puff of air to the face – fix different for new R3Ms?
So before I say anything, i DID search many threads on this problem on all models, calibers, and dates lol. But most of the people with the problem were either with the 2.5 or the 3.0…none seemed to have the problem with the multishot version (that i could find)
So…my question is…most of the people fixed thier problem of getting air puffed in their face everytime they shoot by replacing the bolt probe’s o-ring…this R3M is brand new..it doesn’t have O-rings on the probe..at least none that are visible
I even took the breech off and didn’t see any o-rings that could have a problem…are the newer R3M models different? At first I thought this was happening because it was set to hot from the factory at 1000~ fps and is also VERY loud…so I figured there was too much air being sent back out thru the vents, therefore hitting me in the face…
but almost everyone else who had this problem was because of the o-ring on their bolt, so did my gun just come without o-rings on the probe? lol..or do all R3Ms like that now? I want to double check to make sure its not the vented air but its too late/dark to shoot and to lower the HST and try again. I will definetly do that tomorrow first thing if I don’t find a solution..
So what I basically want to know is, this problem on the R3Ms, does it require a different fix? or is there an o-ring I’m simply missing/overlooking? Appreciate any help and I know this is the right place to get it 🙂 This gun is basically brand new and don’t feel like dealing with problems. Even though it’s a minor issue, still annoying, even saw some threads on the yellow like this where people replied “thats normal, it happens on all Edguns/bullpups!” Lol.
Yeah…so if you guys can come up with any advice or answers I’d greatly appreciate it and I can try them out tomorrow, I’m hoping I don’t need to go out and buy new O-rings (if that is the problem, hopefully the supplied ones will fix it) because all the hardware stores near me have a terrible supply :/
Thanks in advance for any info
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That brass piece is really in there. I had to take off the barrel and push from the opposite to get it to come off.
Edit* Some people had luck by just removing the grub screw and the brass piece came off easily for them. That was not the case for mine.
Wow, is the breach o-ring in these so hard to get to that you can’t remove it with a spring hook or dental pick?
This brass insert can be tricky to get out…I fashioned a puller from a cleaning rod….Donny said he used a micro flat head screw driver that he inserted in the grub screw hole and pushed out.
Ok thanks for the pics man. Really helpful. I’m going to go do a toilet paper test right now to make sure 100%. Then I’m going to lower the HST also as it’s still at factory settings. if I’m really lucky the air/loudness is coming from being set too hot. but I doubt it 😛
I don’t have a good camera that could capture that detail actually. It’s really hard to see if there is an O-ring inside there without taking it apart. I don’t have a vice so has anyone ever gotten the barrel block off without taking off the whole barrel and shroud? Or is that the ONLY way i’ll be able to get to it? If so I might just have to leave the gun like this till I can get it out to a tuner =/ Don’t have the cash to buy a new vice atm =/
I also talked to Tony and he wanted me to confirm with a toilet paper test too, so I’ll see what options he gives me. Like I said the gun is brand new, still on warranty obviously. But to send it back JUST because of a small problem I can’t fix due to not having the right tools would be a waste. But at least the option is there…but I’m not worried because I know Ernest could easily fix it for me when I buy a tune (hopefully he’ll have time to take it soon)
I’ll report back in a few with toilet paper test, hope i have some clean rolls left :whistle:
Here are some pics from my R3M .22 The puff of air is more likely coming from the o-ring inside the barrel block behind that brass guide ring. I replaced the OEM o rings with a 1.6mmX5.1mm Viton 75 o-ring. I’ve been having good luck with this size and hardness o-ring. I think the OEM size is 1.5mmX5mm Buna N 70. I also bought some N90’s and will test at a later date.
This brass insert can be tricky to get out…I fashioned a puller from a cleaning rod….Donny said he used a micro flat head screw driver that he inserted in the grub screw hole and pushed out.
A sound advice ! That should be mandatory knowledge to everyone. :fishinghole:
Metal bolts threaded to aluminium without anti-seize is asking for trouble.
Just pick up a cheap wrench at Harbor Freight or Auto parts store for a few bucks so you won’t feel so bad when you have to grind down sides so its thin enough to fit on nut. Wrap breech in some heavy tape and use a big Crescent wrench to hold it and twist apart. A vice with plastic guard is optimal but when you need to fix it you can’t beat a Mexican socket set.
Don’t forget to clean threads on every single screw and use a bit of antisieze on threads and mating face of screw heads to aluminum. Makes putting back together and taking apart a breeze and greatly reduces chance of thread damage.
