puff of air to the face – fix different for new R3Ms?
So before I say anything, i DID search many threads on this problem on all models, calibers, and dates lol. But most of the people with the problem were either with the 2.5 or the 3.0…none seemed to have the problem with the multishot version (that i could find)
So…my question is…most of the people fixed thier problem of getting air puffed in their face everytime they shoot by replacing the bolt probe’s o-ring…this R3M is brand new..it doesn’t have O-rings on the probe..at least none that are visible
I even took the breech off and didn’t see any o-rings that could have a problem…are the newer R3M models different? At first I thought this was happening because it was set to hot from the factory at 1000~ fps and is also VERY loud…so I figured there was too much air being sent back out thru the vents, therefore hitting me in the face…
but almost everyone else who had this problem was because of the o-ring on their bolt, so did my gun just come without o-rings on the probe? lol..or do all R3Ms like that now? I want to double check to make sure its not the vented air but its too late/dark to shoot and to lower the HST and try again. I will definetly do that tomorrow first thing if I don’t find a solution..
So what I basically want to know is, this problem on the R3Ms, does it require a different fix? or is there an o-ring I’m simply missing/overlooking? Appreciate any help and I know this is the right place to get it 🙂 This gun is basically brand new and don’t feel like dealing with problems. Even though it’s a minor issue, still annoying, even saw some threads on the yellow like this where people replied “thats normal, it happens on all Edguns/bullpups!” Lol.
Yeah…so if you guys can come up with any advice or answers I’d greatly appreciate it and I can try them out tomorrow, I’m hoping I don’t need to go out and buy new O-rings (if that is the problem, hopefully the supplied ones will fix it) because all the hardware stores near me have a terrible supply :/
Thanks in advance for any info
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My bad! There are positive threads! Good one! You almost had me.
It’s human nature to remember/discuss the negative aspects of certain subjects. I’ll be honest, I have been shooting some amazing strings/groups lately with my R3M, I nailed a few ground squirrels too…But I didn’t post as I’ve already done so, I don’t want to be labeled as one of those guys who is always posting just to post….shame on me.
My bad! There are positive threads! Good one! You almost had me.
:whistle: :rofl:
And regarding the puff of air to your face…
I can’t believe you got that model already. Ed was experimenting with this option and I guess he finally released it. You own the exceedingly rare R3MAC model. This model not only provides you with accuracy out to 100 yards but it keeps you cool at the same time. I’m surprised Ed hasn’t come in here to take credit for this new air conditioned model.
Maybe i can one of them before summer its gonna be a hot one here :rofl:
As soon as I read that, I emailed Tony and asked to buy at least 1 complete 25 cal R3 breech blocks and cocking handle assembly,
Tony emailed me back that Ed sent R3Ms to him, he didn’t convert any R3s into R3Ms,
Tony also told me that he didn’t have any 25 cal SS R3 breech assemblies in stock,
Whether or not it still wouldn’t bother me if he did. Like I said it’s not like I would have saved any money buying a R3 over a R3M…both run exactly the same right?
And regarding the puff of air to your face…
I can’t believe you got that model already. Ed was experimenting with this option and I guess he finally released it. You own the exceedingly rare R3MAC model. This model not only provides you with accuracy out to 100 yards but it keeps you cool at the same time. I’m surprised Ed hasn’t come in here to take credit for this new air conditioned model.
Dude…you’re reaching for that one weren’t you? We get it brother….you’re not a fan. But does this mean you’re going to troll any/all threads regarding Edgun’s? Or just the ones that someone’s having an issue…I notice you don’t comment on the ones that are positive in nature.
Lmao :rofl: that really made me laugh out loud while I’m shopping for food.
:whistle: :rofl:
And regarding the puff of air to your face…
I can’t believe you got that model already. Ed was experimenting with this option and I guess he finally released it. You own the exceedingly rare R3MAC model. This model not only provides you with accuracy out to 100 yards but it keeps you cool at the same time. I’m surprised Ed hasn’t come in here to take credit for this new air conditioned model.
