Q:

Shoebox compressor tricks mods for big bore /other gun guys

OK as some of you know on here , i have now well over 200 hours on my shoebox compressor , i wanted you guys to get some inside scoop tricks ,mods that i have learned/come up with so far on running this compressor , i have a ton of hours wrenching on this compressor , also talking to Tom K on the phone a lot , I am a part of his R&D testing /running of the shoebox since i have a ton of cylinders ,and shooting big bore airguns using a ton of air , he has been helping out with things/parts to try out, and test,

OK I think the most important thing you can do is elign the piston rods ,to the cylinder bore holes , and reshape the end of the pistons and polish them , VERY CRITICAL MODS !

Start off by taking the pistons ,and cylinders off, take all the parts out of them / orings check valve , then bore sight the alignment on the pistons to the cylinder bore , you can do this by moving the pistons all the way back on the stroke out , then putting the cylinders back into the main block with all the orings and check valves out so you can see all the way through the cylinder , look through the check valve side of the cylinder use a light behind the other side so you can see how the piston rod alignment to the cylinder hole that it goes back in forth in , now if the alignment is off , you can loosen up the billet block and move it a little until the piston rods are lined up/centered with the cylinder holes, then tighten up the block turn the pistons by hand to make sure everything looks straight , then tighten the block back up

OK now a very VERY CRITICAL mod to do to the pistons , you want to make the front edge of the piston rods look like a round nosed flat point bullet ! here is the deal …..the front of the piston from what i have seen so far is cut flush squared on the end …..this part front of the piston goes in and out of the 1st oring , the second oring the piston shaft stays in it the whole time it runs , so if you have a tapered front piston shaped like a round nose bullet it will go in and out of the oring WAY SMOOTHER ! instead of having a sharp edged bashing it’s way in and out causing failure a lot sooner of the critical 1st oring ,

OK let’s mod the piston , i have come up with a very easy way to do this , before you take out the piston use a long caliper to measure how far it is sticking out of the billet block that it is mounted on { very important to measure this -before you remove them, so you can put them back in at the same length }

after you take them out , put the side that was mounted in the aluminum block in a hand held electric drill , now take a flat file, lay it flat on a bench , then take ,and spin the piston rod with the drill at a slight angel and start grinding shaping the end of the piston rod on the file to make the front of it look like a round nose with a small center flat point ,change the angle as you grind to make a nice rounded smooth bullet shape to it .
you can hold the piston with a rag on it while it is spinning to put pressure on it against the file while shaping it.

once you have a decent rounded shape using the file , then use some 400-500 grit sand on that area you just shaped by spinning the rod in the paper in your hand to smooth it out , then switch over to 1000-1500 grit paper now spin the piston rod again this time not only smooth the bullet shaped end out but also smooth the whole piston rod out by spinning the piston and moving the ultra fine sand paper back , and forth polishing the piston rod up real good , this ultra smooth finish with tapered bullet shaped end , with correct piston rod alignment, will make the o’rings last way WAY LONGER ! ! 😉 😆

Other Guns

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 41 total)

1 2 3

The shoe box has come a long way since this thread ….I still have this machine up and running we did replace the entire center aluminum block and pistons /cylinder new system using silicone lube … also a new belt drive system instead of the old chain system … this machine has well over a thousand hours on it original motor works perfect ….

quote LURKER #1:

Would it help to cool the filled tank valve down, and then bleed any water out?

The shoebox charges slow so there is no heat build up , at the tank valve .

Would it help to cool the filled tank valve down, and then bleed any water out?

I have the same problem. I think the water is coming from the shoebox”s heat from compressing the air. I don’t know how to filter the HPA but that is where my problem is if it is a problem. My bleeder spits a little but I really don’t think it is hurting my guns. I don’t think it is enough to worry about. I am going to turn my tank up and crack a valve and see how much comes out.

quote roachcreek:

Dan,

Is it possible to put a filter on the intake of these little Pancake compressors, if so I would just add another filter like I have, I have 10 of them. I think I will go get another 20 feet of yellow hose, put a filter on each end and do the bucket trick, maybe not ice, but at least some cold water.

Keeping that compressor tank empty of water seems to help also, I notice that instead of both filters turning pink, now the first one is the only one to turn pink. And my bleed valve is not spitting water now.

My pistons have the wire edge removed so they go in easy unless I get them misaligned.

Regards,

Roachcreek

run all filters on the air compressed side , that will have the most effect .

it’s raining today ! dam rain ! i got to wait for a break to test some more bullets out .

Dan,

Is it possible to put a filter on the intake of these little Pancake compressors, if so I would just add another filter like I have, I have 10 of them. I think I will go get another 20 feet of yellow hose, put a filter on each end and do the bucket trick, maybe not ice, but at least some cold water.

Keeping that compressor tank empty of water seems to help also, I notice that instead of both filters turning pink, now the first one is the only one to turn pink. And my bleed valve is not spitting water now.

