R3M .25 cocking made easier TUNING Photos
All the metal moving parts and stationary parts that support them has been polish on the cocking bolt assembly. Only the high surface metal has been polish and the pitting/machine marking has the roll of keeping moly past grease in reserve. before I started all the parts has sharp edges and high gummy burrs surface. when done it sill has a tight tolerances no added wobble, it would take thousands of cocking to get it this smooth—>Time is short and have to brake her in NOW. Waiting on New cam lever from ridetoeat to complete the tune
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You guys are awesome! Mad respect….
Keep it coming.
This may be slightly off topic. But what is the best way to polish the bellevue washers???
Steeldreams, I have used Metal Gloss only on the trigger parts and the cocking handle probe. The Metal Gloss easily removes the coating on the trigger parts and really smoothes them out. I just use it long enough to get a smooth finish and then stop.
You could use it longer to remove the pits but, I would use a thick piece of tempered class and sheets of 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit wet or dry sandpaper, wet, if I needed to remove some metal. Try to work the piece in a figure 8 pattern so the piece will grind down flat. Just using a back and forth motion can cause the part to cock and not have a square surface after removing metal.
I use this machine to make sure the cam plate has a true flat surface, this is a 8″ diamond plate that is 1/2″ thick and use 320g , 600g, and 1200g and then polish at 50,000g with this process I know it has a true flat surface for the cam to ride on. Also I have the new degasser / reg puller tool. the one on the top has wider base and larger pulling handle, having 15 made for the members that was on the list, about two weeks till I get them.
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http://master-formula.com/Metal%20Polish.htm
I spent years going thru way too many different polishes on my Harleys; then I bought some Metal Gloss. It will easily polish an aluminum part until it reflects just like a mirror! On an flat aluminum surface, you could actually use it for a mirror! The sealant is supposed to be used every 6 months but; I did my Harley wheels 7 years ago, applied the sealant once and I could still see my reflection in the wheels when I sold the HD.
Metal Gloss is not just for aluminum, it has worked on any metals that I have tried it on. I have found that I only need to use the sealant on aluminum parts.
I use the Metal Gloss to polish my Matador trigger parts and it works really well without removing a noticeable amount of metal. I use the Metal Gloss and a felt tip in a Dremmel. It is kind of messy to use but it does a really great job of polishing.
I also use Metal Gloss to polish the bore in my barrels.
Ask HOOT how the R3 trigger that I tuned and polished worked out for him.
Tedd, have you tried this metal polish on the blued parts? What are the results?
Must I remove the pits and tool marks before I polish with this?
Thanks..
For you guys in the US that want a VERY good polish:
http://master-formula.com/Metal%20Polish.htm
I spent years going thru way too many different polishes on my Harleys; then I bought some Metal Gloss. It will easily polish an aluminum part until it reflects just like a mirror! On an flat aluminum surface, you could actually use it for a mirror! The sealant is supposed to be used every 6 months but; I did my Harley wheels 7 years ago, applied the sealant once and I could still see my reflection in the wheels when I sold the HD.
Metal Gloss is not just for aluminum, it has worked on any metals that I have tried it on. I have found that I only need to use the sealant on aluminum parts.
I use the Metal Gloss to polish my Matador trigger parts and it works really well without removing a noticeable amount of metal. I use the Metal Gloss and a felt tip in a Dremmel. It is kind of messy to use but it does a really great job of polishing.
I also use Metal Gloss to polish the bore in my barrels.
Ask HOOT how the R3 trigger that I tuned and polished worked out for him.
For polishing compund I use Autosol Metal polish(http://www.autosol.de)for almost everything except my teeth.
Dremel(s) I have so I may want to try that……
Thanks a million…!
Cheers
Trygve (wrapping gifts until his fingers get sore….. 😥 )
PS: Who the f….. decided present were a part of X-mas ???? 😈
I have no machinery nor do I have the skills, – but I want to polish too. How the f… do I do that ??? What do I use ? Any hints out there ???? 😀
Cheers
Trygve 😀
Just by a “Dremel” and a polishing kit from Biltema (http://www.biltema.se/sv/Verktyg/Slip-och-Kap/Multislip/Polerstift-12-st-20553/)
For polishing compund I use Autosol Metal polish(www.autosol.de)for almost everything except my teeth.
Well done.. That looks more like my actions when Im done..
Just a hint , dont over polish the flat surfaces such as the recess for the sliding cam/cocking drive pin by hand, just uses the two mating parts with the polishing compound (I use Autosole) and work them together with a bit of force adding more cutting paste as needed. this way it will work on only the necessary contact points and keep all parts square to each other. This method also works on the bolt and its bore..
Your action will be very slick when reassembled.. 😎
A not for others Who are considering this treatment, If you shoot your R3M approx 1500 shots it will self polish (run in) to the same feel as this.
After 1500 shots in mine I have now learned not to add molly grease until it is run in properly as this will stop any further natural polishing and your action will never be as smooth as it could have been with the correct run in procedure..
The action I molyed up prematurely (1000 pellets) will now be cleaned down and given this same hand polish treatment..
Damn dude that is serious !!! You wont have any problem polishing up your tuning cam lever !!!
I had to get by with 2 little hand stones and a $50 buffer from harbor freight i used to use to polish RC race car parts …….that machine is over the top !!!
its a Lapidary machine and don’t think you what to spend over $3000 just to polish your personal AG parts unless you want to make stone jewelry. Its made in USA by diamond pacific.
Ernest
So where do I get something like that? Home Depot? 😀
This photo is one of the machine. I use the 8″ water cooled diamonds embedded within a tough, flexible plastic resin and backed by soft, thick rubber. This soft, flexible construction enables the surface of the Wheel to conform to the shape of the parts that is being polish. polishing grits on he right are 1200, 3000, 50,000, on the left wheels are metal diamond wheels I use the 600grit to remove sharp edges, also water cooled so no wanted heat on the metal parts. On the bore of the cocking bolt I used 50,000 Diamond resin cylinder, on the sharp edges in the breech I used 1200g Diamond metal cylinders. I’m sure there are other ways to polish metal but I’m using what I already have in hand from my other hobby’s.
Ernest
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I have no machinery nor do I have the skills, – but I want to polish too. How the f… do I do that ??? What do I use ? Any hints out there ???? 😀
Cheers
Trygve 😀
I polished in the action with a 320 and then a 600 stone for polishing steel dies or molds and then i go to 1000 wet paper with a little rem oil when finishing. For the other parts i have a cheap little buffer that looks like a pint sized bench grinder and used it on the retaining plate. Ernest went a little further than I but i am going to do more as i think i was too conservative buy wanted to sneak up on it, i need more work. Mine felt 30% better or so and i expected more.
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Mini-sonic Tumbler with 1000g Silicon Carbide with plastic pellets for 6 hours, then buff with felt with green rough with a dermal, like polishing gun shell casing for even polishing.