I have read that Tony changed a few/lot of 22 and 25 R3s into R3ms.
As soon as I read that, I emailed Tony and asked to buy at least 1 complete 25 cal R3 breech blocks and cocking handle assembly,
Tony emailed me back that Ed sent R3Ms to him, he didn’t convert any R3s into R3Ms,
Tony also told me that he didn’t have any 25 cal SS R3 breech assemblies in stock,
So I believe this is the reason why your “port” block is crooked. The whole upper assembly consists of several parts. It’s all held together by the tension put on the baffle/barrel nut. First the barrel is screwed into the “port” block…then the barrel is inserted through the picatinny rail…then the shroud cap goes on the barrel all the way to the picatinny rail…then the first part of the shroud is slid over the barrel and lined up with the shroud cap, then the threaded shroud cap is lined up with the front part of the first shroud…then the baffle/barrel nut is tightend to the threaded barrel end….here’s where the misalignment can happen….if the “port” block isn’t lined up with the picatinny rail piece before it’s tightened it will stay that way.
This is why “Ridetoeat” suggested doweling the port block to the picatinny rail and the bolt assembly…so that everything lines up.
Yes you can send it back…but what happens if the next one isn’t lined up? I’ve learned a lot here and you can learn a lot from Ernest. I’d suggest keeping the one you got and getting the tools needed to work on it. I have just as much fun in tinkering with mine as I do shooting it. It’s part of the hobby if you ask me. Knowing how to fix things yourself will pay off dividends in the end. Yeah it sucks having spent all that hard earned cash and discovering problems…but at least with the Edgun I can fix it myself…I wouldn’t dare touch the Daystate AW with the electronic control board and what not. Same goes for the Cricket…it too is easy to work on, IMO easier than the Ed.
:2cents:
And yeah man I totally agree with you, it’s just I waited a while to save up the cash and worked real hard for this gun so I want to be able to use it ASAP. If I had extra cash to get the right tools and the time to work on it I KNOW I could’ve fixed it. And I’m 99% sure my gun wasn an R3 too, just had a multishot breech thrown on lol. It didn’t have the magazine grooves like they’re supposed to have. I honestly didn’t care, as long as it worked right, which it didn’t. But Tony probably knew this and thats why he was quick to fix it for me. It makes sense what you’re saying, also because the R3s have o-rings on the bolt probe right? R3Ms don’t…they’re suppposed to be inside the brass ring, which is probably overlooked sometimes when making the R3 > R3M conversion -_- Pretty lame if you ask me, but as long as my new gun has no problems I’ll be fine. If it does, this time I’ll try to fix it whatever way I can, and if it proves to be another annoying problem that wasn’t my fault, I might just say fuck it and go with a .25cal WST….Both are good guns, but I’ve ALWAYS loved Edguns and their style and look. I knew what I was getting into buying one and was okay with that, I knew that eventually I’d have it shooting awesome like you guys got your guns to do. Worst comes to worst, this next one has a problem. I’ll try to get it tuned/fixed ASAP, but if it’s going to be another 3week/month wait. Then I might just get a cricket. Seen people have better luck with used Matadors than new ones =/ There’s a .25 R3M on the yellow right now for $1650 (i paid1950 also) but I’m not sure if the guy is legit. He’s posted about 5 different Edguns now…Don’t understand why he’d buy them and sell at a loss?? Anyone know/bought from “Mark Miller” before? :rofl:
yes donny, you are a smart asian man! (aren’t they all!) JK NOT RACIST! Actually that’s a comment! 😛
But yeah I contacted tony to see my options, he responded insanely fast and told me I had 3 choices:
1. return for full refund (helll nooooooooo, i want my edgun!)
