Q:

My Edgun lost some velocity

Actually a lot. Almost 300 fps according to my chrony. I was worried because it sounded anemic and ran her through the chrony. It’s shooting at 600 fps with .25 cal jsbs. It was shooting at a steady 900 fps before. I checked the breech probe seals by placing a piece of tissue over the loading port and it did not indicate any blow by. I’m at a loss. I open to suggestions.

Thanks,

Gabe G.

EdGun

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Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 39 total)

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Hi Gabe.

Too bad that you didn’t shoot another 10 shots or so. I think that your Matador might have got over 1000 fps.

If I was doing the adjustments, I would start at ½ turn clockwise on the reg adjuster screw, turn the HST screw out at least 1 turn and go from there. Put the gun back together, shoot 1 shot, to set the regulator and then adjust the HST screw ¼ turn after each shot until you get the max speed. You will probably have to go back in for a little more reduction but, ½ turn is a good place to start.

My R2.5 25 cal long version shot the 25.4 grain JSBs at 1040 when I first got it. I had to turn the adjusting screw clockwise about 5/8 turn (if the reg started at the 12 O’clock position, I ended up at 7:30) to get the gun in the 880-890 range. Remember to mark the adjusting screw and reg housing, with a black marker, so you can keep track of where the reg was before you started adjusting it.

Also be absolutely sure that you have all of the air out of the gun before you remove the front plug!

I had a guy send me his Matador, asking if I could repair it. He thought that he had all of the air out, didn’t, and removed the front plug. He sent me a couple of pics of his hand, nothing was broken but, his hand was really swollen and black and blue. It hurt just to look at the pics! He had taken 2 of the 3 screws out and was removing the 3rd when the air pressure stripped the plugs 3rd hole’s threads out. I was able to clean the threads up, run a bottoming tap in deeper and use a longer bolt to get him going.

He was very lucky! There couldn’t have been much air left in the gun, things could have went really bad for him if there had been!

Since seeing his pics, I now loosen all three screws just enough to clear the bolt heads and look for any forward plug movement. The 3 bolts SHOULD still have enough threads left in the plug to keep it from blowing out. Seeing the plug move forward would really be a HOLY SHIT Moment! 😯

I got my tank topped off and recieved my Prochrono light kit. Now I can chrony my gun in the garage. Very convenient!!

I ran a shot string just to make sure I was still seeing the upward velocity trend. Sure enough it is a upward slope.
Here are some numbers. Beginning pressure was 180 bar or so and I stopped at about 155 bar.

21 shots
848
855
862
866
871
884
887
900
903
906
908
924
925
933
940
945
950
957
964
968
977
981

I got the point and stopped.

I plan on adjusting the reg per OG instructions this weekend.

OG,

Based on the figures above, is 1/3 to 1/2 turns clockwise on the reg and a full turn out on the HST still a good starting point? Let me know if you think I should do something different.

Thanks for all your suggestions and help,

Gabe G.

Hi Gabe.

I didn’t have any problems with the Teflon transfer port O ring. I finally replaced it with the proper brass O ring that should have come with the gun (Thanks F&D!). If you have a brass one, you won’t have any problems with it and should never need to put a Teflon O ring in there. If you do put one in, you need to open the ID of it up with a drill bit before you put it in.

As far a ordering O rings from McMaster Carr, they don’t have any Buna N “O” rings that are over 70 Duro on the Shore A hardness scale.

The only 6 “O” rings that I have ever needed for any of my 4 Matadors were: 5mm ID X 1.5 mm cross section 70 Duro (for the breech end of the barrel, your R3 doesn’t use one), 3mm ID X 1mm CS 90 duro (22 cal probe), 4mm ID X 1mm CS 90 Duro (25 cal probe), 8 mm ID X 1.5 CS 90 duro (reg bobbin), 12 mm ID X 2.5 mm CS 70 duro (reg bobbin) and 25 mm X 3 mm CS 70 duro (air valve/regulator housing).

You can get the 70 Duro O rings from McMaster Carr. The only place in the US that I could find that can get 90 duro O rings is:

ksauer@sealingspecialties.com Ken is a great guy to deal with! Unfortunately, they have a minimum order of $20 for each size but, $40 gets you 500 of each. IIRC, shipping was around $7.00.

When I do the group Matador O ring buys, I order everything from Ken.

You will wear out the cocking handle probe O rings pretty fast on the R3. You can find 70 duro O rings to put in there but, they won’t last any longer. The 90 duro O rings last a whole lot longer and just need a little silicone grease on them when they start to leak a little. I have worn out the reg’s bobbin O rings but, it took at least 15,000 shots to do so.

If you watch what you are doing and don’t nick/cut the reg housing O rings, I don’t think that you will ever need to replace them. Your gun should have come with 2 spare probe, 2 reg housing and 2 filling probe O rings. I am still using the fill probe that came with my R2.5 22 cal standard 4 years ago. I hooked it up to my SCBA tank’s hose and have been using it to fill all of my Matadors. The original o rings on it are still going strong. A little silicone grease every so often really helps them to last.

