Valve Swap & Dielectric Grease Question…
I am going to pull a Talon valve from it;s tank and replace it with a new Condor valve… Is there anything special for getting the existing valve out? I have metalhead’s valve wrench so grabbing the valve is easy… Do I need heat, or possibly Conan…? 😆
The note with the valve says use dielectric grease on the new valve, is this necessary if it’s from a tank that just had a valve in it?
Thanks.
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Thanks Walter,
I was so disappointed in how crudy the valve looked I did a good cleanup and used Teflon tape on the valve spring retainer and just silicone grease on the o-ring and tank threads. The o-ring really bubbled out in one spot.
I talked with MM and water tested the works after cleaning up my greasy mess and all appears well now. I wonder if maybe I forgot to finish tightening the tank the first time.
Thanks,
Edmund
Is dielectric that poop looking stuff around the valve spring retainer???
The brass valve even had green corrosion in the threads with corrosion and poop stuff around the nut end of the valve retainer. My Condor is just a year old. Is this typical poop crap and corrosion typical?
After one night of a 3000 PSi fill the air leaked down to under 500 PSI and when I went to unscrew the tank from the rifle, the hand tight bottle began to leak and the O-ring got pregnant in a hurry. I finished emptying the tank and will replace the 0-ring but, would blue lock tight help to seal the tank threads???
Clean everything. new orings, di-electric grease… silicone grease is clear use that sparingly, hand tight DO-NOT use loctite. Use the valve tool idea posted earlier this week and tighten the valve as much as you can by hand.
If your tank is leaking down then the valve is in need of attention.
Walter….
In process of installing E-TaC Reg and had an issue with Hand Tight and Dielectric grease.
Is dielectric that poop looking stuff around the valve spring retainer???
The brass valve even had green corrosion in the threads with corrosion and poop stuff around the nut end of the valve retainer. My Condor is just a year old. Is this typical poop crap and corrosion typical?
After one night of a 3000 PSi fill the air leaked down to under 500 PSI and when I went to unscrew the tank from the rifle, the hand tight bottle began to leak and the O-ring got pregnant in a hurry. I finished emptying the tank and will replace the 0-ring but, would blue lock tight help to seal the tank threads???
Why wonder?? just put some on it, better safe than sorry 😀
x2
Dielectric grease is available in a small tube from an auto parts supply store
While its apart replace the tank oring.
Enjoy
Walter….
synopsys said::The note with the valve says use dielectric grease on the new valve, is this necessary if it’s from a tank that just had a valve in it?
Why wonder?? just put some on it, better safe than sorry 😀
on… I did this 10 or so times without any leaks or issues….
X2. Hold bottle in hand, tighten valve with wrench. No leaks. Thats what the oring is for…. 😉
yes sir
I live in southern CA.
English your second language?
Don’t scare me Walter, you’re getting too personal now 😆 😆
I live in southern CA.
At later time, I know another guy from paintball refill station, he got all the tools included a large vise, he installed reg, remove valve, foster, gauge for me free 😆 😆 😆
Where do you live DVU?
Walter…
If you end up using ratchet strap, you may need to ask someone else to help you from other end, I don’t think you could do it by yourself.
Good luck….
That gives me an idea… 😀
I have a drill press vise and half a million clamps… 😕 I really don’t like the idea of clamping the cylinder… 😕 😆
I used a ratchet strap and a 4X4…
Cool, I think i’ll snug it down good, not too tight but a little more snug than hand tight… 😉 Metalhead’s tool makes it really easy to snug it up without any issues.
I have a drill press vise and half a million clamps… 😕 I really don’t like the idea of clamping the cylinder… 😕 😆
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Ive removed the valve from 2 bottles, and neither of them required I put the bottle in a vise.
I have a sheet of rubber about 1/8″ thick, and 2 foot long. I start wrapping the rubber around the bottle and leave about 8″. Wrap as tight as you can with the valve on the right side, and roll toward you.
Now stand on the bottle with the ball of your foot, and use your heel on the portion sticking out on the floor. Put your valve removal tool on the valve, and using a rubber mallet smack the end of the handle.
If you wrap the bottle right, it wont slip and cant rotate (much) and the valve will loosen right up.
I suppose I could use a vise with the rubber sheet, but I tend to go overboard and might crush the bottle. Aluminum bottles do not spring back into shape if they are crushed, and are tremendously weakened during that process.