Q:

New $210 Tuxing 4500psi compact compressor

After much deliberation I have bought a compressor to fill my PCPs and pony bottles.
I was torn between spending decent money on a Bauer JNR or just take a risk on a cheep Chinese job.
The new Altaros booster looked great but it still relies on a regular work shop compressor to operate which would mean I would have to spend more money upgrading my current workshop cheapo or it would soon let me down.

So after searching many cheap Chinese compressors I found this one that is very well priced and fairly new to the market.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PCP-Inflator-Electrical-Air-Compressor-for-airgun-cylinder-High-Pressure-300Bar-4500psi-Paintball-Refilling-110V-220V/32757013722.html

Size L 35cm x W 18cm x H 34cm
Net Weight 17KG
Power 220V-240V 50HZ or 100-130V 60HZ
Motor Power 1.8 KW Pressure :300bar/4500psi
Inflating speed 2800r/min
Noise78DB

Fill an empty 500cc bottle to 300bar in about 5 minutes and direct airgun cylinders topped up from 120bar to 300bar in 2 mins

It boasts a new design water jacket for better cooling than the open tube tube compressors and seems to have some really great reviews so far.
Buyer reviews here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4500PSI-compressor-300bar-Electric-portable-pump/32691757608.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.264.AAz6YJ

I had no real need to fill 12ltr dive bottles with a compressor (which Im sure this one will do) so a lightweight will suit my needs.
It will be mainly used to direct fill my PCPs, top up my 500cc backpack bottle from 180 to 300bar and top up my 3ltr pony bottle from 180bar to 240bar.
Between them all I have more than enough air for an outing.
I had some reserves about build quality but it is a very simple unit and I had the seller pack in enough piston seals, O rings and plastic seats to rebuild the thing ten times over for a very reasonable $7 extra.
The Seller was extremely helpful and seems to know his product with full back up service parts available.
Fuxing my Tuxing looks to be very simple and it lends itself to loads of upgrades such as a larger oil/air separator.
I just received a litre of high quality Special Bauer full synthetic breathing air compressor oil which cost me a crazy $70 but there is enough for 4 services. (1000 hour intervals)

The unit arrived in New Zealand from China via TNT in a very speedy 4 days! Currently being held in customs but I hope to see it any day now.
Ill add to my review as I spend some time using it.

My expectations are realistic with any Chinese purchase but the price seemed right on this one.. It is really not much more than a motorised 2 stage hand pump and keeping that in mind the price is very reasonable.
I will be using it for very short intervals not hours on end like the shoe box compressor etc require so wear and tear should be a lot less.







Compressors, tanks and pumps

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 257 total)

1 2 3 4 16 17 18
quote Papa Schultz:

Or just a sharp photo of the plug’s face side, it seems to me there are small letters on it, just to make sure.
If I see right, the right hole on the pic shows “N”, which normally corresponds to the blue wire. The one one the left shows “L”, which normally corresponds to the brown wire and the one in the middle shows the ground symbol which normally corresponds to the yellow wire with green stripe.
I say “normally” as checking with a multimeter is still a good thing to do. Set it on ohms (resistance measuring) and touch one wire with one tip and one of the plug’s holes with the other tip. Repeat with the other two holes. The combination where your multimeter shows 0 or a value close to 0 or beeps (depending on the multimeter) is the one where wire end corresponds to plug end.

Another way to test is with a bike lamp bulb and a 6V battery. Connect the bike lamp’s socket to the + pole of the battery and the tip of the socket to one of the wires. Connect the battery ‘s – pole to one of the plug’s holes, then to the second then to the third. (Make a test before, connecting the two battery poles with the bulb to make sure both: battery and bulb work fine.) The combination where the bulb lights up is the right one. Don’t use a car or mower battery.

Here is a better pic. Checked continuity and L is Brown, N is Blue, and the center (ground) is the yellow/Green


Attachments:

Use a continuity tester to check this for sure but. The yellow/green is ground. The other 2 will go to your l1 and l2. Likely black and red. This is not a sure fire thing. You will need to make very sure that the yellow green wire is the one in the middle labeled ground. The other 2 will go to the 2 hot wires on your plug. Orientation of the hots won’t matter.

