Smoothing out the action?
Hey Guys,
Anyone have any recommendations for smoothing out the action? At times that last centimeter or so that you push the bolt forward to load the pellet and lock the bolt down seems to require an inordinate amount of force.
Usually when Im just fucking around or shooting paper I don’t really care, but yesterday I was shooting birds and it was kind of annoying to have to take my eye off the scope and rack the shit out of the cocking handle to get the thing to load.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Rob
All Replies
to me it seems it is the fat spring the problem when the cocking bold is pushed forward, I took off the side panel and see how it is hard to compress, with or without pellet DOES NOT MATTER.
will customize it if think some RC car shock absorber spring or so might just fit
Good thing your aren’t looking down the other end!! :4:
Fuxineering thought…..
Maybe we need to consider bedding the cocking rod’s spacer at the rod and breach body interfaces.
Coat both the rod and breach body with release compound. Bed with pellet probe and rod forward, but with the screws only partially tensioned.
That would help lock it in the right alignment. Course, would be a PITB if the epoxy got into threads or seized up the breach body.
Looking at a seated pellet via a mirror, I can see that my pellet probe engages the pellet slightly off center. Amazing that the gun shoots so well despite this.
my pellet probe has got a bit of wear on its bottom, need to check alignement too.
Good point Guyko on having the pellet probe seated…… :8: :8:
Just like Lurker said, lubing the o-ring, tightening the breach body screws, cleaning the breach barrel and body, using moly on the breach body and just the cocking lever contact points, the action on my 22 is nice and smooth.
A couple more tips:
Have the cocking knob locked forward while placing the two screws that hold the cocking rod to the breach body. That ensures the pellet probe is engaged with the barrel and self-centered while the rod is tightened down. Otherwise, you may tension the breach body and rod slightly canted, throwing off pellet probe/barrel alignment. If the probe and barrel are out of alignment, you definitely get an extra resistance pushing forward. Also, you’ll notice witness marks worn into the pellet probe.
Check the four screws holding the cocking knob guide plate (the one with the u shaped groove). After a while, those can work loose and let the plate wiggle about as you cock the gun. A tiny bit of moly or dry lube at the u-groove sliding surfaces helps. The cocking rod assembly should be free enough that spring tension (without you pushing forward) pushes the rod forward until the probe begins to engage the barrel. If there is more sliding resistance than that, something is awry.
If you have a custom delrin bushing, check that it isn’t too long and running into the HST adjuster when the gun is being cocked. If they run into each other, it can be very hard to cock the gun or lock it in the rear position. A similar problem with cocking happens if the cocking rod is adjust too long for length.
I guess every gun is different!
Caiman, what Hoot: said about lube is almost true. You want to use dry lube on your pellets but NEVER on your girlfriend!! NEVER! She’ll squeak when she walks…..
I’ll have to check those screws.
Hoot, I’ve put three thousand+ pellets through the gun, so I hardly think that lack of shooting is the issue.
I put a few drops of mac1 secret sauce around where the bolt slides forward and backward, and it seems to have at least partially mitigated the problem. I did this prior to seeing the suggestions about dry lube. Hopefully this doesn’t fuck anything up to bad. Although I seem to remember that the gun did have oil in there when I first got it.
Anyway, we’ll see how things progress from here.
PELLET SEATING
IN THE BEGINNING…….
Yes, when we recognize and follow the clues we can get a better idea of the forces that sometimes oppose us.
Most of us only heard of two very important clues that lead to further improvements of a great bullpup rifle.
1 was the muzzle noise that was quickly improved by the manufacturer putting out a better shroud baffle design. That, with the help of H00T, was modded even better.
2nd was the Cocking Rod breakage that Evengy quickly supplied improved replacements for.
So following this important clue of part breakage I analyzed WHAT could have contributed to the early cocking rod breaking ❓
Of course it broke at its weakest point where it gets the Most Stress ❗
The one we know of broke at the forward of two screw holes that connect it to the Breech Body. The Breech Body should be guided precisely centered into the pellet and pushing it as evenly as possible into the breech refiling. But being offset from the cocking rod, if there is resistance it will skew slightly putting a bending pressure on the forward mounting screw. Probably not much bending on the forward stroke but considering there was a lot more bending pressure in the opposite direction on the rearward stroke as the Breech Body is used to pull the Cocking Lever and the Hammer to the rear stretching the Lever Spring while compressing the Hammer Spring. Thus a slight flaw of design in the early Cocking Rod led to some breaking at its most stressed and weakest point.
The importance of this CLUE is to be aware of potential skewing of the Breech Body. Two of us have found a loose mounting screw and noticeable wear of the back portion of the Brass Breech Body. That was why I posted to check the mounting screws for tightness and to clean and lubricate the Breech Body and area. A loose screw would cause more wear And More Severe Breech Body SKEWING ❗ Add that to wrong or bad Breech O-Ring or lacking proper lube, overcoming other mechanism spring tension, and newness (rough metal to metal sliding surfaces), and you have a little difficulty closing the breech.
It’s not a design fault ❗
Quality air rifles have more parts than powder burners but are cleaner and less expensive to shoot accurately.
Plus what Hoot: said = 3 cents worth.
Anyone have any recommendations for smoothing out the action? At times that last centimeter or so that you push the bolt forward to load the pellet and lock the bolt down seems to require an inordinate amount of force.
Usually when Im just fucking around or shooting paper I don’t really care, but yesterday I was shooting birds and it was kind of annoying to have to take my eye off the scope and rack the shit out of the cocking handle to get the thing to load.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Rob
:hoot:
Rob….rob….rob…..
Time and movement will smooth out the situation with new, tight O-rings in the breech. Don’t diddle with half-assed measures, just use the damn thing! As the action “seats” itself over time, everything will become buttery smooth. It’s new! There is a break-in period, and that may take two or three tins to begin to see results.
The guys made some good suggestions, all of which are nice but not necessary to achieve the same end. The time to start worrying is when you no longer feel any resistance when seating the pellet in the breech…as that means the O-rings are getting worn, or have popped out of place.
You can take the entire gun apart and polish the action and if that’s your thing…then do it. But, don’t over-lube!!! Excess lube collects dust, lead particles, and tiny chunks of gnat shit that will eventually gum up the action. Less is good, dry is better…dry lube at any rate.
That’s my two cents worth.
Hoot:
I´m using this stuff for bicycle chain. It´s dry lube maybe also use to action.
Try a dry lube, I use One Shot spray and they seat real easy.
The biggest problem I have is in the last bit of setting the pellet into the barrel. Thats seems very tight. I often had to push it with momentum to get it done. Hoot says this is good because it means tight seating of the pellet in the barrel. Is this something that improves with time too? and if so how and why? Does the barrel opening get smoother? Can I speed up the process without the need to shoot 2000 pellets first?
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I can see a dent on the skirt.
Why do you think that the fact that the probe engages the pellet slightly off center can affect accuracy?