Q:

New Talon, stuck pellet, what needs tweaking?

Just got my scope mounted on a new, stock Talon .177 and went out to shoot a few through it. Filled to 3K, and started feeding it 16.1gr EunJin’s. After about 10 good shots, I had a shot that didn’t sound right. It didn’t have the crack the others did. I removed the tank and looked down the bore, No light. Looking at the muzzle end, I could see the pellet about a 1/4″ from exiting.

I re-attached the tank, cocked it and fired. I could hear air escaping, but the pellet wouldn’t shoot out. I tried about 10 times. I removed the tank again and adjusted the top-hat out 1 full turn. Cocked and fired, nothing. Cocked and fired again and it shot out.

It acts like the valve spring is a little on the strong side or the hammer is a little light. Kinda like valve lock.

Does my diagnosis sound right? What can I do to prevent this in the future?

Talon/Talon SS

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I almost removed my “small piece of tape” on the hammer spring as well 😆 If anyone ever explained WTH it is there for and I forgot, I apologize, but please tell me again?????

OH NO, DON’T REMOVE THE AF SILENCER ❗
AF MUST HAVE RUN OUT OF THE ONE WITH “SILENCER” PRINTED ON IT.

Think I may have found the issue. There is still a piece of masking tape taped around the hammer spring.

O.K. I don’t think the problem is with the pellets. I had a few tins of RWS pellets, (superdomes, superpoints and hobbys) the problem I’m having with this gun is showing up on all of them. Not getting stuck in barrel, but a huge velocity difference. Some have a loud crack and others don’t. The ones that don’t are shooting about 2″ low at 50′. This is happening on all power wheel settings, almost like the hammer is getting slowed down somehow. Is there a strip down guide I can follow to have a look inside? Should the hammer have some small amount of divers grease on it? Thanks again for any guidance.

Most power at 22fpe compared to a Kodiak which runs 18fpe in a 12″ 177. I’ve shot over a hundred rounds and never a problem. http://www.pyramydair.com/s/p/Predator_Big_Boy_Senior_177_cal_15_8_Grains_Domed_150ct/804

For small game and pest removal these HP pellets expand nicely and are very accurate at 33 yards. http://www.pyramydair.com/s/p/Beeman_Kodiak_HP_177_Cal_10_34_Grains_Hollowpoint_300ct/833

Great. Thanks for the feedback gang.

What pellet do you recommend for the best accuracy and FPE?

Sounds like a pellet that was too large for the choke.

You got 10 good shots before this one got stuck? That is not valve-lock.

The pellet was stuck in the choke of the barrel. Since it was an Eun-Jin pellet, I suspect its one of thier famous oversizee and too hard lead pieces of junk.

I’d assume you had the Power Wheel set pretty high for those big, tight fitting EJs. I don’t like the EJs because of the tight fit. They are either over sized or to hard. That would cause unnecessary wear in a LW Match grade barrel IMO.

Also, I’ve never shot those 16.1gn 177 Eun Jin pellets. Maybe they have problems in a choked barrel, maybe they aren’t sealing the air… If you want a magnum 177 pellet, with a traditional skirt, try the Big Boy Senior 177 15.8gn… I get 1″ groups at 33 yards and they hit really F’ing hard with 22ft/lbs… http://www.pyramydair.com/s/p/Predator_Big_Boy_Senior_177_cal_15_8_Grains_Domed_150ct/804

Without seeing the gun these are my best guesses:

1) You have valve lock, your pressure is too high. I fill my gun to 2600psi as a maximum and get 40 powerful shots in a TSS 177 12″. Bleed it out slowly with a couple of dimes in the fill adapter. Don’t get hung up on a 3K fill, it’s not important.

2) You may also have the top hat not adjusted out far enough. With the hammer cocked and the breech closed… do you get any play between the top hat and breech? adjust the TH until there’s no slack… this should guarantee the breech is always resting on the TH after you lock and load. A gap will reduced the hammer effectiveness.

Viewing 10 replies - 16 through 25 (of 25 total)

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