My talon accuracy, need advice and help
shots my talon with eun jin and cudas, all is bench rest from 32 meter indoor and the result is like the pictures below, result is same with or without ldc.
I don’t think this is accurate enough for dove or squirrel at 50 yards but may be enough for hogs.
Please, let me know does talon owner here has the same accuracy with me or better or worse and how to solve this accuracy problem?
if this can’t be cure I will replace my barrel with .25 cal 24″
thank you in advance
markus
All Replies
he has abondoned ship already on this barrel i guess ,he has post on the yellow with 25 cal groups that he needs help with.
See Pab’s post above. He hits the nail on the head. All other factors considered, the pellets are probably the problem. Some barrels just won’t shoot all pellets the same.
The JSB Heavies are the best bet. I guarantee you won’t shoot any worse that what you show.
H 😯 😯 T
your on an indoor range with zero wind at 30 meters , there is no explanation for this other than you havent set the sights properly or you are canting the rifle (tilting it)
at the power you guys use in the states etc these guns recoil, you cant hard rest a recoiling gun and expect it to make one hole groups .
try useing it fully supported by your hands with just a sand bag under the front but your hand between the bag and the gun its probably just a consistancy issue rather than a mechanical one.
i was head shoting phesants at 70 yards with mine at 23ft lb (still no recoil that low) .
let some one else shoot it see if the groups still hit left ?
well, not exactly.
if it isnt just scope alignment, have you considered excessive tophat travel? that, almost without fail, will kick the groups to one side or the other…
every one of your groups is left of center even the one with the HW
your on an indoor range with zero wind at 30 meters , there is no explanation for this other than you havent set the sights properly or you are canting the rifle (tilting it)
at the power you guys use in the states etc these guns recoil, you cant hard rest a recoiling gun and expect it to make one hole groups .
try useing it fully supported by your hands with just a sand bag under the front but your hand between the bag and the gun its probably just a consistancy issue rather than a mechanical one.
i was head shoting phesants at 70 yards with mine at 23ft lb (still no recoil that low) .
let some one else shoot it see if the groups still hit left ?
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202932715/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
I use the dry slide on all my bores that i run lead thru , it coats and treats the steel , cuts down on leading ,
that stuff in a tube is relatively similar in formulation to what i got mixed, but i use a lighter viscosity silicone oil and an extremely high ptfe content. it works out more expensive, but gives it a unique viscosity similar in appearance to white glue, i keep fumed silica filler to a minimum, as it is basically ground glass whose presence is made basically obsolete as a thickener by ptfe…
i use white lightning(similar to krytech) on my pellets, its a cerflon based wax lube, burnishes into the pores and is a BEAUTIFUL bore conditioner…
I’m all ears, you mean like this.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202932715/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
I use the dry slide on all my bores that i run lead thru , it coats and treats the steel , cuts down on leading ,
PB,
whatever you use graphite on, dri slide or another moly powder could do better. lower friction coefficient, no intralamellar moisture, doesnt attack aluminum(documented but have not heard problems here.)
depending what you use it for, rem oil could be replaced with a cerflon or even plain ptfe based spray.
i mixed up a ultra high solids o ring and valve parts lubricant that i made specifically because i started running an aluminum breech slide. i was supposed to send a sample to roachcreek, but usps live to create misery for me. its great shit, tho…
well dielectric grease, dry slide,graphite , and rem oil which is teflon, don’t use regular oil either.
Not on everything.
Come to think of it, I don’t use oil on anything.
Hammer bearing surfaces need to be dry and polished. Anything else attracts dirt.
Trigger group I use teflon on the pins only. I use nothing on the actual contact between parts.
Silicone grease on the o-rings. Thats about it.
What parts are you putting oil on?
all good points riff, a good squirt of oil on everything goes along way too.
Danny Oakley…you schmuck… 😛
I will get flamed but a 9-10 shot group will always be larger than a three or five shot group and 30mm isn’t too bad. You should be able to tighten it up though. I tend to put a lot of pressure on the front gun mount by pressing the frame at he mating point. Also a high preload will cause a lot of gun vibration. Experiment with your hold a little, that has always tightened my groups.
Good luck!!
