Q:

Offset Tank

Heres that offset tank/Regulator adapter Ive been working on. Im a Cad newbie so forgive the pics. They are basic without a ton of detail until I lern it mor. I need to buy a book ).

Some features:

Main tank moved to the side for a more comfortable cheek/tank weld.
Can be flipped for lefty or righty in seconds. No more tilting your head to the side to see through the scope.

Added a low pressure tank and regulator that is user adjustable by using an allen wrench and the pressure gauge.

Fill probe adapter can be used while on the gun. Similar to the one Baz posted awhile back. Just slide in the probe and start pumping. 😯

Bottle collar in the gun will be removed for added valve room. Tank and adapter lock into the gun using the larger collar hole and the two angled rails on the back of the gun. Adapter will installed and removed in seconds using a thumb lever on the back of the gun.

Increased valve area allows more possible valve designs. I will start off with something semi standard but I have a zero back pressure valve on paper for the future.

This mod will add about an inch to the length of my gun.

This is a hobby project for me so it will be as time and money permits. I already have the T6 aluminum and several of the parts. Im going to need some more tooling though and will be chipping this out on my poor boy lathe and home built mill.

Mods/Machinists

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Sorry for the big delay on this guys. I thought I would finally be finishing up my “autopump” project and would be able to move on to this one, BUT.

My big hold up on the autopump was a welder. I borrowed a friends but it just didnt have the balls to do the job I needed done. It was ok for tacking stuff up but that was about it. I decided I would save up and purchase a quality, small welder that would do the work I needed.

I gave a guy on Ebay a “best offer” bid on a Lincoln 180c welder. I thought it was a low ball bid but he accepted it. Over a week goes by and he still hadnt shipped it. The feeling I got was that he wasnt happy with what he was getting and wanted out of the deal. Anyway, I went through PayPal and got my money back but it takes forever (seems like) to go through the steps.

After that I purchased a “MINT” 180c on Ebay. It wasnt as good a deal but it came with some extra’s and was in like new condition. UPS decided to crush that one (I think I cried) so I had to go through an even longer process to get my cash back.

Finally I decided Im just going to buy a new one. It will be more money and bit longer to save up for but I should have it in April. I will finish up my pump and then continue on to the regulator. The testing that will be involved and many, many refills I will need to do I wanted my pump done first. Plus I dont like to have to many half finished projects lying around, it can get out of hand.

DH, if you read this I would greatly appreciate your opinion on the recently released Miller 211. The duty cycle isnt great but for a hobby machine it will still weld up to 3/8 mild steel in a single pass. Thats the same capability of the full size Miller 210.

http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/spec_sheets/DC12-54.pdf

Thanks Walt. Yeah, I have figured in the force on the sensing piston. At first I was trying to make it as small as I possibly could to reduce the force needed to control it would be smaller. After seeing the amounts of force that can be easily applied with a screw I will be making it a bit larger just for the convenience factor in machining the parts.

Shadoh, how big a sensing piston are you using? use that to find the force at the regulator setpoint. I doubt you will have any troubles with a suitable fine thread allen headed setscrew.
Walter….

I think the force on a fastener is figure teh MA by how much it moves vs how much the wrench moves
So if you use a say 1/2″ 20 setscrew it moves 0.050″ per turn
A wrench of say 6″ long moves 36″ around so the MA is 720 to 1

assume 25% friction then a force on teh screw of 500#sf plus friction requires 625 #sf to move so then 625/720 means teh wrench needs say 1.0 #sf to move. Rough quick figurin…..

Walt

Oh, another question regarding this nut is what amount of force can comfortably be applied to say 5/16 allen head wrench?

Ive been researching everything I can before I turn any chips on this thing. Currently Im working on the force required to adjust the regulator via a allen head type screw against the spring discs while under pressure.

I found this chart online

http://books.google.com/books?id=OX9hspFzRAsC&pg=PA108&lpg=PA108&dq=screw+force+pounds+per+inch&source=web&ots=u-Bwb96eLD&sig=TDIMOEPMa5YoHu50z8HXKE0P4H0&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=8&ct=result#PPA108,M1

Im going to be using a 5/8″-18 or a 3/4″-16 inch screw/bolt. From that chart it looks like they can do anywhere from 1300 to 7500 lbs of force (wow) using hand tools. Is there a better chart/formula to use?

Also, I realize that this is limited to what the threads can hold which brings me back to my question in another thread about the strength of the threads themselves. I got no responses in that thread. Does that mean nobody has the answer here? Surely with all the machinists here someone must be able to answer or point me in the right direction?

The tank is only moving about an inch to the side. You rest your head as you normally would except it will be more comfortable and feel more like a normal rifle stock. IMO

If the tank is on one side, where are you suppost to rest your head so you can take aim?

Lol, now I gotta color me a gun to? I might give it a shot. I wish I had that one McMike had already made up.

Shadoh,

How about a picture showing how it is going onto the gun. Just having a hard time picturing what you have planned.

quote Shadoh:

Chronicash, one like you have posted has already been produced and is likely going to be available at some time in the future. I dont want to add up to four inches to the length of my gun so that one isnt an option for me.

Here is the link to it

http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4738&start=0

Its pretty cool though, what that guy made you have to admit

Cronicash, one like you have posted has already been produced and is likely going to be available at some time in the future. I dont want to add up to four inches to the length of my gun so that one isnt an option for me.

Here is the link to it

http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4738&start=0

What program are you using to make the pics you posted? They are almost photo like.

Wok

quote :

How would you guys attach it to the gun? The adapters being oblong would no allow you to rotate it into the frame. The fram has those 2 pointy parts that is only big enough to screw in the bottle at the vertex.

Shadoh-In first post

quote :

Bottle collar in the gun will be removed for added valve room. Tank and adapter lock into the gun using the larger collar hole and the two angled rails on the back of the gun. Adapter will installed and removed in seconds using a thumb lever on the back of the gun.

JFK

quote :

A quick fill system would be needed or taking the tank off to re-fill it would be a pain in the ass.

Shadoh-In first post

quote :

Fill probe adapter can be used while on the gun. Similar to the one Baz posted awhile back. Just slide in the probe and start pumping. Shocked
quote JFK:

A quick fill system would be needed or taking the tank off to re-fill it would be a pain in the ass.

Thats the whole idea of using the like of an evanix ar6 refill design

A quick fill system would be needed or taking the tank off to re-fill it would be a pain in the ass.

You could remove the (female) threaded collar from the gun frame, screw that collar onto the adaptor then re-insert the collar/adaptor into the gun and tighten the set screws down.
John

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