Q:

New Frame Flex Fix take a look boys

I have been tossing this idea around for a long time. I finally decided to just get it done.

Testing so far shows it eliminates the frame flex from shouldering the rifle to tight.

Let me know what you think.

General Chat

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Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 30 total)

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Finally, a custom fix for the problem that has plagued the Airforce rifles for so long. It’s just sad that the guys at Airforce themselves have never even cared to rectify this. I am positive that they are aware of the problem but have decided to leave the engineering of the frame as is.

When I had my Condor with a laser mounted onto it, the flexing of the frame was so conceivable when I viewed it through my scope. All it took was slight pressure for the laser dot to move. Even at a distance of 12 yards, the dot would move by half an inch! Although, the frame-flex issue was never a problem with me, as I would hold it lightly, I thought it should still be eliminated by Airforce.

Good job, WOK, for coming up with a fix for one of the Achilles heel of the AF guns. Had I not sold the Condor, I would get this component from you. I contemplated about getting another Condor, but decided not to anymore as there are still some problems that I think should be taken care of.

WOK or Tony (Talontunes), if you can, is it possible if you can find a way to modify the frame to make sure that the breech knob stays in place when the gun is fired? Every time I fired my Condor, I disliked the idea of the bolt rotating to the side. I believe this is one other issue the AF guns have because the twisting of the knob to the side can alter point-of-impact during the firing cycle. This twisting motion torques the gun laterally by the tight squeeze of the breech O-ring that contacts the barrel once a charge of air is blasted. The problem doesn’t really exist when turning the breech when it is closed and there is no air charge in it, but we all know that once high-pressure air gets in, the O-ring tightens (doing its job of sealing all the air). This squeeze on the barrel will force the breech to twist to the side, thus changing the point-of-aim. Even worse, the knob hitting either side of the notch will compound the lateral movement.

I personally think AF should re-engineer their guns. They have relied on the same design, thinking that customers won’t notice the inherent problems that have bedeviled owners for so long. More importantly, I hope they find some way to isolate the barrel contact to the breech. I just got a KalibrGun Cricket, and I truly think the way the barrel is clamped on tightly to the scope rail, needless to say, isolated from the breech, is a brilliant idea. With this design, wherever the barrel is pointing, the scope will follow.

quote Anthony266:

Great job..
Did you do a scope and laser test on it yet?
Way to go Adam.
Tony

I did and it worked great.

I am going to tweek it a bit but it is a real improvement.

The gun is rock solid

Great job..
Did you do a scope and laser test on it yet?
Way to go Adam.
Tony

Look at it this way…

What is easier to bend… A long stick or a short stick?

Short is far more rigid. A long bar also provides a longer lever arm.

Two long pieces on either side of the frame that are bolt at both ends could in fact put enough uneven stress into the frame to bend it if they are not perfectly attached.

The area that needs support is the breech area. Running two long lever arms bolted to the frame up front, where it does not flex, is really not necessary.

Also the longer the piece the THICKER not THINNER you have to make it to not bend as easily.

And…. not many people are going to want to take a drill to their frame and make a hole for a bolt, especially if it really is not needed.

You guys keep messing with me. I was set on asking Doug to make me a sideplate like on his .308 and then this pops up and I have another choice.

If as Doug suggested making it longer and anchoring the other end in front of the trigger assembly may allow for a thinner piece.

What are you bolting to? I do not as of yet have a new guard.

Looking good so far! 😉

I wonder if rather than drilling thru the frame further forward, If the Pin holes could be used with half threaded small bolts the same size as the pins in grade 8 to provide enough strength in such a small dia. bolt. This would allow the use of several bolts forward of the trigger guard, along with the trigger area it’s self.

Just a thought. 😉

Mike

Thanx for answering that Adam. Trust me, i like it the way it is as i wanna keep my AR15 grip for sure.

Keep up the GREAT mods sir!

Yes. I cut the frame off top and bottom to line up with the AR grip

quote Voltar_1:

Looks good.
Could you run it back as far as possible to maximize the stiffening?

Looks like another half inch is available.

Walter….

I probably could add a bit more just to about where the angle starts. The problem making it all the way to the rear is that pointed frame becomes a problem when people want to add an AR15 grip. That pointy frame really bothers some users.

I could make it a bit longer.

I toyed around the adding a second bolt but drilling holes in the thin frame just is asking for trouble.

What causes the flex to occur is shouldering that tank and apply a lateral pressure at the grip area….that is where it flexes.

But I will be doing some tinkering to make sure everything is as good as it can get in the smallest and most effective size.

I mean it would be easy to add huge pieces of metal to the frame but then it would look like like a Steam Punk contraption.

I like things to look like they belong together.

Damned nice Adam for such a simple looking device.

I was just thinking like Doug about being longer and 2 screw hold down locations. But you answered that.

Hmmmmmm, looks like i have something else to add to the long list of PARTS to order 😆

Looks good.
Could you run it back as far as possible to maximize the stiffening?

Looks like another half inch is available.

Walter….

Only reason for going longer was so I could drill through the frame past the trigger parts.

I toyed around with making it longer and using a longer pin in one of the holes up front.

But when I was testing it became apparent longer not needed. Once you get into the tube region of the gun it is plenty rigid.

It is that big gap that is the weak link as you know. With the support I added there is an extra 1/2″ of aluminum thickness added.

It does not interfer with anything and once I powder coat it black it will look right at home.

🙂

Nice

I was going do the same thing but longer. Was going to make mine a pinch setup and put 2 holes and thread one side of the plate.

But I have got to much going on and wasn’t sure I wanted to drill 2 holes through my frame to see if it worked.

Thanks for the R&D 😀

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