Q:

Total Volume vs Volume in front of the barrel

I am trying to design a shroud and was wondering is it just volume that makes things quieter or volume in front of the barrel? For example would a mod that has 6″ past the barrel going to be quieter than one that has say 4″ past the barrel but also uses 2″ of the frame to create the same amount volume?

Shrouds and Moderators

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quote benneeb0y:

…Interesting info. Thanks for the link.

😀 your welcome.

I enjoyed it, thought some of y’all would too.

Asymmetrical baffles will yield the best results. Diffusing the air will change the frequency of the sound and dampen it.

quote Airgunner:

I would think LDC’s like this would work best, as it allows the gases room to expand…but what do I know…I’m not an engineer 😉
Looks like it wouldn’t add much to the OAL of the rifle. I guess when we vent the first barrel bushing, we are in a sense making a reflex suppressor out of the frame internals.

I wish we didnt have the ‘suppressor’ issue that we have…we could have some really nice devices…

Check out this web page, lots of kewl stuff 😀

http://www.stevekershawfirearms.co.uk/moderators.html

Interesting info. Thanks for the link.

The BR Tuote T4 is made of steel because its primary market is AK47s on full auto. The steel still retains its strength even though parts of the suppressor are glowing red hot. Its not designed to be ultra quiet, just adequate and durable in the field with very rough use and zero maintenance.

Thas a t4 centerfire silencer . Tried one on a 2240 pistol .Looked ace , worked shit and weighed a ton as its all steel . Ive made silencers 1/8th the size that worked better .

Whats works well on powder doesn`t work on air . 1/2 the baffle designs you think would work better work worse . You don`t need to fill the tube with cone baffles of k baffles they just take up room and don`t work better than flat washers . Its all about volume and chamber size .

I would think LDC’s like this would work best, as it allows the gases room to expand…but what do I know…I’m not an engineer 😉
Looks like it wouldn’t add much to the OAL of the rifle. I guess when we vent the first barrel bushing, we are in a sense making a reflex suppressor out of the frame internals.

I wish we didnt have the ‘suppressor’ issue that we have…we could have some really nice devices…

Check out this web page, lots of kewl stuff 😀

http://www.stevekershawfirearms.co.uk/moderators.html

quote walt_in_hawaii:

Most of you will note that I’ve never offered to make a shroud. This is because, in my humble opinion, they are illegal in states that do not allow suppressors (Hawaii being one of them) and will clearly be a prosecutable case if you are caught with one. I am working on a prototype now and making the tooling that will allow a safe, LEGAL method of using the Condors and Talons with moderators. I will post pictures after the prototype is built and tested. The supplies and tool stock have been ordered, and I will be able to accomodate a limited number of orders at a time.

aloha,
walt

Walt,

I live in Hawaii, on Oahu. You should know that about 3 months ago, I was shooting rats with night vision with my Talon with a screw on “supressor” on my property, and a neighbor called the police. They blocked off the street and 4 police rushed me with shotguns drawn and cocked, they made me go to the ground then they ran through my house like a SWAT team.

After they realized I only had a airgun, they packed up and left, after apologizing. Nobody said a word about my “supressor”.

Don’t know if that has any reflection on the law, but i think it speaks to Hawaii’s attitude towards air rifle “spressors”.

Bones

Cool. Thanks for the help!

4″ back won`t fully make up for 2″ lost off the front . Go as far back as you can or stick with 6″ forward and the extra back volume will make some difference but not a huge difference .

Okay so your saying 2 inches off the front might need 4 or more inches on the rear to make up the difference?

I would leave it with the big chamber first . If you want to alter it try 2.5″> 1″ > 2.5″ to get an extra chamber .

So which would be better…

a) factory bushing -> 3.5″ -> fender washer -> 2.5″ -> cap

b) factory bushing -> 2.5″ -> fender washer -> 3.5″ -> cap

quote benneeb0y:

I am trying to design a shroud and was wondering is it just volume that makes things quieter or volume in front of the barrel? For example would a mod that has 6″ past the barrel going to be quieter than one that has say 4″ past the barrel but also uses 2″ of the frame to create the same amount volume?

Ive done months of testing over barrel airgun silencers (made about 40 different setups ) and loosing 2″ off the front and adding it to the back will make the silencer louder .
Forward length is much more important . To loose 2″ off the front you need considerably more back volume to compensate .
On a talon you can use the huge amount of frame volume so the forward part can be kept quite short on other guns you need as much back volume as possible to get noticeable results .

The way I do them is to decide what the max forward length I want and then go as far back as possible over the barrel .I look at backward length is free volume so you may aswell use what you can for the slight benefit it gives but unless you can go back a long way it wont help much with lost forward length .

Thanks guys. This is for informations only as Walt pointed out the legal factors. Walt “WAVE ATTENUTATION” is the key word for sure! Every patent design I looked at it appeared to me that the baffle seemed to be designed for deflecting sound more than anything else. Absorption of sound sound seemed to be a key factor here too. Not so much the space that is is front of the barrel. Obliviously there will be caveats as far as space in front of the barrel is concerned because of physical logistics though. But 6″ in front of the barrel combined with 6″‘s in the frame could be as effect as 12″‘s in front of the barrel?

Looks like a K baffle from a TAC 65. Kind of a grocery grade civilian unit.

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