Q:

pics of current configuration of Talondor with MD stock…

…I have not yet touched up the over spray on the stock, but if I decide to keep it this way (which I doubt as I am always changing paint on everything I have 😕 ) I will clean up the lines where the black meets the tan…

Anyway, I purchased a .25 18″ barrel for a good price from a gent here in North Florida. I came home from work last night to find the box waiting on my dining room table. Since I don’t have T.V. at my house (only netflix), and since I couldn’t watch my Giants play on Monday night football (probably for the better as the Refs would have had my blood pressure boiling {lots of bad calls}), I decided to listen to the game on AM radio (less stressful) while putting my (new to me) 18″ barrel in.

Things went very smooth in the beginning until I discovered I had a problem getting the breech to ride over the leade in and cock the gun. Now I am no “newb” when it comes to these “lego” rifles so the first thing I thought of was something was binding the spring, perhaps a screw, perhaps something got inside in the midst of my worry as to how the Giants D (or any defense for that matter) can contain the likes of RG3 and win a football game…man that kid has some talent, but I digress sorry. Sooooo, I take the barrel out to find nothing interfering with the spring and hammer so my next thought is perhaps a bent barrel (sorry Roger {the gent I bought it from} nothing personal, just trying to sort it out. I check the barrel and it is perfect. I then move on to the barrel bands (as no two are alike (are you reading this Air force Quality control manager???), reaching into my “box O’ many bands” I put two new ones on. I reassemble the rifle and STILL, the same problem 😡 . By this time the giants are down by 7 and I’m up way past my normal bed time of 10:30 so I am getting tired, frustrated, and angry. But since I have a date with a complete garage over hall in the morning (my day off), thereby reducing my “honey do” list from 103 things to 102, I must get this sorted out before hitting the sack. Now I’m not the smartest guy in the world, but I recall many years ago, a “red neck” mechanic here in Florida told me that when working on anything it is imperative to be smarter than what your working on (paraphrased of course). I can’t tell you how many time since I was outsmarted by inanimate objects and machinery, but still, I call upon his Solomonic words as I breath in deep, then exhale. I take a few moments and deduce that I need to have the barrel out of the frame so I can compare it to my other barrels and figure this thing out so I can get some must needed shut eye. By now the Giants already fell 17-16 opening the door further in the NFC east for a number of rivals to walk through, especially considering the soft remaining schedule of our rivals…but again, I digress (sorry, especially for those of you who don’t like football).

BINGO, the barrel leade in is fine. The culprit: (drum roll please) the breach! The breech I was using has been on my .25 condor for 2.5 years getting slammed by a 90 gram hammer so as can be expected, it was starting to break down. I reach into my “bag O’ breeches” and put on another and Eureka…problem solved.

Enter Problem number two: barrel shroud. I have a shroud from R&L that was on my .25 24″ barrel. I purchased a barrel band/shroud stud in the event that I ever wanted to use this shroud for a 12″ barrel but wouldn’t you know it, the band/shroud stud has an i.d. for a .22 barrel not a .25. So ooooooooo I reach into my “box O’ barrels” and put on a 12″ .22 barrel (acquired from Rob in NC) for the time being and there is good reason for it. A year ago I made a large .22 pellet purchase and it included five tins of EJ’s and now I have reason to try them out! Ultimately this will be an 18″ .25 but for now I am off to see if these “North Carolina” barrels can shoot, lol.


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Talon/Talon SS

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Thanks for the info Harry!

Mike

Man that’s slick 80!!!!

quote knifemaker:

Thanks, Still trying to figure out how to put a reg on it with the maddog stock. Even thought of using a TalonP tank.

JDS airman makes one that that works with the Etac, I am sure it would work with the Maddog stock, but will probably stick out a little farther on the back. just get the Etac Short in the straight config with the regulator. You would thread it on and then put on the gauge and the nipple once you have it on the gun. I heard they work good, although I have never personally owned one.

Thanks, Still trying to figure out how to put a reg on it with the maddog stock. Even thought of using a TalonP tank.

Mike

quote knifemaker:

Harry, what kind of Reg you got on your gun? And How is it work’n out for ya?

I don’t have a Regulators on either of my guns. What you see on there is an adapter that Dyotat made for me, it has a fill nipple and a pressure gauge on it. It is basically an Etac, but shorter.. I have a Canted Etac on my other rifle, unfortunately it wouldn’t work with the Maddog stock.

Harry, what kind of Reg you got on your gun? And How is it work’n out for ya?

My MadDog Stock

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quote 80 GRIT:

Nice looking rig! Great Idea for accessing the barrel bands. Might have to do the same. I already found a piece of Picatinny rail (2.5″) that I will attach with the countersunk threads. As you said, take stress of the frame and also allow me to raise the height of the rifled (which is non adjustable) so I don’t have to use “shooting bricks” 🙂

My Maddog stock came with the 2 holes in there for access to the barrel screws. I am super happy with this stock. and yes, you can do away with your bricks. I have another TSS .25 that is tricked out, but the one with Maddog stock is my go to gun.

quote 80 GRIT:

quote rob3dr:

Looks awesome, 80… glad that barrel found a good home! As for the one I have here…. eh… I think it may work out well for a short spear..haha

Really a great looking build!

