Q:

What mods for new Condor?

Condor beginner here.
What mods can i do to my new .25 cal condor with 24″ barrel?
What can i mod for power and accuracy? What do i need to change to mount a (vented or normal) shroud? What else is do i need (gear and pellets recommendations), besides refill adapter and scope.
What options are there for going bigger caliber wise?

Thx for all your input

Airforce Rifles/Pistols

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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 25 total)

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Thx.

quote lifo2001:

While i wait on my chrony, i got a question about a spare tank/bottle? Can i use a Pure Energy 800 cc (3000 psi) or a TOTEM 800 cc (3000 psi) paintball on my condor or do i have to mod somethin to do so?

I think you can with Jims adaptor. Ask Jim, A.K.A. marmot militia.

While i wait on my chrony, i got a question about a spare tank/bottle? Can i use a Pure Energy 800 cc (3000 psi) or a TOTEM 800 cc (3000 psi) paintball on my condor or do i have to mod somethin to do so?

quote lifo2001:

Thx, guys. I will do the top hat adjustment and have ordered my chrony. I hope i find a good pellet supplier here in Eu and then its of to the diy shroud making.

Make sure you measure and record where it’s at BEFORE you adjust it. That way you can always go back to that starting point. Get some divers silicone.

Thx, guys. I will do the top hat adjustment and have ordered my chrony. I hope i find a good pellet supplier here in Eu and then its of to the diy shroud making.

quote pablouk:

quote SAVAGESAM:

Don’t worry about the newB ? Most ppl. here enjoy helping others. First thing you need is a chrony if you are going to do any serious tuning yourself (even if you’re not)next is a set of feeler guages to measure your top hat gap. I suggest a .070 T.H. gap and a 2500 Psi. fill. You are right on with the Kodiaks. Set your Power Wheel (P.W.) in the middle (which gives the most adjustment in both directions) you want your pellets doing between 900-950 Fps.

There’s some good first pointers right there 😎

And if Pabs gives some suggestions, take them. Hes done forgot more than I’ll ever know.

quote SAVAGESAM:

Don’t worry about the newB ? Most ppl. here enjoy helping others. First thing you need is a chrony if you are going to do any serious tuning yourself (even if you’re not)next is a set of feeler guages to measure your top hat gap. I suggest a .070 T.H. gap and a 2500 Psi. fill. You are right on with the Kodiaks. Set your Power Wheel (P.W.) in the middle (which gives the most adjustment in both directions) you want your pellets doing between 900-950 Fps.

There’s some good first pointers right there 😎

Don’t worry about the newB ? Most ppl. here enjoy helping others. First thing you need is a chrony if you are going to do any serious tuning yourself (even if you’re not)next is a set of feeler guages to measure your top hat gap. I suggest a .070 T.H. gap and a 2500 Psi. fill. You are right on with the Kodiaks. Set your Power Wheel (P.W.) in the middle (which gives the most adjustment in both directions) you want your pellets doing between 900-950 Fps.

No crony. I don’t know what my top hat is set at now (sorry newb question – where can i find that info). Shooting Kodiaks.

Do you have a chrony? What is your top hat set at now? What pellet do you intend to shoot?

The rifle looks good and shoots excellent, it so much fun. Are there diy’s with pictures for making shrouds or how the mounting is done? I wanna try and do some experimenting on my own. Now to my next question, what mods can be done for more power?

hows that rifle looking?

What he said.

But, to make that frame a foot longer, you can simply make a tube with an endcap and stick it in the end of the rifle. Basically make the frame longer. Then stick washers in that.

Or, if you don’t want to make the tube, you can get a frame extender from frameextenders.com and add washers to baffle it. Works well, and it is cheaper than the big-name shrouds. But I will say, it doesn’t work as well as the big name shrouds, it is very quiet, but just not silent.

The washer mod dosnt work on a condor cause its barrel extends past the end of the frame unlike a stealth or TSS …if the frame was about a foot longer than it is then you could just stack washers in the frame like a TSS/stealth…

So is there no space inbetween the baffels? this as i understand it is an other area to work on lowering sound. my experiance is only on the stealth (tss) so my appologies if i was wrong 🙂 , figured there much the same in layout.

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