2. return for him to easily fix everything and set it to whatever FPS I want (free, i just had to pay shipping)
3. return to him and get a totally new gun instead with the FPS set to my liking
I did a option between 2/3 and just sent the gun back now. Was only like $35 priority to send it back and he’ll cover the return shipping, he said he’ll try to fix it within a day, but if he doesn’t have the time he will just test/setup a new action and put it in my stock and send it back ASAP. So I should have a non problematic gun arrive by Friday the latest.
That was the best solution for me IMO. I KNOW I could have fixed it easily myself if I had the right tools, but without a vice or the right size wrench, or even the right size O-rings it’d just end up taking MORE money and MORE time than swapping it out. Was happy with Tony’s fast replies and generous offers. From what I heard from others it seemed like I’d be left all alone 😛
Ernest also offered to send me some O-Rings and help out if he could, but he’s real busy and didn’t want to bug him and/or wait a week or so for him to make time to work on my gun. This way I can play around with it (set at a decent FPS) and get to know it well, then when he has some time (and I have extra cash) I’ll have him do some regulator/shot count work.
I appreciate all you guys trying to help and the very good info, I know I would’ve been able to fix it with your pictures and info, it just saves me time, money, and a headache doing it this way. I’ll let you guys know how the new gun turns out (if anyone cares! :P) Hopefully will be perfect :6:
IF NOT, FUCK IT IM GOING FOR AN 80 FPE .25CAL CRICKET!!! Jk…wouldn’t mind a .25 plastic fantastic though for $1200. Might get on that once all this is said and done. Still need a nice 2nd gun for summer hunting with the girl and friends 🙂 They’re too lazy/cheap to buy their own!
Take this for a mere suggestion/speculation…The R3M I got was originally an R3…I believe Tony received a bunch of multishot breeches and assembled them on the remaining inventory of the R3’s. He will deny that of course but I had marring marks on my barrel from a wrench in order to screw the barrel on the “port” block. Does it bother me as much as some? NO….if I’m not mistaken a brand new R3 cost the same as an R3M…I paid $1950 for my Edgun R3M. How much is/was a brand new R3?
So I believe this is the reason why your “port” block is crooked. The whole upper assembly consists of several parts. It’s all held together by the tension put on the baffle/barrel nut. First the barrel is screwed into the “port” block…then the barrel is inserted through the picatinny rail…then the shroud cap goes on the barrel all the way to the picatinny rail…then the first part of the shroud is slid over the barrel and lined up with the shroud cap, then the threaded shroud cap is lined up with the front part of the first shroud…then the baffle/barrel nut is tightend to the threaded barrel end….here’s where the misalignment can happen….if the “port” block isn’t lined up with the picatinny rail piece before it’s tightened it will stay that way.
This is why “Ridetoeat” suggested doweling the port block to the picatinny rail and the bolt assembly…so that everything lines up.
Yes you can send it back…but what happens if the next one isn’t lined up? I’ve learned a lot here and you can learn a lot from Ernest. I’d suggest keeping the one you got and getting the tools needed to work on it. I have just as much fun in tinkering with mine as I do shooting it. It’s part of the hobby if you ask me. Knowing how to fix things yourself will pay off dividends in the end. Yeah it sucks having spent all that hard earned cash and discovering problems…but at least with the Edgun I can fix it myself…I wouldn’t dare touch the Daystate AW with the electronic control board and what not. Same goes for the Cricket…it too is easy to work on, IMO easier than the Ed.
:2cents:
If you haven’t drilled into your stock already, I would contact Tony for an exchange. You got more than one issue it seems. I am sure Ernest could fix most by replacing o-rings but, you shouldn’t have to do that. Before you try prying that brass piece off, ask Tony your options. Most likely you’re going to scratch it up and won’t be able to return if needed to.
So you guys ARE saying that I CAN remove the brass ring without having to take off the barrel+shroud??
