New Talon, stuck pellet, what needs tweaking?
Just got my scope mounted on a new, stock Talon .177 and went out to shoot a few through it. Filled to 3K, and started feeding it 16.1gr EunJin’s. After about 10 good shots, I had a shot that didn’t sound right. It didn’t have the crack the others did. I removed the tank and looked down the bore, No light. Looking at the muzzle end, I could see the pellet about a 1/4″ from exiting.
I re-attached the tank, cocked it and fired. I could hear air escaping, but the pellet wouldn’t shoot out. I tried about 10 times. I removed the tank again and adjusted the top-hat out 1 full turn. Cocked and fired, nothing. Cocked and fired again and it shot out.
It acts like the valve spring is a little on the strong side or the hammer is a little light. Kinda like valve lock.
Does my diagnosis sound right? What can I do to prevent this in the future?
All Replies
Sounds like you are not pushing the cocking knob to the side.
Pretty sure I am, but I will pay closer attention to where I am leaving it before firing next time. Thanks for the tip.
Sounds like you are not pushing the cocking knob to the side.
So I went out and filled my tank to 2650psi. I also adjusted the tophat out 1 full turn. There is still a small amount of play between the breech cover and the tophat. Power wheel was on 7. This is the 40 shot string I got from it. As a side note, Adjusting the tophat seems to have finally (maybe?) gotten rid of the low power shots I have been getting. I actually had 2 higher than the rest of the string on shots 16 & 17. Maybe a little more tweaking of the tophat will solve my issue. Any ideas?
_My condor developed the same symptom and the Hi-Flo valve stem eventually broke and Airforce repaired the broke Hi-Flo valve at no cost to me, took about two weeks turnaround time. Did hafta pay shipping to Airforce.
_/\_Send the bottle and valve back to AirForce and have the valve repaired, under warranty or You can remove and polish the valve stem and seat, which will void the Warranty! I never did anything, to the hammer/spring or trigger group, to fix my problem.
After the repair my condor would shoot kodiaks supersonic on power level 5? Without any low power shots! Later, I removed the Safety and then did the TAG trigger mod. Recommended!
Maybe call Airforce customer service and find out what they recommend 💡
Sam :popcorn:
Guys, I’m still having problems with this Talon. I get the odd shot that is way underpowered. You can hear a difference at the valve and at the target. Is buffing the edges of the hammer a good idea? There is no pattern to the problem. It is not showing up as often, but it still happens. Will try and post a 25 shot string in a few hours.
I would bet that an oscilliscope would show that the silenser tape dampens (shortens) the vibration of the hammer spring. Otherwise AF would not waste time with it. I’d rather see them put a thin sleeve of silicone plastic from the power wheel to the breech. It would probably solve more problems and improve performance.
When my second silenser tab insisted on creeping along and peeking at me through the power wheel adjustment slot, I disposed of the problem.
yeah, even if i could afford a daystate i wouldnt trust it from the box…i strongly advise the complete strip-an-clean, leave the trigger group alone unless youre familiar with it. i highly recommend liquid wrench dry lube, it dries into a teflon/boron nitride coating. i avoid anything silicone, petroleum, or anything that dont dry completely, these guns internals are just too open to the atmosphere to use anything but a dry lubricant. as for the EJs, they actually are a bit small in my condor, strange because everybody else finds them tight, and my 177 barrel is stock LW. so, in summation, just make sure the gun is completely spotless, burrless, and sans corrosion, youll be fine.(and id call AF and bitch about them skimping on the “silencer” tag and giving you tape… 😆 )
Still need to get the chrony out and set up the top hat. I moved it and never measured where it started. Problem is, it’s pouring here today. Gonna tear it down again and buff the inside of the tube with some teflon spray as was suggested. Will post results when I finish.
It always bothers when a new guy who just got his “expensive” airgun has such problems right out of the box. Quality control was clearly the problem here. Fortunately, IDKJ was up on his game and knew enough to ask the TAG. 😉
IDKJ, :tag:
So, hows’s it doing now? Are you getting the power and accuracy that you want?
I am not a fan of the Eunjins myself, from what I have seen in the couple tins I have, the quality control sucks. I thought being heavier they would hit hard, and they do.. just not what I am shooting at. and they fit for shit in the barrels of both of my SS and RWS 48. they kinda remind me of the pellets that you get from Cummins tool when you buy one of their China cheapie B3’s and you get 10 tubs of pellets for $5 only in slicker packaging. IMHO
AF put that tape on the spring to reduce spring “twang”. I dunno, Ive never heard such a thing myself.
Tank ping, now thats another story. Mine rings like a bell sometimes, but I doubt anything I shoot even hears it. 😉
Whew, glad I got that outta there, we aren’t allowed silencers up here, lol. Seems to be shooting way better now. Thanks again.
What Riff-Raff said sure sounds like good advice to me..but what do I know…I removed that “warning tape” soon as I got my TSS…bad luck has been folllowing me around ever since 😕 😕 😕
LOL. Go ahead and remove that stupid “silencer” tape.
Since you are having wild velocity variations, that tells me your hammer is not striking the breech consistently. This is usually caused by hammer chatter.
There is dirt, grease, whatever inside your frame and its causing your hammer to not slide easily in the frame. I see that rust or whatever is on your spring. Thats likely the cause of your chattering.
Swab that sucker out, use alcohol on a chunk of t-shirt/rag and use a wooded dowel or similar device to clean it out.
Wipe off the hammer very well. Spray it with an evaporating silicone or teflon spray.
Spray same inside frame, not too much. Buff it til it shines.
Reassemble and try that out. I would bet your problem disappears.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Sounds like you are not pushing the cocking knob to the side.
Every one of my shot strings are very consistent, and I leave the cocking knob centered, not to the left or right.
I do however make certain the breech is at battery before the shot. Its part of the ritual.
But I can be certain Ive never had a dud shot due to the breech not being locked.
Not saying youre wrong, every rifle is different, but locking the bolt left or right causes lateral shift in POI for me. Probably a configuration issue, maybe not as this happens no matter where I have the tophat, or how heavy the hammer is Im using.
If you still end up with dud shots, its more than likely a sticky valve stem or slightly bent one if you have already cleaned the hammer and frame.
Good luck, keep us posted what you find.
BTW, that gun in my sig pic is a side-cocker. Just a straight slot, no locking detents. Its the most consistent shooting rifle I have in .22 caliber.