Rob, that might be the first time I have ever heard of an AF LW barrel not shooting well. See if you can send it back! If not, when I put the 18″ .25 in this one, we can continue our traditional “horse trading” if you want this .22 barrel…

I’m going to tinker a bit with it. I’m none too worried really. I’m really looking to go with an 18 inch barrel anyway on it.
I think most of my barrels have graced your door anyway at some point or another..haha

quote Harryparatestis:

quote 80 GRIT:

Hey Harry, what’s with demoting me “20” Grit’s. I’m not that “rough around the edges” 😀

I can see that type of mount on mine for sure! I noticed you have three holes drilled in your stock. How many machine screws hold it in place? On mine I had to make a shim for the screw to pass through so I could seat the trigger group plate in place (allowing proper pressure on the sear springs). I may drill another hole to avoid this “issue” each time I remove the stock.

Sorry 80 Grit, that was just a typo, I have “dicks for fingers” and fuck shit up on occasion. at least I didn’t type in 36 grit! Cuz that’s some abrasive shit there 😆

My stock has 3 holes in it, only one is used to secure the stock, where the forearm screw was, the other 2 holes are to access the bottom set screws for the barrel bushings. Yours should be the same, Mine is the Ultima Short Stock

Doug set me up with 2 threaded inserts that I countersunk, I put a drop of Gorilla glue on each of them when I put them in, so they are there to stay, I can remove the Bipod mount easily if I feel like it and all that is there are the 2 countersunk threads. I did touch them up with black marker, so you can barely tell they are there. I took that photo right after I installed it.

Nice looking rig! Great Idea for accessing the barrel bands. Might have to do the same. I already found a piece of Picatinny rail (2.5″) that I will attach with the countersunk threads. As you said, take stress of the frame and also allow me to raise the height of the rifled (which is non adjustable) so I don’t have to use “shooting bricks” 🙂

quote rob3dr:

Looks awesome, 80… glad that barrel found a good home! As for the one I have here…. eh… I think it may work out well for a short spear..haha

Really a great looking build!

Rob, that might be the first time I have ever heard of an AF LW barrel not shooting well. See if you can send it back! If not, when I put the 18″ .25 in this one, we can continue our traditional “horse trading” if you want this .22 barrel…

quote 80 GRIT:

Hey Harry, what’s with demoting me “20” Grit’s. I’m not that “rough around the edges” 😀

I can see that type of mount on mine for sure! I noticed you have three holes drilled in your stock. How many machine screws hold it in place? On mine I had to make a shim for the screw to pass through so I could seat the trigger group plate in place (allowing proper pressure on the sear springs). I may drill another hole to avoid this “issue” each time I remove the stock.

Sorry 80 Grit, that was just a typo, I have “dicks for fingers” and fuck shit up on occasion. at least I didn’t type in 36 grit! Cuz that’s some abrasive shit there 😆

My stock has 3 holes in it, only one is used to secure the stock, where the forearm screw was, the other 2 holes are to access the bottom set screws for the barrel bushings. Yours should be the same, Mine is the Ultima Short Stock

Doug set me up with 2 threaded inserts that I countersunk, I put a drop of Gorilla glue on each of them when I put them in, so they are there to stay, I can remove the Bipod mount easily if I feel like it and all that is there are the 2 countersunk threads. I did touch them up with black marker, so you can barely tell they are there. I took that photo right after I installed it.

Looks awesome, 80… glad that barrel found a good home! As for the one I have here…. eh… I think it may work out well for a short spear..haha

Really a great looking build!

quote Harryparatestis:

60 Grit…. you need to check out the Bipod mount that Dyotat made for me… it is pretty slick and you can avoid putting any undo pressure on your frame.

Hey Harry, what’s with demoting me “20” Grit’s. I’m not that “rough around the edges” 😀

I can see that type of mount on mine for sure! I noticed you have three holes drilled in your stock. How many machine screws hold it in place? On mine I had to make a shim for the screw to pass through so I could seat the trigger group plate in place (allowing proper pressure on the sear springs). I may drill another hole to avoid this “issue” each time I remove the stock.

quote kujitsu:

Did you ever find a frame you liked most? Or were all the ones you tested have the same flex issues?

The issue of flex is inherent in all of the frames. Many of us believe in the two system solution. 1) The WokGuard 2) The Mad Dog full stock. Choice between the two is mostly aesthetic and of course if retaining “take down” capabilities is important to you. I have had them both now and like them both.

The last frame I bought was heavily modified by the owner and although I have not run the “laser test” on it yet, I am betting that it will be cured of “flex”. The entire left side of the open breech area has been filled in. Also a “block” riser has filled in the open top. This one has a WokGuard in it’s future to put the final nail in the coffin of “flex”. Here is a pic of it:

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Did you ever find a frame you liked most? Or were all the ones you tested have the same flex issues?

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