Ive had my rifle give me fits like this, and a few things come to mind.
Barrel tightening sequence:
Tighten all 4 grub screws finger tight, make sure the screws are in the center of the holes in the barrel bushings. You should still be able to rotate the barrel and slide it in and out VERY slightly.
This will tell you if your bushings need to be altered or moved. Everything needs to be centered.
When you tighten, start with the bottom screw closest to the muzzle and snug it down good. Then do the same with the other bottom screw.
Now just tighten the side grubs barely enough to keep them from falling out.
O-ring lube:
Surprising how often you have a leak and do not know it. Replace your breech o-rings with a 90 durometer variety. Then use a good silicone grease on them.
When you install the barrel, use your fingers to put a THIN film of silicone on the machined end of the barrel that goes inside the breech.
Not too much, you do not want the silicone getting inside the barrel when you cock and load.
Clipping:
Easy to check. Remove bottle and look down the barrel from the breech end. Move your eye back and forth and see if the shroud bore is visible the same amount on all sides of the barrel. Its easy to tell if the bore is not centered with the shroud.
Wild velocity variance:
Only a chrony will tell you this.
Also too fast is not good. Almost every good pellet likes the 900-980 fps range. There are some exceptions.
Pellet choice: Kodiaks are usually more consistent than what your are getting, but are known for fliers and wild shots from time to time.
Eun Jins will never shoot in my rifles well enough for me to keep them in stock.
I have never heard of JSBs shooting badly, never.
Barrel condition:
Use denatured alcohol and a patch to clean your barrel. Heavy fishing line or weed-whacker line is used to pull the patch from the breech out the muzzle.
Chemical cleaning is unnecessary unless you are certain there are lead deposits in the barrel.
Q-tip your crown. If you see fibers getting stuck, rework that crown. Everything should feel like glass with a Q-tip, if its rough it needs work.
Bad mounts or scope:
No explanation needed here, try something you know works on another rifle.
Height of the mount might be at fault with this type of rifle. If you have to struggle to get your eye over the center of the scope, try a different height.
Parallax:
Do not trust your markings on your scope. Set the rifle on a rest, adjust parallax and WITHOUT TOUCHING the rifle move your eye from side to side. Those crosshairs/dots must not be moving or you are NOT set.
Cheek weld: This goes along with parallax. Keep your eye placement over the eyepiece consistent. There are many ways to do this with cheekrests, adjustable butts, full stocks, ect…
Hammer chatter:
This one is overlooked a lot, and can be very intermittent.
Any grime/dust/whatever inside your frame where the hammer touches is suspect. Keep the frame and hammer surfaces clean and smooth.
If the hammer is fighting grime, you do not get a consistent strike so your shot consistency goes all to hell.
Tank issues:
The collar the tank screws into must not move. Sometimes hard to detect but the valve should tighten flush to the frame each and every time. This keeps the connection rigid. Any gap and you introduce a flex that is impossible to overcome.
Hold of the rifle:
Experiment with different holds. Frame flex can kill your groups. If you are pulling the rifle tight to the shoulder, ease off a little and see what happens. With the large variety of grips and stocks available, its pretty tough to pinpoint any one part of your hold that caused problems without experimenting with it.
If none of the above help, maybe its just you.
I went through a bad time with my shooting a few years ago and only through hundreds of shots a week did i work through it.
I’m no Danny Oakley, but a pretty fair shot if I do say so myself.
😆
Good luck.
Well i wil say that my gun is not the most accurate all the time, it will get out of tune and not stack them , but even when i consider it not shooting it will shoot most any pellet under and 1” AT 30 YARDS. IF your power wheel and top hat are not in sink with your tank pressure you will not get peak accuracy.
What other pellets have you tried, what are the setting s on the gun, i have not tried wd 40 , but put some on a handful of pellets and give it a try.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
There are times when too much advice is worse than none at all. I don’t believe he has a major problem beyond getting to “know” the barrel, and its characteristics.
There are good forum members over at the Yellow. Perhaps, if they mirror what has been said here, he’ll get straightened out.
I hope so. A number of new guys here have come and gone, due to frustration with understanding the in’s and outs of pcp rifles.
Hoot