Why do…
…people cut threads with a lathe as opposed to a tap & die? I know size is often the reason, but surely there are many sub-inch diameters where a T&D would be much easier?
All Replies
Careful what you stick up your barrel. 😮 That rifling is shallow and easy to damage, especially critical at the muzzle.
Martin
Yeah, I guess. A length of .22 brass would be too bendy, and steel would make a right mess of the rifling.
Imagine if it could be done though, the barrel’s OD could be machined until the bore was almost 100% perfectly concentric. Are they really actually that badly out of whack though? Surely they’d have no accuracy at all beyond a few yards.
Careful what you stick up your barrel. 😮 That rifling is shallow and easy to damage, especially critical at the muzzle.
Martin
I mean physically rotate the barrel so the bore is in alignment with the scope rail.
Maybe stick a rod up the barrel to tolerance-fit and turn it that way. You’d sure see how out of whack the concentricity was then.
Turn the barrel up? I thought it was a bad thing to turn down the outside of a barrel? It releases tension and can change the bore and choke?
I was thinking you could make the bushings over sized, mount them on the barrel in the installed position and then chuck the whole mess in the lathe using the centers and then finish turning the bushings while on the barrel. You would have to mark the barrel and bushings so that you could take them off and remount them in the exact same spot if needed.
Yes it would. If I had a problem with accuracy I would look at the bore and turn it up and then set the bushings.
If barrels are not concentric to the bore then shouldnt we be turning custom bushings by using the bore instead of just making them round and pretty? I would think getting the bore in the center of the frame would go a long way to improving accuracy.
😥
I knew there was a reason why you are so well liked 😛
Ahh, sure tis grand Blod, I’ll hold out til all is ready 😉 ,
I must get my ass in gear and post some pics of the shroud and barrell.
Too much time is being spent on my behalf Drinking,Playing with Motorbikes, and shootin at clays ( I can even hit them some times 😯 )
Now get back in the shed 😀
Tis’ true. . I am a c**t.
😥
Valve’s here on me desk. I was gunna wait till the other silencer was done to send it wuth that but i can send it now if you’d like ?
Sean.
Oye Blod,
is that my barrell in those pics? I have to say the quality of your work is
FANTASTIC.
I am convinced that it is now more accurate wit the barrel threaded and the full length shroud fitted than in standard form.
Excellent work, now wheres me valve ya c*nt!
Eamonn
I followed JFK’s excellent suggestion and looked it up on Youtube. Looked pretty simple really, nothing like it’s made out to be. I suspect the hardest part (for a novice like me at least) is setting up the gears correctly.
As soon as the tool clears the thread your cutting and goes into the little space shown in the picture between the thread and the rest of the barrel you disengage the power feed. Then back out the tool and just manually crank the carriage back to the start using the thread indicator dial to make sure you rengage the power feed at the right point
OR you can power it down, and then back off the cutting tool and hit the reverse switch to move it back to the start – Dont need the thread indicator dial for that method
There are other ways dependent on your lathe. But it isn’t that hard – Just need to keep an eye on it.
You have to stop the power feed and move the tool away from your work in one fast motion.
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Careful what you stick up your barrel. 😮 That rifling is shallow and easy to damage, especially critical at the muzzle.
Martin
Yeah, I guess. A length of .22 brass would be too bendy, and steel would make a right mess of the rifling.
Imagine if it could be done though, the barrel’s OD could be machined until the bore was almost 100% perfectly concentric. Are they really actually that badly out of whack though? Surely they’d have no accuracy at all beyond a few yards.