My pistons have the wire edge removed so they go in easy unless I get them misaligned.

Regards,

Roachcreek

quote idontknowjack:

That second orange unit is an automatic air oiler and should be removed from your set-up.

ya and it’s now a second water trap 😉 you just have to know what you are really doing 😆

That second orange unit is an automatic air oiler and should be removed from your set-up.

quote roachcreek:

And where do you get a HPA side water trap?

Dan would you post a picture of your filters?

And no I don’t seem to have water in the tanks, scba or the gun from checking or the yellow line by draining and blowing the entire tank thru the hose, but again it was spitting air out from the bleed hose so WTF.

It could have been left over from when I used only 1 fitler and was moisture that got past it. Also when I first found out about it, I drained the compressor tank, and that may of been where it came from and all the yellow hose moisture got caught by the trap by the time I checked the rest of the equipment.

Seems to work now without spitting.

But I do have a question? Do you loose air pressure from having so many filters on the low pressure side, my little pancake struggles as it is?

Regards,

Roachcreek

Charlie have you polished up those pistons and reshaped them on the end yet ?

on my airline set up, here are some pics , you can see the tall blue air filter i just bought that one from Harbor Freight , i am going to add it to the system ,with one more air-line that will go up from the desiccant filters and orange water trap that are usually at floor level { i put the filters up on the bench just for pics} then go up to bench level then back down to floor level conecting to the new blue filter , this will create to u shaped up and down water trap areas , i run that dual fan set up one blowing on the piston area with a metal plate at the end to help build air pressure just a bit for the electric motor , also the fan is turned on behind the shoebox so it blows air directly on the motor keeping it real cool .

the blue water trap is on sale for 14 bucks ! great deal , that one is a water trap with a nice air filter in it and the air filter is re-usable , i might even fill this one full of desiccant -turning into a giant desiccant filter .

You won’t loose pressure but you will loose through-put. You’ll have initial low pressure until the pre shoebox set up comes up to pressure, then it should all equalise. Then a reduced flow rate and increased strain on the comp’ motor. If the flow rate drops below the demand rate from the shoebox, then a pressure drop will occur.

And where do you get a HPA side water trap?

Dan would you post a picture of your filters?

And no I don’t seem to have water in the tanks, scba or the gun from checking or the yellow line by draining and blowing the entire tank thru the hose, but again it was spitting air out from the bleed hose so WTF.

It could have been left over from when I used only 1 fitler and was moisture that got past it. Also when I first found out about it, I drained the compressor tank, and that may of been where it came from and all the yellow hose moisture got caught by the trap by the time I checked the rest of the equipment.

Seems to work now without spitting.

But I do have a question? Do you loose air pressure from having so many filters on the low pressure side, my little pancake struggles as it is?

Regards,

Roachcreek

OK i put another 14 hours on my machine , so now right at 254 total run time on my compressor

on my new bullet shaped- ultra fine sanded- on the end pistons , i have now 38 hours total with no leaks when tested with soapy water at where the pistons go into the cylinder under pressure , this is the longest i have ran the machine with no air bubbles coming out of the piston to cylinder area when tested with soapy water , this will be intersting to see how long this continues to work like this .

you can have some air bubbles at the piston to cylinder point and still have the machine able to charge to 4500 psi , but i know it will be working better with out the leaking going on , my oiless-compressor and shoe box are at the same level on a bench , i let 20ft of hose hang down to the floor where my dual water trap -plus 2 desiccant filters inline are , then another 20 ft of hose going from the floor area back up to feed the shoebox , this is u shaped down and up set up is helping keep the water from reaching the compressor .

No water in the tanks? Maybe the curent set up is doing enough(I doubt it) to keep moisture to a min then. Just a little at the bottom of the tank and when turned over, not enough to pool and vent out? Hmmmmm. I suspect your rifles are getting a fair amount of moisture if the tank bleed pisses out water.
You have filters on the low pressure side, but the temp’ will increase a fair bit on the high pressure side. This is the side that may benefit from the bucket of ice on the hose, follwed by a moisture/water trap then filter. Simple trap would be a bleed in the hose and the hose looping down low at the bleed point.

I went with that big yellow monster desiccant dryer from HF. Holds way more desiccant than those little plastic jobbies. Also could try more hose maybe 50ft or so right after the compressor.

Slayer there are hpa dryers but they cost alot.

Things are kind of cluttered there right now, usually I have all the bullet casting and booster stuff put away so that I am only using one thing at a time.

I sat those tanks on end for a few hours and tired to drain any water out by cracking the valves open while upsidedown, I blew the air into a cloth, but no sign of mosture.

I then put the pancake on the bench and ired the same thing with it, by blowing air out the hose while it was on the floor, no water again.

Regards,

Roachcreek

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 41 total)

1 2 3
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.