Also…the only way to get to that brass hole in the forward breech block is by removing the whole barrel/shroud huh? Do you absolutely need to have a vice to do it without damaging anything? I don’t have a 19mm wrench either. =/
Ed makes it look so simple with a vice and the right sized wrench. I’m kind of limited on my tool selection here, flood destroyed the garage where the vice was and most of the tools. I think I have the right size o-ring to easily replace it (if it’s even missing/damaged, can’t see inside too well..) but getting that shroud off without damaging anything without a vice might be hard…plus my wrench is a bit big but i could probably pick one up.
By the way, where in CT are you from? I used to live in Southington, CT and went to UCONN and CCSU. Moved to Orlando after working corporate for a few years after graduation.
I’m just outside New Haven 🙂 And you’re in FL now? I used to live in Sarasota/Bradenton 🙂 :rofl:
Okay so I just took the breech off, again, (scared of stripped my screws now too! i have bad luck lol) and I’m looking at the pic you posted, mine looks JUST like yours, except has a silver outline instead of black (behind the brass part) so I guess I’m missing an O-ring too? It looks like there is one inside of it when i shine a light, but I can’t tell without taking it off. I don’t want to get into taking everything apart just yet and maybe causing a bigger problem. I could live with this for a week or two until I send it out to get tuned and fixed..
Would you mind posting a pic of what it’s supposed to look like if you get a chance? Tomorrow, after I toilet paper and confirm its the same problem, I’ll post a pic of what mine looks like.
thanks
eaSTS, if you need O-rings let me know I’ll sent you some.
I use Permatex® Anaerobic Gasket Maker for connections on all my hoses and adapters. have never had it leak since . u can get it right at a auto parts store
East, the problem with mine was that my gun actually required a larger o-ring than the OEM. The OEM O-ring was a little bit smaller than what was needed so it blew out of the barrel. I sent it to Ernest to fix and tuned, he had to put in a bigger O-ring. I haven’t had any issues with it since. That leak also made my gun very loud.
By the way, where in CT are you from? I used to live in Southington, CT and went to UCONN and CCSU. Moved to Orlando after working corporate for a few years after graduation.
And yeah I saw the thread with Donny’s problem…but he also had a .25 cal and said it might be because there was “too much air being pushed” so I assumed it was beacuse mine is still at factory settings.
I’m going to do a couple toilet paper tests tomorrow too just to be sure it’s not that. hopefully I already have the right size O-ring, like I said, our hardware stores suck. The O-rings supplied look like they replace the fill probes, a cple giant ones for the air tube, and a really smaller one, maybe the one I need? That’s why I didn’t see it?
Either way I’m going to have this gun tuned sooner or later, so it’s not a HUGE issue, but when you spend $2k on a brand new gun it’s nice to have it working well :/
Follow link as advised. As far as fill adapter is concerned the one from PA is excellent. I have several. Just put Delrin seal inside and tighten it together real good. No need for Teflon tape if you tighten properly.
Where exactly in the breech? I took it off and looked, or are you referring to the one that went over the hole that the probe goes in to?
And yeah I saw the thread with Donny’s problem…but he also had a .25 cal and said it might be because there was “too much air being pushed” so I assumed it was beacuse mine is still at factory settings.
I’m going to do a couple toilet paper tests tomorrow too just to be sure it’s not that. hopefully I already have the right size O-ring, like I said, our hardware stores suck. The O-rings supplied look like they replace the fill probes, a cple giant ones for the air tube, and a really smaller one, maybe the one I need? That’s why I didn’t see it?
Either way I’m going to have this gun tuned sooner or later, so it’s not a HUGE issue, but when you spend $2k on a brand new gun it’s nice to have it working well :/
I have a .25 R3M but take a look at this thread. Has pictures of where the o-ring should be located.
http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=28653&start=40
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I made a non-marring hook from a piece of .25″ diameter delrin rod to remove the brass breech insert.
Remove the breech, remove the setscrew, and then insert the delrin “hook” into the groove where the o-ring used to be and slide the brass insert out.
Why Ed put the setscrew on the bottom of the breech block rather than the top I don’t know– for now I use a cut down 1.5mm allen key. One day I’ll remove the breech block and drill and tap the top so the setscrew is easy to access just by removing the bolt & breech.
I’m sure you could remove the brass insert with a small dental pick as well but if you slip you’ll scratch the brass insert.
Also, I’ve found that for the .25 R3M an ASA -010 sized o ring (0.239″ ID, 0.379″ OD, 0.070″, or 6.07mm ID x 9.62mm OD x 1.78mm) work perfectly. I’ve had a 75 durometer -010 Viton o-ring in my .25 R3M for about 3000 pellets now with zero issues. I launched two of them into oblivion when I was degassing the gun with a block of wood on the back of the hammer and the palm of my hand tapping that block of wood before I made a proper degassing tool.