This isn’t good…
I’ve been meaning to ask about this for sometime. This is getting worse, and am wondering how to remedy it. For some reason the cocking knob stem is making a indention on the front part of the slot where you lock it over. It’s actually putting a dent of sorts on the frame edge, with a big burr sticking up. Is the knob stem being slammed forward during the firing cycle to do this? There is a ever so slight play fore and aft with the breach. Just want to keep this from getting worse… any suggestions appreciated!
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Turn a bunch and sell them I’ll take one
I made him a little flanged bushing of brass.
have to take a pic of what I think the breech slide oughta look like 🙂
Walter….
Be interested in what you got, a simple, effective solution to this seems to be something that more than a few of us could benefit from.
Hopefully Randy will chime in here and show what it looks like and comment on how it worked for him. 🙂
Thanks eh?
I’ll turn one up and see what you think. Very simple and anyone with a lathe is good to go!
Cheers,
Walter….
I made him a little flanged bushing of brass.
have to take a pic of what I think the breech slide oughta look like 🙂
Walter….
Be interested in what you got, a simple, effective solution to this seems to be something that more than a few of us could benefit from.
RandyHub’s condor was missing the bushing likely plastic so it broke.
I made him a little flanged bushing of brass.
have to take a pic of what I think the breech slide oughta look like 🙂
Walter….
Yeah I always thought it was good to put it lock position to make sure the breach stays stationary?
@ Black Sabbot… yes I think you have a good idea, a o-ring like you said, or maybe some kind of rubber sleeve/tubing that would act as a cushion with some give, as opposed to a hard piece of plastic/delrin that would just shatter or break over time. Tubing/hose ect with the right ID/OD that you could just slip on the top part of the stem, just below the knob.
Any danger in that practice?
Maybe Im bad but I rarely if ever lock my breech to the side. I just pull it back firmly onto the top hat just before I take a shot.
I am sure all AF guns get a little beat up here as the breech rebounds the cocking knob into the rear of the frame with the closing of the valve with every shot taken. I would also assume that for every .001″ you adjust your top hat out, you hammer the rear of your frame another .001″ forward.
Looks like a perfect place, at least on the newer 1-piece cocking knobs, to cut a small locating groove for a small dia. yet thick 90 durometer o-ring to alleviate or at least slow down some of the frame damage. It wouldn’t affect the guns performance in any way as it seems to me that as long as the breech seals during firing it doesn’t need rigid metal-to-metal contact to function properly. I wish the breech had a more positive feeling to it when closed anyway.
Maybe a tuner/machinist/expert will chime in with their thoughts here?
Kinda sucks to have one the most expensive parts of the gun being beat to death with every shot!
Mine has never had the cocking knob taken off and it has no sleeve on it, but yet there are marks on my frame from the cocking bolt hitting it. And I got my Talon SS from Airhog.
UR Welcome! :7
Oh man…. no drummer emoticons? LOL
Saug,
UR Welcome! :7
Guys thanks for bringing up the ‘sleeve’ deal for the knob screw. As far as I know, my gun never had one, and if it did, it must have broke off before I even knew it was there. So, like shrpshoter said, the bare threads on the knob screw have been hitting the frame, making the indentions. I’ll be putting a fix to this soon that should help slow down the wear.
Had I known the gun was supposed to have this sleeve to begin with, I wouldn’t have been as surprised at the wear on frame, and would have dealt with it earlier.
WOK, are you saying that is what is causing the splaying at the back of his frame? I just looked at my Condor, which has never had the cocking knob removed from it. Well, not until about 1:22 ago after I read this post and had to see what you were refering to. I don’t see that the cocking knob has sleeve on it. I see a fillet machined from the threads to the body of the cocking knob, but that’s it.
Did AF maybe change at some point from a two piece knob (body with threaded rod) that required a sleeve over the remaining threads to a one-piece knob machined from one piece of material? Seems like might be the case, as all of the thread on my knob is in the breach when installed.
……………or am I just missing something?
I’d say you are correct. I have a nearly new Condor here and it is a one piece metal knob with the rubber cover, all threads go into the breech. however all the other af guns i’ve had were a piece of delrin w/ a 10/32 allen screw through the middle, which threads into the breech. They added a 1/4″ od delrin sleeve as a spacer between the breech and bolt knob. These were quick to wear and eventually break off and leave the bare threads to contact the frame.
Those little sleeves will crack and fall off at some point. Mine did and there are slight marks from the knob contacting the frame. I put a new sleeve on and no big deal. File it smooth and dab on some Aluminum Black.
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A simple, effective solution would be to cut a short piece of rubber hose of the right size and use that as a sleeve.