Problem with the Matador and maybe solved??
Hey guys,
Can someone please confirm my possible solution for a problem I had (have)?
You now the O-Rings on your matador and its loading pen:
Well, these o-rings seem to get broken every 200-300 pellets which is tooooooo fast!!
I notice this when I feel air blown on my cheek and less consistency and a louder *pssss* in my ear..
After 3 times changing it, I decided to have a look at the possible cause.
I noticed when I loaded a pellet, sometimes the breech (or what is this called) is not firmly secured and is a bit loose (the not gray looking part in the picture):

So I noticed this part is held by this little screw (1 on both sides):

Now I fitted this one tight again with some NAIL STOPPER. Not Lock-tight!
This is the screw without the stock (right) and I noticed the other on the left also being loose:


Now I’ve put everything back together, all screws are very tight, but when you look you’ll keep seeing a small small not firmly closing gap like this:

Is this also the case with you guys???
ED, is this normal??
What should I do to resolve??
Is this idd causing the o-rings to break that fast??
All Replies
The .25 is the way to go, i too have modded mine & reduced the speed down to 900+, with .25 i took pigeons & squirrels upto 170 yards, not all die instant, shot placement is very important at these distances but just so you know it can be done & im sure even 200 yards.
mine is zeroed at 150 yards, had to lift the scope a little from the back to get there, also i never broke any of these O-rings on mine & i never ever greased them since i got the rifle & ive done more than 3000 shots on mine.
I am going to try & see how well my Ed long can shoot these 31grains H&N soon, as i just ordered a compressor & i will be able to tweak the req for these.
Duh, because you can’t read the directions when the boot full of piss? 😆
I resemble that remark as per Dirty Harry. 😆
I order 20 tins of JSB KING 350 pcs from Checz, and finaly today I got confirmation that he sending my order with plane.(after 45 days)
He had some problem with custom.
And in September I geting 10 tins more.
For this year more then enough.
That means that I probly need that O rings.
Thanx for help, will send you PM
About .25 power.
I shot crown at 108m and it looks like little black explosion is happening on that tree :15:
Dekan, PM me your address and I will send you some probe O rings for the .25 cal. I had to order 500 of them also as they are larger than the .22 cal’s O rings.
I’ve only sent them out to a couple of guys and have plenty left. Not too many .25s out there. I think that will change when the R3 .25 cal long versions become more available. I love my .25 and hardly ever shoot my .22 anymore. My buddy loves my .22, he has a Condor and doesn’t even bring it when we go shooting. He is trying to wear my .22 out though!
I have read where Ed says that the R3 25s are just as accurate as the .22s. When I got my R2.5 .25 cal, it wasn’t as accurate as my .22. I did some mods to it and is now is more accurate than my .22 standard. I love the way the .25 will slam pigeons around at 100 yards! The .22 just kills them.
I am really looking forward to getting my R3 .25!
No charge for the O rings, they cost me 4 cents each and shipping is only a few dollars. So far, the higest shipping charge was to a guy in India and it was only $5-$6.
You need to order more JSB pellets! When yours come in, I bet you will be shooting it a lot! I order mine 12 tins at a time, am down to 1 1/2 tins and ordered another 12 tins yesterday. That makes my 3rd order this year.
Thanx Oldy, for information about greasing O rings, I was thinking same thing when saw friction on them when cocking rifle.
That black grease you mentioned is probly graphit grease, used in autoindustry to grease homokinetic joints.
And for many other joints
I will see how long my O rings will last, but you are free to send me that hard O rings too :))
I pay all costs.
Thanx for nice replay and for offering me help with O rings.
I will check my MV with JSB King on Ed settings, when my pellets finaly arrive.
Ed told me that he suggest speed 295-305m/s, on that speed I need to get 75J with JSB King, and acurrate same as .22
We will test that:)
I payed that pellets 45 days ago, and some jurk from Chezh is playing with my brain. 😈
Another great reply!
Thumbs up x 1000 for Oldgoat!
:18: I’ll have to buy you a Belgium Beer!!
edit: sorry for the pics that are gone, but I have some probs with my server 🙂 -> SOLVED!! :18: :18:
Dekan, I am far from being an expert. Ed and Tony are the experts.
I have had my .22 standard for a couple of years and have kinda soaked up info from here.
I use silicone grease on the O rings. You can get the good stuff from a Scuba dive shop. It can also be found at auto and hardware stores. Try to find some that lists silicone as the only ingredient. Every couple of hundred of shots, I rub a little silicone on the top half of the probe o rings. I use a toothpick to try to get some silicone worked around to the bottom also.