Or just a sharp photo of the plug’s face side, it seems to me there are small letters on it, just to make sure.
If I see right, the right hole on the pic shows “N”, which normally corresponds to the blue wire. The one one the left shows “L”, which normally corresponds to the brown wire and the one in the middle shows the ground symbol which normally corresponds to the yellow wire with green stripe.
I say “normally” as checking with a multimeter is still a good thing to do. Set it on ohms (resistance measuring) and touch one wire with one tip and one of the plug’s holes with the other tip. Repeat with the other two holes. The combination where your multimeter shows 0 or a value close to 0 or beeps (depending on the multimeter) is the one where wire end corresponds to plug end.

Another way to test is with a bike lamp bulb and a 6V battery. Connect the bike lamp’s socket to the + pole of the battery and the tip of the socket to one of the wires. Connect the battery ‘s – pole to one of the plug’s holes, then to the second then to the third. (Make a test before, connecting the two battery poles with the bulb to make sure both: battery and bulb work fine.) The combination where the bulb lights up is the right one. Don’t use a car or mower battery.

Do you have a multimeter??

quote Red314:

(Rusty-c) I think the plug I purchased at menards was a 6-20. It was the round 3 prong locking 20amp. You can just cut the end off of the compressor cord and replace it. Should have a white,black,and green. White is hot black is hot,and green is neutral/ground = 220v US You can tape the white with black electrical tape so others know it is a hot besides the obvious different plug.

I took mine apart and used new heavier wire and added a ground to the case. If you take it apart you will see only the hots are hooked up with no ground. China uses different wire practice.

Houston, I think we have a problem…. Or I’m just way out of my league here.

I added the ground and all went fine there. Problem arose when I cut the cord. The colors make no sense to me and are to my knowledge not standard for the wiring. Hope one of you fine folks can steer me in the right direction. Please see the picture below and thanks in advance for your sage wisdom….


Attachments:

It has arrived and appears to be in great shape as it was well packed. Quite a few extra parts included as well. My oil is scheduled to arrive later today and then it’s cut the cord time and adjust the wiring to match my service. I’ll let you know when we’re up and running.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

:8:

You sir are a good man.

What oil did you get and from where. So far I found some coltri 750 from nuvair.com but I haven’t ordered it yet. Looking for other options.

Mine came in yesterday. Had the oil waiting and was able to fire it up. Works like a charm. So long handpump!

quote Jman2311:

After doing more research on this and consulting an old professor of mine, I figured I would be the first to come out and say that I am wrong. You can run these motors on a standard 240V 60hz 2 pole plug. If you replace the plug and wire it properly, existing hot to L1 and existing neutral to L2 plus the added ground to the chasis that red mentioned for safety reasons, the motor will run. Probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to do whatever you can to add cooling air to supplement the fan that is already on the motor. I do have my reservations about going this route but if it is what you got, it is what you got.

Sorry for any confusion I may have caused.

Thanks for the clarification and no confusion on my part (that happened due to my own lack of information). 220-240v is an area that I have no expertise as a homeowner/avid DIYer so any discussion/info that is thrown my way is food for thought and a learning opportunity in addition to being greatly appreciated.

We all know what happens when we ASS-U-ME something, and my assumption was that I’d just be able to plug this up and go when I ordered. Surprise, my ignorance about electrical setups outside of the US certainly made me look like the first syllable so what you guys have offered here has been very beneficial and helped me avert a $300+ mistake….

After doing more research on this and consulting an old professor of mine, I figured I would be the first to come out and say that I am wrong. You can run these motors on a standard 240V 60hz 2 pole plug. If you replace the plug and wire it properly, existing hot to L1 and existing neutral to L2 plus the added ground to the chasis that red mentioned for safety reasons, the motor will run. Probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to do whatever you can to add cooling air to supplement the fan that is already on the motor. I do have my reservations about going this route but if it is what you got, it is what you got.

Sorry for any confusion I may have caused.

Red, did this work for you. US 240V is 2 pole with a center tap neutral. International 220v is single pole just like our 120V. Where the neutral is tapped in the windings is different and everything I have learned tells me that your setup shouldn’t work. A transformer should be needed here. Am I missing something?

Don’t want to come out like an asshole here but if this is working for you, I am missing something.

Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 257 total)

1 2 3 4 16 17 18
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.