Swapped out barrel on my Talon and now it’s harder to cock?
I’ve done some barrel swaps before and never had any trouble. Picked up a used .177 barrel some time back. Rifle is still very consistent, there is just some resistance when cocking. Any ideas?
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what’s this black rubber washer I’m hearing about, and were is it inside?
is it suppose to be in front of the wheel next to the bushing to act as a barring?… anywhere else in there just doesn’t make any sense to me.
You checked the part where it is turned down?
Also, did you relube the turned down part and did your original barrel have the turned down part polished?
I noticed all my barrels felt a little different when cocking the breech yet their poi’s were really close. 😕
Some silicone made things move better for all of them… I ended up polishing most of the small ends of the my barrels, some were pretty rough actually.
0.115″ undersized is huge! Almost 1/8 of an inch… 😯 😕 By my calculations a 0.05″ (1/2 of the diameter difference) misalignment at the bushings is over a 14″ poi change at 50 yards… 😯 😯 😯
Well, I checked the barrel diameter and they are the same.
As stated above, the bushing was .115″ undersized and I replaced it with one of the originals.
When I took the barrel back out to change bushing, there was a thin, black rubber washer that had folded up. I straightened it back out but it was creased.
It’s better now but there is still more resistance than originally.
Check the diameter of the barrel where the breech slides. I’ll bet they are different and thus the resistance… 😉
glad to hearr you got it sorted out. 😀
I just measured the old barrel bushing compared to the new and there is a .115″ difference in diameter. I’m sure that’s the issue. I’ll get it changed out tonight.
As an aside, I really like this rifle. Modular, adjustable, easy to work on. It’s like the AR15 of airguns.
Paul
X3 💡
Makes sense, I’ll check it.
x2 check to make sure the back bushing is the same size as the front one, that was going on with my stock 24 incher with the shitty delrin bushings from a/f. it will cant the barrel
Or if the bushings are under sized it would push the barrel up and to the right causing the breech to rub also.
actually, a bushing could cause the problem. if it’s under sized the barrel will be off center, to the point of binding the breech against the inside of the frame.
Bushings might have something to do with it. I wondering if you have a bad oring in the breech. They are a pain to replace but might as well while you have it apart or at least confirm that they are still in place and look like they aren’t worn or crimped from the barrel swap. Put some silicone grease on the outside tip of the breech end of the barrel as you slide it back in, this will lube the front oring.
If you a a caliper take a measurement of the outside diameter of the beech end of the barrel. I really doubt that you have two different sizes but it would be good to confirm.
Nope, I just slid the old barrel out and the new barrel in.
I used the rear bushing that came on the new barrel but used my threaded front bushing for the shroud.
I’ll pull it apart and check it out. Thanks for the input.
Paul
The only thing that it could be, unless you did something to the breech, is that the breech end of the new barrel is a bit larger than your old barrel or you damaged an O-ring. Try a bit of silcine grease on the two o-rings inside the breech to see if it loosens up a bit. Of not, take your breech out to examine and change the o-rings if necessary.
Did you do anything else other than change the barrel out? Take the power wheel, spring or hammer out? Did you clean the inside up while you had it apart?
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is it suppose to be in front of the wheel next to the bushing to act as a barring?… anywhere else in there just doesn’t make any sense to me.
Yep, that’s where it was. I don’t think it was part of the problem but that undersized bushing was the culprit along with a lack of lube. I’ll hit it with some silicone lube this evening.
Paul