I use white litium grease for the rubbing surfaces in the cocking block and trigger assembly. Quality WL grease can also be found at auto and hardware stores. In his assembly video, Ed uses some kind of black grease. I have no clue what it is. Maybe Ed or Tony will let us know.
I use FP10 or breakfree gun oil to wipe down the outside of the gun. I also use them, once in a while, on patches that I pull thru the barrel. I seldom use the oil and try to remember to pull a couple of dry patches thru every 250-300 shots.
My .22 standard, except for the probe o rings has been trouble free. I broke a couple of air valves on my .25. I have turned the regulator down and adjusted the hammer spring tension down on it. It now shoots the JSB 25.4 grain pellets at 890 fps and the air valve has lasted for many 1000s of shots. It is also more accurate at 890 than at the 950 fps that it was shooting at. I find that 880-900 fps is the most accurate speed, for both of my guns, using JSB pellets.
Both my .22 standard and my .25 long would eat the probe O rings in 500-1000 shots and the .22 kept getting worse, in the end, it was only getting 250-300 shots on the O rings. I tried a bunch of O rings from different suppliers without any better luck.
I finally found a supplier of 90 duro O rings, the standard ones are 70-75 duro. The 90s are a lot harder and last for 1000s of shots. I had to buy them in lots of 500. I asked Ed and Tony if it would be OK if I started sending them out, free of charge, to Matador owners that were having problems with the probe O rings. I got an OK from them and started sending out 20 to any Matador owner that asked. I thought that 500 O rings would last me a very long time. I had to order another 500 today as I was down to 20 and I had 2 more guys ask for some.
I have sent O rings to a lot of different countries. I have made some friends and had some interesting PMs and emails. I was kinda supprised with some of the places that Ed’s guns have reached.
Oldgoat,
I see that you are an expert for Matador, so can you please tell me what else you grease on Matador and oil.
This is my first PCP so I am a bit confused about cleaning and oiling.
thanx
Oh, gonna remember that one!!! 😎 😆
OK, please post the vid! It will help the other Edgun owners.
I didn’t know how handy you were with tools. Some people can’t pour piss out of a boot if the directions were printed on the heel! 😯
I have a show and tell about removing and adjusting the regulator. It would also work for installing a depinger. I need to redo it and post it.
Since this is the defacto Edgun USA forum, we need some stickys here for info that Edgun owners would find usefull.
I have a .25 long Matador R3 on order since last September. When it comes in it will be my third Matador.
I REALLY hate waiting for Eduns!
I’ve done it exactly like you, the past 3 times 🙂
When the 90’rs arrive, I will make a little vid how to 🙂
Thanks goat!!
OK Kazzz.
Tony emailed me and said that he changes them out without removing the rear breech block. I tried that and I could not get the old O rings off without cutting then off. I could get one new one on but, it would drop into the first groove and I couldn’t get it out of that groove and into the second.
Here is how I change them. First cock the gun and return the probe to firing position. Remove the 2 screws in the rear. Slide the rear block off backwards. If it is stuck, LIGHTLY tap it rearward with a rubber mallet. I use a toothpick to remove the old O rings.
Put a slight coating of silicone grease on the new ones and push them on. The first one will drop into the first groove, you can either use the toothpick to pry it out and then push it back or just push the second one over the first one and into the second groove.
Before you slide the rear block back on, put a little white lithium grease on all of the sliding parts inside the rear block assembly. Assemble the block and slide it back on. If it doesn’t want to slide back on easily, you don’t have the 3 parts lined up properly. Once the block is back on, put the 2 screws back in and tighten. Either put a pellet in and shoot it or decock the gun.
It sounds like a big hassle but, I can change them out in just a couple of minutes. It takes me a lot less time to change them than it took me to type this. 😆
oldgoat is the amazing one here!! Whoot! \o/
But the gap is now almost closed (barely to see with the naked eye) by removing the 2 breech block screws again and tighten everything very well..
So that’s also solved (because shooting with a gun you don’t thrust 100% isn’t good for the confidence!) 🙂
Now, any tips how to put on or off your O-Rings?
I do it with a tweezers, nicely let them slide on..
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Hey Nasser, that is some great long range shooting!
For some reason, the probe O rings last a lot longer on the .25 than they do on the .22.
Dekan, I/we really want to see how that R3 .25 shoots! You need to post some 50 and 100 yard 5 shot groups ASAP!
I don’t expect you to tear the whole gun down and post pics of the pieces but, that would be great if you did! 😆
If you ever remove the allen bolt in the front of the trigger guard and remove the stock, I would be very interested in seeing some pics of the underside of the gun. Especially pics of the hammer block assembly. Hint, Hint.