NEW BODY MACHINING QUESTION!!!
I looked over the Quick Reference section and found this:
Theoretically, could I use the same dimensions, even with a much thicker O.D. tube? The I.D. would be the same as stock- or nearly, as these bodies tend to vary a bit… Also, If I’m looking at the trigger diagrams correctly, theoretically, If I increase the wall thickness, I’d only have to lengthen the sear (just the part that engages the hammer) so that it would still engage properly, right? Another question: what’s the least amount of thread I could use and still be able to secure a scope rail, or a trigger group to said tube? i.e. how shallow can I go and still be able to get a good amount of clamping force to safely secure said scope rail and trigger group? I’m thinking 3-4 screws for the scope rail, and two screws for the trigger area? This would be for a .257 build, so everyone please keep in mind a much stronger hammer spring! Thanks again all!
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No the stock AF frame is 1.010″-1.016″ ID. The PW is not that hard to make and the breech has to be made for .257 anyway.
A bit of an old post… buuuut I never really got one of my questions answered… If I use a 1.5″ OD, and a 1.125″ ID, would I be able to use the same overall dimensions of the stock AF maintube? Obviously I’ll be changing some things, or moving things around, but I would like to keep the breech area the same, and the power wheel stuff the same. that’s all I’m willing to do right now. after I make the scope base of course. Thanks all!!!!
4130? I was going to have it painted with Cerakote- I know a guy… won’t charge much. You’re right about 1117… I’ve only been able to find it in bar form. the characteristics made it look so tempting!!!!!!! So what are we thinking for the tubing size? I wouldnt want to get something too big, or too small to start out with… Thanks again Doug! and Everyone who has contributed info and views!!!!!
I would use chromoly because you can get a piece of tubing and go from there. 1117 is only going to be in bar form and will have to be turned into tubing.
I really think you should use aluminum and then blast bead and anodize it. That way everything will look the same when done. This is going to cost enough so it should look good also.
From my research from Dennis Quackenbush’s website:
“1117 steel is a free machining alloy. It will yield a smoother finish than any of the ten “10” prefix steels. The rods and bars, zinc plated and plain, that are sold in hardware stores are most commonly 1018 steel. As a comparison, 1018 has a tensile strength of 70/80 KSI (thousand pounds square inch) and a hardness of 80/90 on the Rockwell Hardness ‘B’ scale. 1117 is 80/90 KSI, slightly stronger, and at 80/90 B just as hard, but it machines almost twice as easy. No tearing and burring of the machined surface. This steel (1117) is widely used for barrels on .22 rimfire rifles and shotguns. Likewise, I use this steel to make barrels for air rifles.”
He says nothing about heat treating this material however… Again, Thoughts??? I’d really like to use steel for the main body for some reason…
Never heard of it. But if you use a heat treatable steel, (which is way over kill), your dementions are goig to change when thempered. Not to mention warpage is always a concern. I wouldn’t use a heat treatable grade for a frame. There is no need at all.
KnifeMaker
I was thinking maybe C1117 steel? does this need to be heat treated? It’s for the body. I see heat treatments for stuff like gears and such, other characteristics look good… sounds like a good material. But I don’t know. What do the Machinists say?
Ah, so a FINISHED OD of 1.50″ and a ID of 1.125″ with a wall of .187″ is what you’re suggesting? I know it’s going to be heavy- I don’t mind. I’ve carried heavy rifles all my life! I prefer them. I like the idea of steel, at least for the maintube. everything else will be 6061. Doug, you are AWESOME!! no homo.
My bad. ID is 1.125″ for .187″ wall. If you do steel it’s going to be heavy. I would go with .125 wall so ID would be 1.250″
Okay, I got what you’re saying… So I’ll go with the 1.50″ and 1.25″ ID. is that a wall of .25?? I would have to lengthen the sear a bit, won’t I? To make up for the thicker wall? Also, If I do go with steel, what do you suggest?? I know you’re pushing for 6061, but I’d really like to use steel for some reason. The original plan was to have a left feed only rifle (it’s out of the way of the remote line- tether) so that would most definitely be a side cocker! Oh- Doug, I’ve sent a PM…
It’s 1.75″ with .187″ wall. This is what I was going to use for a .452 build that I started and went know where with it.
For .257 I don’t see it nessasary to make such a large frame. Remember the striker release has to make it up to the hammer. The TJ barrel is only .557″-.560 in diameter. Right now a hammer is .980″ OD and can be made plenty heavy.
I would would make the frame 1.5″ OD and 1.25″ ID out of 6061 aluminum. Remember the frames right now are around .125″ thick. Making it a side cocker and only cutting out one side of the frame it will be so much stronger.
My guns with the 62 ci tank, shroud, and a big scope are around 14 lbs already.
The trigger is going to be the hardest thing for me to figure out.
I was looking for a heavier rifle, hence the steel. I was using your measurements- and having a tube made with final specs of 1.75″ OD 1.357″ ID… (wall .393″?) is that wrong? should the wall not be that thick? Of course, the ID will be concentric to the OD when the tube is made. Doug, please advise!! I’m building this new body around your valve!
Use 6061. Nothing wrong with it. So what is your finished size going to be.
I have a frame started and it is 1.75″ .187″ thick wall but that’s after I machined the OD and ID. It was 2″. .375″ wall tubing when I started.
I have been thinking about making a 1.5″ .1875″ frame for my new .308. But I have limited time to work on things and need to finish the gun I’m building.
well, I’m going to go with Doug’s idea and use a 1.75″ OD 1.375″ ID. Thoughts on material? I was thinking 7071, or even steel… but If I were to go with steel, (not worried about the weight), what kind of steel would be good to use? keep in mind that this will be a side-bolt, single side feed so the design is stronger (I hope) from the get go.
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Ah. But this brings up this question… could I use the same dimensions for the slot and holes and openings and such? In other words, could I use the same dimensions for the power wheel cutout? Or the breech cutout? I understand because of the new wall and ID the breech and power wheel themselves would be different, but would the dimensions for the holes be the same? Thanks for the info Doug! The help is most appreciated!!