What rimfire to get?
Im moving to a farm and i no longer need my shrouded condor. So i was thinking on selling it and buying a new rimfire 17 or .22lr or even .22 mag. I Want to be able to take out coyotes and fox And feral cats. when they come around the chickens and what not. So i was thinking .17 or .22mag. But those both cost more to shoot. Than a .22lr although they both have much more power and accuracy then a .22lr. And i already have a .22lr. Then i was thinking lever action or semi auto i know .17 aren’t made in semi but i think .22 mags are? And i like the cz452 American. I know llama has one and he likes his so im just looking at my choices. So what would you buy or what do you have?
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My 17 ranged for 0.5″ high at 100 yards runs dead at 50 yards.
Since the scope to bore is just 1.5″ I don’t have to concern myself with drop or hold over. Your gun is incredibly accurate with very little drop out to 125 yards.
You’ve got a great gun; break it in; sight it; and enjoy. The 17 rimfire rounds are hand-load efficiency.
The real point of mil-dots has absolutely nothing to do with holdover for drop. It is for range estimation. A lot of people don’t know that though (usually the same bunch that think it stands for military dots)
That being said though, it does work, and it works with any caliber. Just put out targets, and figure out at what range the path of the bullet crosses the dot at. I don’t usually like this method, I prefer adjusting the scope, but if you need to make a quick shot it is not a bad thing to know.
Stay away from those BSA and such. Just not quality optics.
Something like this would be great. It doesn’t have the target knobs or anything, but it is a good scope. I actually bought this exact same thing from a guy on here (and got a smoking deal) and it is used on the blaser. I shot a competition with it just like that. After I saved up a bit more, I sent it to leupold and had a TMR reticle and M1 knobs put on it. Now it is a long range machine. 😀
But you are only spending another $100 or so to get a good scope rather than a cheap one, and you can improve it later. I do recommend the modifications when you can afford it. My thumb was sore from adjusting the hunting knobs during the competition. 😆
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=191292827
Here is the same scope (on my cz actually) after I had the modifications done:
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14348&highlight=leupold+tmr
Im looking for something with at least 16 power. And mildots if the work well with .17?
+2, saving just $100 on a scope can cause you weeks of your life lost… I’ve been there and done that… You need quality eyes.. Leupold or Burris are great brands. My cousin has shot Leupold on his 270 for decades without losing zero. I will by Leupold on my next center fire.
What price range are you looking for in a scope.
I URGE you to get a good one. That is going to be a gun like my .22lr, and it will be easy to change distances and hit anything. If you get a cheap scope, you will hate it. You won’t be able to consistently adjust the scope and be on target.
Get a GOOD scope (I suggest a leupold varixIII with either target or M1 knobs) They are older, so they can be had for cheaper than their newest top of the line scopes, but they are still very good. Get you a shooting range that will go to the max distance you will hunt at, and set targets up starting at either 25 or 50 yards, and go in 25 yard increments to the max distance. Write down the drop in MOA on a piece of paper and tape that to the side of your stock. Then when you are out hunting you can see a target, look at your drop paper, and dial it in. It works great.
But like I said, everything above is completely pointless if your knobs won’t adjust consistently. So buy once cry once, and get a good scope.
Looks like a great gun… I’m glad you went for the regular stock; I saw a friend with a 22-250 that couldn’t kill a deer at 200 yards and all we could put it down to was the manlicher; although the scope wasn’t ruled out.
I have a Bushnell Banner 4-something 40mm scope and it’s been very reliable on my Savage 17HMR, about $100 Academy… I am, however, in love with my Talon + Burris Timberline 4.5x-something… About $200 at Academy; with adjustable objective.
I like high precision rimfires… try all the 17 ammo in it but I will be willing to bet the Hornaday ammo will be predictable and accurate. Get the V-Max (ballistic tip, 17gr) and some limited expansion hollow points for harder/skull targets (20gr). You’ve got a sweet gun!
Oh, mine took 50 rounds to settle down… and will need it again if you thoroughly clean the bore with bore cleaner… It will paint 1″ all day long… enjoy!
Nice choice me too! Are you going for the thumbhole stock, 16″ with ‘bull’ barrel??
I decided and im getting a .17hmr. A CZ 452 varmint. And my fathers getting a CZ 452 fs it has a manlicher stock in .17hmr also. Now i have to pick a affordable scope.
ok here ya go
get a TC encore if ya have a pistol licence get the pistol version
if not get rifle version both can be interchanged at will and the scope if u chose to use one goes on bbl and the bbl can be swapped in less than 1 min
the rimfire bbls are deadly accurate and at under 200 for a bbl its a great platfor but it is sigle shot heck get a 22lr bbl a 222 mag or 17 hmr and then step up to a 375 h+h bbl for the big shit all of this will still come in under 1000 bucks
lol
i have the encore pistol and im addicted to it it is a very fun gun indeed
with colebri ammo 19grain no powder just the primer and my r55 .22lr is my most silent gun a tiny pop is heard….and makes 14 fpe….and rifle is not silenced in any way….i guess my aa410 at 14 fpe would be almost as quiet
You can get a ballistic tip for the .17 that works well on coyotes.
I’m surprised by the number of people switching to powderburners. I’ve gone the other way. My registered subgun hasn’t been shot in over ten years.
Shooting is just fun with whatever platform trips your trigger.
Oh, and don’t forget to buy a quality scope, more than $200… if you’re going to spend money on a gun you need eyes.
Don’t over think it… a 22 mag is a solid gun and the 17hmr has the same power but a lazer like trajectory.
Your 22LR is a fantastic plinking gun with subsonic ammo or CB caps if they shoot accurately.
Enjoy!!!! No more SCUBA tanks or pumps 🙂
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The real point of mil-dots has absolutely nothing to do with holdover for drop. It is for range estimation. A lot of people don’t know that though (usually the same bunch that think it stands for military dots)
That being said though, it does work, and it works with any caliber. Just put out targets, and figure out at what range the path of the bullet crosses the dot at. I don’t usually like this method, I prefer adjusting the scope, but if you need to make a quick shot it is not a bad thing to know.
Stay away from those BSA and such. Just not quality optics.
Something like this would be great. It doesn’t have the target knobs or anything, but it is a good scope. I actually bought this exact same thing from a guy on here (and got a smoking deal) and it is used on the blaser. I shot a competition with it just like that. After I saved up a bit more, I sent it to leupold and had a TMR reticle and M1 knobs put on it. Now it is a long range machine. 😀
But you are only spending another $100 or so to get a good scope rather than a cheap one, and you can improve it later. I do recommend the modifications when you can afford it. My thumb was sore from adjusting the hunting knobs during the competition. 😆
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=191292827
Here is the same scope (on my cz actually) after I had the modifications done:
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14348&highlight=leupold+tmr
Thanks for all the help lamma. I knew they work for range estamation i just never used them in that fashion. I didnt realise i was going to be spending this amount of coin, But it will be worth it with dime sized groups at 100 yards. The gun is 470 rangefinder 150 bipod. Dispatching pests at 100 yards pricless.