Well I did it…..Shot my Chrony…Twice
Checking some psi, fps and shot my chrony twice in a row….The first shot sounded funny but I blew it off…Second shot sounded funny and I noticed the light shining differently off of the front of the chrony….It still works but the screen is bleeding a little. I was told to be careful…Guess I wasn’t careful enough….Don’t laugh too soon…..I thought it was impossible….It’s not…
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Make the front shield about 1/4- 1/3″ higher than the sheet metal…if the ‘graph is set up close to level, won’t hit the back lip.
Angled Lexan would work. Better to have it angled to cast a stray pellet down; it gets rid of both the light reflection problem (so you can read the numbers) and puts an “oh-oh” pellet into the dirt. Lexan tends to scratch very easily, but 1/4″ of it angled by about 30degrees would do the tick and let you see though it (but Lexan tends to scratch very easily, and it will get “milky” with time.
Right about that. I’m thinking a rear shield would be need as well for me. If you look at my pic I had a problem with shooting my rear censor… 😆
Maybe a deflector shield mounted to the frame in the middle where it hinges….lol Just kidding…I think I am going to try something that I can swing up out of the way of the screen to read the results after the string is shot….Shouldn’t have to be too elaborate…
Right about that. I’m thinking a rear shield would be need as well for me. If you look at my pic I had a problem with shooting my rear censor… 😆
Would still do the front shield…can tell by the posted photos, the thin sheet metal isn’t going to save the front sky screen if it gets buldged in that far.
No chance of shooting the display
When mine die’s that’s what I’m getting 😀
Thats why I bought a master
No chance of shooting the display
Wow!…I am wondering how hard it would be to change out the screen on mine..That is really all it needs….I’m like you, I don’t care if it is bent or cracked just as long as it works….I just can’t see the decimal places now.
mamcrackin, I shot mine too and it still works 😀
Good stuff ribbonstone….That looks more like something I would do….
Managed to kill mine…sort of. took many years, but eventually a loose LDC, clipped pellet, randomly tumbling pellet, did the job. “Sort of” dead because it will read , just not the last two digits.
So bought a new one, and this time shielded it. Get the one with either the wireless remote screen or the wired one, either way get the read out out of the line of fire.
Shield the unit with anything that can take a good solid hit AND still cushion the box. Something solid without some passing behind it just transfers the energy to the sky screen housing, so glue pads of rubber or foam tape behind the shield.
Replace the steel rods that hold up the diffuser. If you center hit one of those, will break the sky screen housing it slips into. Replace them with thin dowel. If you shoot one of those, it will just snap. Does take the “arch” out of the diffuser screens, but they seem to work…if needed, could add plastic blinders to the sides.
Views from the test-tunnel:
Test tunnel…baslically chicken wire, foam rumbber, coated in old carpet (fuzzy side in). Can get a lot of tuning, velocity, and short range accuracy wrok done without bothering your neighbors and without having to add anything to the muzzle. If something is already hanging off the muzzle, then it gets “makes grown men giggle” quiet.
I was testing it and accidentally shot it 2 times. It was a good group though 😆
Man thanks Adam…I can always count on your for solid advice….Where’s my WOKBUTT? lol
Aim Higher 😛
I have mine mounted in a wood box with 4 inches of wood directly in front of the screen area.
Mark
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Yup I also shot my chrony twice at full power with the condor using Kodiaks at 10 feet. It still works !