Need expert help with Talon valve Please.
I have been getting some high low but mostly left-right hits. The top hat is set to about .065 and what I noticed is that the top hat is bottoming out, I can see a scuff ring under the top hat in the brass.
The valve has been modified by one of the top guys with an extra O ring and for more, consistant power.
I also have a brass hammer that is a little heavier than stock.
The valve stem has been opened to just under 3mm (everything else has been opened and polished also and it piched up about 75 FPS over stock with 21g kodiaks at 865 fps out of an 18″)
I tried to move the top hat out a little more but it goes through air too fast and then the velocity drops off too fast when its out too far after just a few shots, like 14.
Right now there is no preload on the valve spring. What is the best (proper) way to correct this. Preload on the current valve spring, no preload but use a heavier valve spring, or use a lighter hammer or go back to a thinner valve stem (slower fps) for slower, more consistant, higher number of shots and a lighter hammer (closer to stock)?
The power setting is on 4. It does not make much difference from 4-11.
Thanks for any help.
Konrad
All Replies
DW,
Lots of good info in the Quick Reference section 😉
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249&highlight=top+hat
Does the rifle group at all. Is there a shroud on.
Clipping will cause eratic velocities and groupings.
What is your max fill pressure?
With the heavier hammer you should have some decent spring load on your top hat.
Good Luck
I warned you that I was knew so here goes one of those question my friend,
Just what is a “Top Hat”..?
Everything is lubed well and polished. I will add more (some) preload to the spring, I would say that that should do it because I think the tophat was just hitting the valve(bottom out). I just didnt know if adding preload was the way to fix it. I will effect changes and report back in5.5 hrs.
Thanks
First things first…
Lube your breech o rings. Breech slide should run smooth on barrel.
Lube your valve oring. Coat your valve stem with silicone and fire 10 shots, wipe off.
Add more preload to your valve return spring. If measured it would be about 10-13 pounds of pressure to open up the valve.
Just use your thumb. You want some resistence when you press in the tophat.
Tophat and stem travel should be very smooth.
Is it possible you have to much hammer weight or hammer spring? Or not enough valve spring? It almost sounds like your valve is being kept open to long and inconsistently closing.
Im just guessing and Im sure it will get diagnosed by the pro’s soon enough.
I have a shroud, it makes no difference on or off except it is so nice and quiet with it on.
Fill pressure is just over 2900, I can tell that it likes just under 2900 because the first few shots are wild then it calms down. It starts to group in a reasonably good vertical group but then one will be left and low, or high and left or right. Then after about 15-18 shots it starts falling off pretty fast, about half inch a shot, thats when I know I am around 2400 in the tank.
How much of a turn should I preload the valve spring, after it makes contact?
Konrad,
Does the rifle group at all. Is there a shroud on.
Clipping will cause eratic velocities and groupings.
What is your max fill pressure?
With the heavier hammer you should have some decent spring load on your top hat.
Good Luck
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I appreciate the information. I have been looking through the search area and there are just a lot of things about his gun I don’t understand. I will be purchasing this gun soon and need a lot of help fast and that is why I came to the forum. I will use the search as much as possible but when I am lost I will be asking on the forum..Please understand that the search feature takes a lot of time and I want to get my gun soon and that is why I will be asking for help in purchasing this gun.
It is like what you just showed me in the photo..I really don’t know what section of the gun that is. I am guess that it is the air tank..