Also I realized that the entire barrel block (whatever it’s called, thing that houses the brass ring) is on totally CROOKED. Like i said this gun is new and i haven’t done anything to it besides remove the breech a couple of times to look, at first I thought the breech got put back on off center, but after removing it I realized its the barrel block that’s on crooked. I doubt that it will matter much besides its hardly off center….just noting that
So let’s say I can get this brass thing out, and find out there is no O-ring or the O-ring is damaged/whatever, DOES the supplied O-rings with the gun cover this? Is one of them the same size? Or am I going to have to go order/find a new one? If that’s the case I might as well just stop now and wait till I can either get this gun tuned/fixed up or possibly exchanged…
And I noticed last night, it lost about 5-10 bar overnight, could maybe be to temperature drop as we normally keep the house unheated (it get really cold) at night, and turn it back on in the morning. Probably a nonissue, but I’m just declaring everything here in case someone can see a pattern.
I knew what I was getting into when buying this gun, that it might come with a problem or 2, so I’m not pissed and about to just return it or anything like that. It’s just I saved up cash and worked hard for this and it annoys me I’m going to have to wait even longer till I can use it. I think my best bet for now is just to wait and see how soon I can get someone to tune/fix it or see what Tony offers me as far as swapping it out. I’d rather not pay another $70 shipping x2 for a problem I did not create. Anyone know if the warranty covers shipping? =/
Ok so I just did the toilet paper test and fired a few shots outside…first the air blast seems to be even bigger now. It’s 100% coming from that area as it almost threw the toilet paper off the gun lol. After a few normal shots it left my eyes watering lol. It’s also crazy loud. The loudest gun I’ve ever shot and it’s only a .22…you can tell something’s not right as others say theirs is quiet. I was going to chrony it but realized my chrony is broken now -__-
So you guys ARE saying that I CAN remove the brass ring without having to take off the barrel+shroud??
Also I realized that the entire barrel block (whatever it’s called, thing that houses the brass ring) is on totally CROOKED. Like i said this gun is new and i haven’t done anything to it besides remove the breech a couple of times to look, at first I thought the breech got put back on off center, but after removing it I realized its the barrel block that’s on crooked. I doubt that it will matter much besides its hardly off center….just noting that
So let’s say I can get this brass thing out, and find out there is no O-ring or the O-ring is damaged/whatever, DOES the supplied O-rings with the gun cover this? Is one of them the same size? Or am I going to have to go order/find a new one? If that’s the case I might as well just stop now and wait till I can either get this gun tuned/fixed up or possibly exchanged…
And I noticed last night, it lost about 5-10 bar overnight, could maybe be to temperature drop as we normally keep the house unheated (it get really cold) at night, and turn it back on in the morning. Probably a nonissue, but I’m just declaring everything here in case someone can see a pattern.
I knew what I was getting into when buying this gun, that it might come with a problem or 2, so I’m not pissed and about to just return it or anything like that. It’s just I saved up cash and worked hard for this and it annoys me I’m going to have to wait even longer till I can use it. I think my best bet for now is just to wait and see how soon I can get someone to tune/fix it or see what Tony offers me as far as swapping it out. I’d rather not pay another $70 shipping x2 for a problem I did not create. Anyone know if the warranty covers shipping? =/
It might help to stick in the freezer…might work to contract the brass.
…except the brass is in an aluminum breech block and the aluminum has the greater CTE by about 20%. Putting the breech & breech insert in a freezer will make it more difficult to remove as the aluminum will shrink about 20% more than the brass does. Heating the breech block up however will make the insert easier to remove.
It might help to stick in the freezer…might work to contract the brass.
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My bad! There are positive threads! Good one! You almost had me.
It’s human nature to remember/discuss the negative aspects of certain subjects. I’ll be honest, I have been shooting some amazing strings/groups lately with my R3M, I nailed a few ground squirrels too…But I didn’t post as I’ve already done so, I don’t want to be labeled as one of those guys who is always posting just to post….shame on me.
I can respect that…it’s quite annoying having to see a new thread posted every 15 mins with a new topic that could have all been discussed in 1 thread….