I’ll put it on my shopping list.

I might actually have some in my tool box. Need to check.

Now I have a plan and that makes me feel better.

I’ll post my finding asap.

Thanks,

Gabe G.

I’m sure you know but don’t forget a bit of anti-seize on each bolt. It makes a world of difference when you start going anal on the reg adjustment to get that 2-3 fps standard spread. Have fun

Thanks for the clarification OG!

I understand now. I’ll write up a report as soon as I finish. Hopefully I will earn an A 😀 I ordered a prochono digital light kit so I can work at night and in my garage.

Thanks teacher, I mean OG,

Gabe G.

P.S.

In one of your prior post you mentioned that you used a teflon oring on your R3’s .25 cal transfer port. How is it holding up? I’m thinking of ordering some from mcmasters along with some rubber orings when I begin working on my R3. I figured I better be ready and have everything I could possibly need. I hate it when I’m missing one little thing to complete a job…

Hi Gabe.

After you adjust the reg, turn the HST screw out at least 1 full turn, fill the gun and then start turning the HST screw in until you get the max starting speed. You need to look for the max speed after you have just recharged the gun. The HST and reg work in unison and the max speed that you can get will give you an idea about how the reg is set.

If you can’t quickly reach 910 (which I think is a little too high), you have turned the reg down a little too far. If you can turn the HST screw in and get speeds of over 910, you can/should turn the reg down a little. How much more it needs turned up/down depends on the max speed that you can get by just turning the HST screw in.

Keep turning the HST in until you get the max speed that you can get. It might take you 10-12 HST adjustments to get the max speed so, refill and see if the max speed is still the same.

Again, starting out at the max speed and then dropping means that the reg is too low. If your max starting speed slowly increases as you shoot a string, the reg is still set too high.

You are down to 100 pellets and out of air?

GOD, I couldn’t live like that! 😯 😆

thanks for the detail instructions OldGoat!

I did see your video and I probably go at it after I fill up my cf tank and get my order of JSB. I only have about 100 pellets left and I don’t think that will be enough to work with.

I’ve taken the gun apart but not the reg. I looks easy enough.

OG,

So after I adjust the reg 1/3 to 1/2 turns clockwise and turn out the HST at least 1 full turn, I should fill to 200 bar and see where the velocity is at. For example, if the velocity is at 880 fps for the first couple of shots and I am looking for 910 fps at 200 bar, should I turn in the HST or should I adjust the reg pressure up? I know it is better to actually do it and see but I just would like an idea if which technique will be better.

I will report what I discovered with full shot strings as soon as I get pellets , air, and some time to experiment.

I really appreciate your advise and knowledge. Thanks again OG!!!

Gabe G.

Oldgoat and Zocoloco, etc.

I am proud to be a part of the edgun community that includes you guys as members !

I very much enjoy reading your helpful posts – You make owning these guns more enjoyable and are probably helping more people than you realize when you post this information. And those that don’t need the help now are enjoying learning more about their guns this way.

Gabe, your regulator’s set pressure is too high. You have a few options.

Leave the HST where it is and have a very large bell curve for the fill.

Turn the HST screw in until a full charge starts out at 900-920 fps. You will still get a bell curve, up to 944 fps and then back down until the Matador goes off of the regulator.

You can turn the HST in and start at 940, that will give you a flat shot string but, you will waste a lot of air and you won’t get very many regulated shots.

I think that you will find that the JSB 25.4 grain Exact Heavies don’t like going faster than around 900-910 fps. Both of my 25 longs shoot a lot better at 880-890 fps than at 920-930 or higher. I found the same thing on my 22s. Kazzz does really great with his Matador shooting in the 930s but, he is indoors and doesn’t have to deal with any wind.

In real world conditions, with any breeze at all, anything over 900 fps the pellet will start to destabilize and you will get larger groups.

Your best option is to watch my R3 regulator adjusting video (NO, I am not bragging about that video, after watching the finished product, I think that I sounded like a GOON but, it was my 4th try and there wasn’t going to be a 5th)! JUST be ABSOLOTELY sure that you have ALL of the air out of the air tube before you remove the front plug!

Ed builds a great air gun that he has designed so that an owner can easily take it apart/ adjust/repair it. There has been a LOT of new Matador owners post here that were very apprehensive about removing the regulator. The first time is intimidating! After the first removal, it isn’t that bad and you might actually enjoy fine tuning the gun!

Most of the guys get it set good enough on the first or second try. The really anal guys end up pulling the reg 4-5 times and end up with unbelievable shot strings with max fps spreads that I haven’t seen any outer high end air gun match.

I absolutely understand that!

If that gun was mine, I would pull the reg, remove the reg’s locking screw (it is reverse threads and you need to turn it clockwise to remove it) and turn the reg’s pressure adjusting screw 1/3-1/2 turn clockwise. Use a fine tipped marker to mark reg’s adjusting screw and reg’s housing so you will know where your starting point was. I would go slightly less than ½ turn clockwise on my first try. That should get you very close.

