feel now?” :8: Super Slick! :8:

quote Pippo:

Hi WNZ,

thank you.

Hadn’t thought at all to relube the trigger unit with moly grease but I will definitely give it a try.

ATB 😀

Absolutely, moly paste is the best lube for any high friction area.. the trigger defiantly benefits from a touch of it.
I just put a dab on the end of a fine screwdriver and apply it to the following points. Just beware, once its worked in you may well have to re set the adjustment screw/screws on your trigger.


Hi WNZ,

thank you.

Hadn’t thought at all to relube the trigger unit with moly grease but I will definitely give it a try.

ATB 😀

Thanks. Can not wait to see it.

quote charlie101:

Very nice write up. Quick question here. Is possible to make a single shot tray for R3M? just like to enjoy loading pellet one by one sometimes.

Thankyou and yes it would be a relitively simple job to mill up a block of alloy to act as a single feed breech. It could mount like the mag does on the ball detent at the front of the mag and protrude slight from the right side of the action just enough to grab a hold to remove it. You would probably have to select the downward position on the cam disengaging switch that free spools the mag for the cam to be out of the way when cocking..
If I get time in the next few days ill mill something up and give it a go..

I might ask that to Ernest. 😉

quote charlie101:

Very nice write up. Quick question here. Is possible to make a single shot tray for R3M? just like to enjoy loading pellet one by one sometimes.

Very nice write up. Quick question here. Is possible to make a single shot tray for R3M? just like to enjoy loading pellet one by one sometimes.

How the left side level works? I found here.
http://www.fieldtarget.cz/clanky-55/recenze/vetrovky/edgun-matador-multi

quote Pippo:

Hi,

thank you very much for this great write up as already said by many 😀 .

May I ask you if in your personal experience the R3M cycling effort did get any smoother overtime or is the suggested re-lubing with some “good moly” grease after a while just an idea?

Honestly this is the first time I hear about a “run in” period of the cycling mechanism of any PCP but maybe it’s just me.

Anyway considering the high standards of Ed’s products, I would highly recommend him to avoid to use poor Russian grease on his high end products with the risk to have bad reviews for just 1 or 2 cents of higher cost for better grease and even worse with the risk to ruin and wear out the internals.

Thank you anyway for taking your time to explain us why there is this additional effort to cycle the R3M (different metals, etc). May I ask you how you would rate this “cycling effort” compared to other pcps?

Thanks in advance and best regards
P

The four R3Ms I imported were not rough to begin with, as I explained in the review they just have more friction creating contact points than the single shot so cant and shouldn’t be compared. All things mechanical have a run in period from new.. the key is good maintenance to prevent premature wear before it happens. It is not a good idea to use moly before it is properly run in as it impregnates the steel surfaces which would prevent it from running in properly. I liken it to someone rebuilding a car engine and putting in the best race proven engine oil money can buy and then they wonder why that engine is a lemon and never stops burning oil.. instead a running in oil should be used which is lighter and has lesser lube qualities which lets all mating parts run in together then after eg 1000 miles the oil is drained and replaced with a high quality oil to prevent further wear.. all machines are the same.

My R3M has fired about 1000 shots and is no better or worse than it was from new.. the change will come when I add the moly to the action and hammer as it did with my single shot R3, the change in friction is massive.. it is now very slick.. When I applied moly to the trigger group it would no longer cock and had to be re adjusted.. that should give you some ideas of molys lubricating qualities.

Its not a case of prefering my single shot action over the multi shot because of operational properties.. I have just always preferred single shot rifles for the same reasons as our brother Oldgoat..

For those of you that like multishots PCPs your going to love the new R3M..

Dear WNZ;

this is really nice information for all, i have been waiting for some one who has both versions to do this review, So, finally you did, thanks for taking times and write this review for us, we appreciate it.

Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 42 total)

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