NEW BODY MACHINING QUESTION!!!
I looked over the Quick Reference section and found this:
Theoretically, could I use the same dimensions, even with a much thicker O.D. tube? The I.D. would be the same as stock- or nearly, as these bodies tend to vary a bit… Also, If I’m looking at the trigger diagrams correctly, theoretically, If I increase the wall thickness, I’d only have to lengthen the sear (just the part that engages the hammer) so that it would still engage properly, right? Another question: what’s the least amount of thread I could use and still be able to secure a scope rail, or a trigger group to said tube? i.e. how shallow can I go and still be able to get a good amount of clamping force to safely secure said scope rail and trigger group? I’m thinking 3-4 screws for the scope rail, and two screws for the trigger area? This would be for a .257 build, so everyone please keep in mind a much stronger hammer spring! Thanks again all!
All Replies
you and me both venxxxxx!! what I’m hoping to do is build something similar to an Eliseo rifle… google it- you’ll see what I mean. Plus the trigger group and mounting area for the AR grip and the scope rail will be secured by screws. The tube will be true, and concentric with the bore… I just hope this idea doesn’t fall flat!
I’ve been thinking of building a frame myself, very cool thread. I’ll follow this, hope you get :8: it done well….
That my friend, is already in the works! I was planning on getting tubing a little bit bigger, that way I can have it turned down to a specific O.D. and have the I.D. is bored to a specific size, making sure all is concentric… what’s the point in trying to improve what AF has built, if it’s the same “quality” as AF??? 😆 What do you think about the combination of 1.75″ O.D. and a 1.125″ I.D.?? would that combination be too thick do you think?
Here’s the biggest problem. No tubing is true. It is all extruded and some is better than other. Just like the AF frame is now and how they vary and are not round on the ID. I machined the OD and ID of the 1.75″ frame I started. Very hard to bore deep so I did it from both sides. It is only 16″ long.
Next if you make it to big your hammer and breech will have to a lot larger OD to get out close to the frame.
You can have a ball mill made at a place that sharpens end mills and drills. I had a 1.5″ made and if I continue I will have to have a 1.75″ one made. They charged me like $60 to do it to my bit.
There’s nothing wrong with putting threads in aluminum. I have never striped a screw on a AF frame. Some people tighten things to tight or are not careful and cross thread things. I always use loctite and just tighten tight enough and don’t over do it.
So if you want to make the frame perfect you need to turn the OD then bore the ID to match the OD.
pulling threads- I forgot to consider this… aluminum tube, steel screws… damn. I was thinking of using 7071… would this be fine? I figure since its harder than 6061, it would hold up better with the steel screws… Thoughts? I’m glad you bring this up Voltar… Oh- and how did you configure the trigger group w/three screws? Two forward, and one aft? Damn, this forum fucking :8:
Dyotat, I feel your pain about the trigger!! I also have some trigger schematics, and I hope they work. See below:
Of course, I may just go with the super sear… I’m planning on not using the safety catch… my finger’s my safety! Anyhoo- What I was also thinking for the maintube is that I could slightly recess the scope rail, and the trigger group, so that they are even more secure, in combination with the screws… Thoughts? I was thinking maybe 1.75″ O.D. and use your I.D. spec of 1.125″… would that be good? Are 1.75″ ball mills available? Like would a machine shop have one? I wanted the bigger O.D. so I could recess the scope rail and trigger group, and still have a good amount of material for strength. Since you didn’t say no- would the same dimensions for the cut outs on the stock AF frame be okay to use on the larger O.D. tube? *crossing fingers* How much longer do you think I should make this body? I don’t want to make it too long, or else I run into the problem of a machine shop not being able to machine it due to length… I’m thinking maybe the length of a condor SS? that way I could still add a shroud later, which I plan on doing. Thoughts? Dyotat, thanks to you and everyone giving me input, I think this rifle is going to come out really well!!
😈 😈 😈 :8: :8: :8:
I used 1″ sched 80 aluminum pipe for the Vulture. Don’t recall the wall thickness but it is the min i would use.
Next build is 1 1/4″ sched 80 with heavier wall and larger i.d.
For booting the hand guard i used self locking threaded inserts. Prevents the ally from pulling threads. On the trigger mech used three screws as well without inserts.
For the bottle collar made a threaded adapter of steel then loctite it in place.
I would go with .187″ tube thickness.
I would use 3 bolts on the both scope rail and trigger guard.
I would go with a 1.5″ OD for the frame and make the ID 1.125″. Gives you a little more room and now your breech is thicker for safety.
This way it is easy to get a 1.5″ ball mill to contour the scope rail and trigger guard to fit the tube.
I have a frame started but stopped on it. It is 1.75″ OD and 1.375″ ID. It was for my .452 that I was going to build. Might still do it someday but barrel is a douglas and is .875″ OD and heavy. I want to build a .457 with a TJ barrel liner and barrel is a lot thinner and lighter.
I will build my own frame here but won’t be soon. I have to finish some guns and and a few .257 conversions. I can’t buy the frames anymore so I will build my own for my guns.
The trigger is my main issue on making them. I want it to be better but don’t know how to build a good one.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
does anyone have copies of schematics that shows the measurements for the power wheel?? I have the schematics from the quick reference section, but I’m not seeing the power wheel area. Or am I missing it? Any help would be appreciated! Needed info: how far forward from the breech area, width, height, depth, radii… stuff like that.
Oh- one more question: Would I be able to copy the stock dimensions for the breech cut-away, the power wheel cut-out and indicator slot, and trigger area’s on a larger O.D. tube? Or would I be a square one on figuring out dimensions? I’m crossing my fingers that I can just use the same dimensions.