talon ss misfire issue
Looking for get an answer to a misfire problem.
I have a Talon which will fire with greatly reduced velocity when it has been left cocked for an extended period of time such as when hunting. The last time it occurred the pellet did not exit the barrel. This only happens the first shot. Any subsequent shots are normal.
Talon is stock. No changes, no mods.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance for the help.
All Replies
OK, I have to break out my Hunter adjustment tool and see what he’s talking about.
Ted, specifically what part of the SS disassembly is facilitated by the Hunter adjustment tool?
One last note. The adjustment tool that comes with Hunter PGP irrigation heads is perfect for disassembling a talon. Easy to carry around with pellets etc.
Solved the issue. The rubber washer was in the wrong place. It must have been hanging up because it was between the spring and hammer. I put it in the order mrnewbie suggested and the issue is gone…. 100% no misfires.
Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions. I am back to enjoying this now.
Any ideas on moderators? Or do I move to another area to ask?
this will cause a bit of play in the PW, however…
My Talon had a rubber washer in it and it kept working it’s way into everything and jamming the hammer. Throw it away, it does nothing of benefit. Even those little white rings on each end of the thumb wheel can dislodge and cause problems, throw them away also.
Pull the top-hat and stem out of the bottle, you don’t have to drain the tank. You can use a screwdriver and the end of the needle nose to lever it out, place them under the top-hat. Check the stem to see how shiney and smooth it looks, if it looks good put some silicone on it, a dab and smooth it around, about a 1/4 in. from bottom of top-hat. Pop it back in and shoot it a few times. If the stem looks to need polishing chuck the end of the top-hat in a drill, but not real tight or you will deform top-hat like I have done, anyway, take some polishing compuond and a rag and polish stem down from top-hat to the stem holes and polish it good. Then make sure it is clean and put a dab of silicone grease on it and smooth it around. If it does it again later pop it out and clean it and put a dab of fresh grease on it. I did this quite a few times with one of my tanks untill it was so smooth it’s like butter now.
Could the rubber washer that is part of hammer & spring assembly be somehow hanging up the spring action? Can I get a washer made of an alternative material? Anybody ever swapped these rubber washers out?
It seems a chrony will provide valuable info here so I will order one.
Thanks again for all the info so far.
My older gun has one of those washers also, but maybe yours is in the wrong place?
The washer in mine goes between the rear barrel bushing and the Power wheel assembly.
So Barrel …rubber washer …power wheel…spring…hammer weight …breech.
rubber washer???
unless you have an aftermarket hammer with a “slap mod” then there shouldn’t be anything rubber in the hammer area. if you do have a slap mod then it’s just an oring milled and glued into the end of the hammer which will reduce some velocity, but shouldn’t be doing what your describing.
I think you should tare it back down and take some pics for us to see, show them in order or lined up how everything comes out of the frame
Took a while to get back with my response, work took over life for a while.
Here is what I did to try to resolve the issue.
1 – test fire to see if any air leaking…small tissue did not move more than hammer action moved it, no air seems to be escaping past tophat or o-rings.
2 – took apart and cleaned the frame, spring, hammer etc…when reassembled I noticed reduced play in the breech knob when fully “cocked”. Things were looking up but no change……..still getting dud shots maybe 2-3 of 20 are severely reduced in power. I made sure that breech knob was in correct position before firing all shots.
Could the rubber washer that is part of hammer & spring assembly be somehow hanging up the spring action? Can I get a washer made of an alternative material? Anybody ever swapped these rubber washers out?
It seems a chrony will provide valuable info here so I will order one.
Thanks again for all the info so far.
my piss in the wind would be that after leaving cocked a long time, the spring temporarily loses enough tension to open that first(highest pressure) shot, in effect creating valve lock.
some dry teflon lube inside the frame and on the hammer will help things slide, but a little goes a long way so just a light coat. and yes cold aluminum contracts 😉
btw – welcome to the deep end of the shallow pool that is the world we call TaG… lots of good people that have a wealth of knowledge on the a/f line of painkillers! take a look in the quick reference section, lots of questions can be answered in there as well as a bunch of good info that every owner of an a/f should be privy to :thumb:
More info……
The gun is three years old, purchased new.
I have not had any issues until this one. Performance has been steady and even.
It gets used often. Both targets and hunting so # shots fired can vary per use.
There does not seem to be any play between hammer and tophat. The breech knob is snug when it is cocked.
I will clean the hammer & frame and lubricate the breech o rings and see what that does for the issue.
Does any lubricant help the spring slide smoothly? What about cold weather can that play a part in the issue? The frustrating part is that the problem does not repeat…only for the first shot.
I’ll try the suggested changes and be back.
Thanks for the info. Have fun.
That used to happen to me all too often. I missed several critters from a light hammer strike/low pressure shot. WOK recommended that I increase the hammer spring preload, (aka, increase the power setting). This worked well. So, try either, or both. Do you have a chronograph? It would be interesting to see what your gun is doing numbers wise. Is this a new gun, or did you buy it used? I guess that it doesn’t make much difference as even new guns can have garbage in them that needs to be cleaned out. Have you placed any diver’s silicone lubricant on the breech “O” rings yet? That helps seal the breech and reduce the velocity robbing blowby that happens with these guns. You’re gonna get soo hooked.
Good Luck and post back your results. :tag:
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When you purchase a case of Hunter PGP Turf Irrigation heads a small tool is included. It is an Allen wrench with a plastic top. Since the wrench is formed into the plastic top you cannot over tighten any parts. Fits the plastic power wheel screw and the stock screws perfectly.
Here is a link:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B000678LJY/ref=dp_image_0/188-1780662-3022625?ie=UTF8&n=2972638011&s=lawn-garden
I installed irrigation systems for a living, ended up with dozens.
Necessity is the mother of invention. I misplaced my Allen wrenches and used one of these instead. By chance it fit some of the Talon SS grub screws. The Allen wrenches that came with the scopes I purchased fit everything else.
Have fun.
Ted