Shrink fit frame-valve collar
Well, my collar in the back of the frame has always been a tad loose and the grubscrew holding dimple has become elongated
So….
Im planning on making a stainless steel threaded bushing with much better tolerances and will be fully threaded so that the bottle is held by much more threads than the normal 1.5 turns of the original.
One thing though, Ideally, I would want to shrink fit the bushing in place, but I don’t want to start waving the blowtorch around the frame so I was wondering if sticking the bushing in the freezer would shrink it enough to be a slight press fit in the frame, but at normal temperatures it would return to size and be a tight fit, and then still use the grubscrew for added security.
If this is not possible, what are the tolerances for a goor press fit, I don’t fancy using a large press on the frame and would go for the “Lump of wood and a good hammer” method?
Thanks
Dave
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My collar hasn’t loosened yet but my tank tightens in at very little more than one turn of thread holding it in place.
I’d very much like to buy a collar with several turns to mount the tank.
Or, could an adapter using 2 or more studs that would lock into detentes in a collar with only a 1/4 turn be possible???
“Perjuring the English language”? No I do not think there is any danger of that…LOL
Yup-
I know one thing for sure, and that would be the nature of these black/darkside guns
and that would be the scope way up there above the bore, makes sighting in at a
specific distance more touchy by all means.
Think I am gonna ditch the tri rail cause it only makes things even worse.
These guns are great as far as versatility but that damned top rail really messes up a good thing.
SAW
dude, if you don’t like my definitions then go make up your own. If you don’t like my definitions then don’t read my posts, which, by the way, I made up too, all by myself. If you think my command of english, or the lack of it, is in danger of perjuring the english language, then petition the fucking president, I’m sure he’ll put it at the top of his list of things to do this week.
Many of us have been shooting for years. That is why we know when you just are making up your own definitions
Dave
Afraid not. It’s not the sight picture I’m worried about, its the parallax error. .
Parallax error from the height the scope is mounted? That does not cause a parallax error.
Hahaha, technically yes, but you are too closed minded. If it were possible to shoot the weapon as is, freeze it without moving it to unmount the scope and lower the mounting position, then it WOuLD be parallax error. but, it serves well enough as a principle to catch the nature of the problem.
The real problem, of course, is alignment of the scope line of sight, which is as straight as light beams happen to be in your corner of the universe, versus the trajectory of the fired pellet, or external ballistics of the fired round. I loosely term it parallax error but of course it’s not. But, any shooter who has been around for awhile will know what I’m talking about. some folks I know just won’t buy a scope (on powderburners) if they can’t mount it at least 1.5″ or less on their gun. Yes, its that important. And our condors with a trirail comes in at 3.4″?????
it came loose on my rifle too….a set screw from the top down through the raid did not help….neither did 2 from the sides….titanium epoxy though…and the 2 screws, bottom and side…it has not moved since
why 2 screws…if you do 4 like i did in the beginning the collar rests on the ends of the setscrews….small area….if you push it from bottom and side it has a much better friction hold on the frame….and the epoxy will have much better adherence
regular epoxy will do well too….if you need to remove the collar just heat it a bit and the epoxy will let go again
my tophat allways get a bit of super glue as well….when needed to ajust i just hold it over a candle with a bit of torsion on it once hot enough it will turn….once cool be stuck again….perfect !
Dave
Afraid not. It’s not the sight picture I’m worried about, its the parallax error. .
Parallax error from the height the scope is mounted? That does not cause a parallax error.
Tits up is not a bad think Dave 😆
The suggestion for getting an E-Tac was regarding having a flush weaver rail I was on about above the statement.
I agree that the scope is WAYYY to high, without a tri-rail and a 50mm objective 30mm tube, My scope centre line to bore centre line is 2.8 inches.
Still WAY too high, I think I might buy another frame to do the modification incase it all goes tits up 😀
Dave
Dave
Afraid not. It’s not the sight picture I’m worried about, its the parallax error. The high mounting of the scope does this. etac does nothing to correct parallax. On my gun, with trirail and a 30mm scope, the scope centerline is around 3.4″ from the barrel centerline (this is the measurement I use in the ballistics programs). If I sight in for 21 yards (the longest distance in my yard), my bullet is STILL RISING out to near 40yds (just over 1″ high) and does not cross below line of sight again until a tad under 60 yds. this means I have to constantly keep in mind the range, and figure out where I have to shoot with kentucky windage, flipping positive and negative values if inside or outside 60, between 40 and 60, etc etc… I hate this. Doing a single calculation for drop compensation on a gun with a scope at, say, 1.5″ above the bore line is MUCH simpler, and is the way I was raised so is 2nd nature for me.
For fitting the collar you can “Bed” it just like an action in a stock.
Cheers Walt, Boiling water will do the trick nicely.
I was also thinking about totally removing the scope rail, mill dovetails into the underside of a weaver rail, then drill and tap to the rail in front and behiend the loading port.
Im going to convert it to a side cocker anyways when I get a mill.
Just get an E-Tac to drop the tank for a good comftorable sight picture.
Dave
Your frame is tempered to T6 value. If I remember right, tempering can begin as low as around 400 deg f. I’d probably not heat it much more than around 200f or thereabouts just to be on the safe side. since water boils at a convenient 212f, perhaps you could just put it into boiling water to heat it.
Keep in mind that section of the frame is exactly the most highly stressed, so it’s a good idea to be really careful. One mod I have been thinking of, off and on for the past year, is to cut off the top rail entirely and weld up the loading port, change to a sidecocker design with a much smaller port and weld up the entire area to make it stiffer so it would not require a top rail at all… then switch to a small tank like what the Edge has (although I’ve already purchased a 1.5″ titanium tube that I was going to make into a small tank for this design). Yeah yeah yeah, but these designs have been floating around in my head longer than the Edge has been in production or announced. end product will be a low scope mount like on a normal gun to get rid of the horrible parallax problem…. but give up tons of shots. but in my hunting style I never need more than a half dozen shots anyway.
aloha,
walt[/u]
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I know one thing for sure, and that would be the nature of these black/darkside guns
and that would be the scope way up there above the bore, makes sighting in at a
specific distance more touchy by all means.
Think I am gonna ditch the tri rail cause it only makes things even worse.
These guns are great as far as versatility but that damned top rail really messes up a good thing.
SAW
Saw is right on with that I kind of saw that when I first got my Condor and seen some having just that problem even without the tri rail the scope sits high and adding anything to that is asking for just more problems!