After you get the gun back together, turn the HST out at least 1 full turn, refill the gun, you might have to cock the hammer to get the air valve to seal, shoot the gun thru a chrony and adjust the HST until you get the highest fps.

To get the flattest shot string, the HST and reg adjustments have to work in unison. I would look for a 880-890 fps starting point that gave me at least 65-70 shots with an extreme variation of no more than 6-8 fps until the gun came off of the reg.

If after adjusting the reg, you can’t get the gun to shoot 880-890 fps, no matter how much you turn the HST screw in, you have turned the reg down too far. If you can get it to start at 880-890 and then it slowly climbs up, to a higher speed, you might be able to live with the flatter bell curve. If not, you will need to turn the reg down a little more, turn the HST screw out 1 turn and try again.

I know that you don’t want to hear this! The first time IS intimidating and takes a while but: this 60 year old oldgoat can now do a reg R&R in under 20 min and be back shooting.

Please keep us posted!

🙄

I ran a shot string from 200 bar down to 190 bar.
Shot Fps
1 781
2 782
3 782
4 823
5 875
6 880
7 900
8 908
9 912

and before I refilled to 200 bar

at 170 bar
1 933
2 944

I refilled after shot 2 and ran the string above (Shots 1-9)

So, there is a upward velocity trend here.

After shot 9, I checked the HST screw and there was no movement.

I’m thinking there is something going on with the regulator.

I also checked for leaks again using the tissue over the breeck method.
No detectable leaks.

I don’t know when this started but I am not a happy camper.

I email Tony to see what he can do. I don’t feel comfortable disassembling the gun to reach the regulator but I may have to do it if I don’t get any help. The thing is, what do I look for?

Gabe G.

quote Tacoma_Tom:

This is how I mark mine. During adjustment I’ll use a pencil and mark a point on the HST housing them mark the silver screw with 4 long pencil lines one on each 1/4 then I’ll mark a half line in between those. This helped me fine tune my gun with 1/16th turns (if necessary). I also took a picture and counted threads to go back to the original setting. This pic was taken when my rod stripped out and I was a 7 full threads and 1 starting thread. Reading this has reminded me to go back in there and erase all the pencil lines and make a final adjustment mark, and take a final adjustment picture.
In the pic you can just make out the pencil line and I put a “C” on it to signify center (aka start point). It made it nice, if I over adjusted one way, to know I screwed 1 and 1/2 turns. Back off 1/2 and try again, back off 1/4 and try again, add 1/16th…. 😉
I’m glad you figured it out. 😛
Have fun!

Hi

I marked my screw with a marker similar to how you did. However
I have some new info.
I fill the gun from 170 bar to 200 bar and freaking velocity dropped down to 789 fps on the first two shots. The screw didn’t move.
Obviously I need to send it to someone who can properly diagnose and fix the issues. Im going to contact Tony and see if he can check it out.

Gabe G.

This is how I mark mine. During adjustment I’ll use a pencil and mark a point on the HST housing them mark the silver screw with 4 long pencil lines one on each 1/4 then I’ll mark a half line in between those. This helped me fine tune my gun with 1/16th turns (if necessary). I also took a picture and counted threads to go back to the original setting. This pic was taken when my rod stripped out and I was a 7 full threads and 1 starting thread. Reading this has reminded me to go back in there and erase all the pencil lines and make a final adjustment mark, and take a final adjustment picture.
In the pic you can just make out the pencil line and I put a “C” on it to signify center (aka start point). It made it nice, if I over adjusted one way, to know I screwed 1 and 1/2 turns. Back off 1/2 and try again, back off 1/4 and try again, add 1/16th…. 😉
I’m glad you figured it out. 😛
Have fun!

quote zocoloco:

Good to know it’s been sorted…….. 😀

For those who don’t know, (others skip reading) – this “silvery” screw is the hammerspring tension adjuster:

The little screw (comes in different versions) “on top of” the threaded part is supposed to lock the hst-adjuster. If that screw comes loose, – the silvery hst-adjuster may rotate itself out little by little. And it does not take more than a fraction of a turn of this adjuster before the fps of the gun “goes bananas”…..

Thanks Gabe for bringing this up…. 😀

I agree. Small adjustments do make a large difference. I’m going to mark my final adjustment with a permanent marker and keep an eye on the velocity periodically. I’ll probably set the velocity around 900 fps for now. I have less than a tin of .25 jsb and don’t want to run an entire velocity string. However, I will check velocity at the beginning, middle and end of a complete air fill. That should give me an idea if the HST is staying put. I was thinking about fastening a lock nut, but there is little to no room under the tension screw. I’ll just make sure to torque down the small set screw enough to stop it from moving and not too much where it will gouge the HST screw threads. If that is possible. I learned that a chrony is a valuable diagnostic tool. Everyone should have one.

thanks everyone for all your help,

Gabe G.

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