Q:

New threaded shroud design

I was recently asked by a member here if I could make a shroud that threaded onto the frame adapter. The adapter would stay in the frame, but the shroud tube will come off. I started on this a week ago, and at first I though it just wasn’t going to happen, because the threads have to be so fine. I searched through Machinery’s Handbook to see if I could find a standard thread that worked with the wall thickness and tube diameter, no such luck. So I had to base my thread off of a standard thread to make it work. To sum it up, after some fiddling and small cuts, I got the threads to fir together, and very nicely I might add. I wrote down all the measurement of the threads I made, so i can duplicate them in the future. Here is how it turned out.





I still need to find a finish that is very durable and looks good to. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Shrouds and Moderators

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You would need to bring in a lot of wokbutts to make that worthwhile.

You might need some special cutting tools for that CF.

On another note. My local anodizer wants $65 min for an order….whewww!

I am gonna build a fatty shroud with 2.5″ carbon fiber tube. It will have threaded aluminum rings on both ends, and the endcap and adapter will attach to those. All I need is the tubing, which is VERY EXPENSIVE!

I already have a shroud by Bikin and all of these new ones make me itch to upgrade it, lol. I’m serious too.

I’m very much glad by the fact that he is learning and improving all of the time, especially at such a young age. The shroud that I have is not perfect, but these newer ones seem to be so much better, and that is to be commended.

I used the endcap as a center.

If you dont want to buy a bull nose live center you could make your endcaps and then use that on your live center. You must have done something before you sent them for anodizing ). Im sure you figured it out.

quote Shadoh:

Well, you could use the steady rest to do your work on the end. Then get a big bull nose live center to do your final finish work.

u beat me to it.

Well, you could use the steady rest to do your work on the end. Then get a big bull nose live center to do your final finish work.

quote Shadoh:

If you already have rollers are you maybe over tightening them? Or maybe taking to big of cuts so that it pushes hard on the rollers?

I first center my tube, then I install the steady rest. Then I spin the lathe and move each roller until it barely touches. Even with lathe just spinning, and no cutting, it still messes up my finish. It does not hurt the metal any, only the finish.

That is similar to what I have. Except mine is like 50 years older.



and damn, I need to polish my chuck!

If you already have rollers are you maybe over tightening them? Or maybe taking to big of cuts so that it pushes hard on the rollers?

Bikini,

Take a look at this

My steady rest does have rollers, but they are not exactly friendly to my metal. do you have any suggestions to make them work better? I was thinking of delrin rollers maybe.

Those do look good Bikini.

You can modify your rests – drill holes at the end and attach bearings to make them less destructive.

quote WalkonKing:

Derek,

Those look good. Do they offer polishing or bead blasting at the anodizer?

Thanks, I would have to ask them next time I go down. I know they do nickel plating on steel, but I don’t know about other aluminum finishes.

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