12" Talon SS baffles
I’ve gotten a couple of PM’s asking how to and does jaybirdo’s baffle scheme really work in the 12” SS.
First off, the baffles knock down the stock SS report to where you can hear tank ping if your PW is set around 4-5 or lower. Is this method as quite as the $120 solutions? Due to reduced expansion volumes, I think not. I would go the $120 solution, in a heart beat, for the 18 or 24” barrels for urban warfare or if quieter 12” needed.
For the 12” shrouded frame, jaybirdo’s $8 solution brings an evil grin on my face, it’s “almost” as quite as my spring FWB-124. My 124 does not have the report of a PPC, unless dieseling, more mechanical at different frequencies for a better term.
As to sequence, you would remove end cap. Insert o-ring-spacer o-ring – washer, this clears the barrel. Then o-ring, washer-o-ring-spacer for next “module”. I ended the front section with stacked washer and o-ring combos, some with 4 o-rings stacked to vary the chamber and add rubber “squish” to end cap and to keep things tight inside shroud. There is lots of room for tinkering with the volume sequences here so have fun.
I got the ¾” copper pipe unions, near 1” OD, 1” (-214) o-rings, and 1” OD with ¼” hole washers at my local Lowes. The copper unions can be cut length wise if a tight fit required, I used 1 wrap of electrical tape to avoid metal to metal and help center but probably not needed. Nice of AF to have shroud ID near 1”, no? 😛
After assembly I made sure no tube shadows or cocked baffles were detected by looking down the bore. No pellet clipping or change in POI, 20 yards, has occurred. If given the room I would have tested before and after at 40 yards to check POI.
Mike
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Iwill tell ya right now, spring washer, spring washer, o-ring washer o-ring washer and keep going till the end cap ya have to compress a bit.
This way it is all solid, no rattle 😛 😛 😛 😛 😛
Or don’t even mess around and get a hush/hush from one of our better known hush/hush men.
I have 3 GTBJ hush hushes and can say much better than the spring washer o-ring combo.
I will add, to start hush/hush it is not bad practice to start with the spring washer o-ring combo, it works 😈 😈 😈 😈 😈
cheap and good for getting to know your gun.
Then step up for something better, my 25 cal Talon is seriously quiet on full power, thanx GTBJ 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
So, all the newbies, well, do what ya gotta do 🙄 🙄 🙄
Experiment with your shit and have fun
SAW
Why do the FNG never listen?
I’m not talking out my ass here, it has been done many times in the past with the same results, but you have fun with your bad self and let us know how it works for you.
just remember… these anit your grandmas red rider
I’m in Central Ohio (should have mentioned that before), but thanks for offering anyways!
Thanks for the welcome! I just wish I could find someone in my area with one of these to try before I buy.
Where are you from? If close, you can try my SS out.
Thanks for the additional washer info too:)
And…
WELCOME!!!!
Actually, I have a setup like this I use on one of my air rifles and I’ve shot quite a lot through it and I have no strings or fibers flying about. Not to say you aren’t right, because I could see this happening if the washers were cheap, but it does work and hold up, and no affect on my accuracy.
Thanks for the welcome! I just wish I could find someone in my area with one of these to try before I buy.
http://www.steveweissmusic.com/product/33556/universal-percussion
Hope this helps.
felt will fray and leave a bunch of little stings for you to shoot through causing all kinds of havoc, defiantly not recommend 😉
but welcome, lost of great reading/learning here
New here, and I don’t have a Talon SS yet (lurking here to find info), but I have a suggestion to make the shroud even quieter. Buy some felt washers and insert them into the shroud. You don’t even need washers to act as baffles. Here are some felt washers:
http://www.steveweissmusic.com/product/33556/universal-percussion
Hope this helps.
First off, the baffles knock down the stock SS report to where you can hear tank ping if your PW is set around 4-5 or lower. Is this method as quite as the $120 solutions? Due to reduced expansion volumes, I think not. I would go the $120 solution, in a heart beat, for the 18 or 24” barrels for urban warfare or if quieter 12” needed.
For the 12” shrouded frame, jaybirdo’s $8 solution brings an evil grin on my face, it’s “almost” as quite as my spring FWB-124. My 124 does not have the report of a PPC, unless dieseling, more mechanical at different frequencies for a better term.
As to sequence, you would remove end cap. Insert o-ring-washer-spacer, this clears the barrel. Then washer-o-ring washer-spacer for next “module”. I ended the front section with stacked washer and o-ring combos, some with 4 o-rings stacked to vary the chamber and add rubber “squish” to end cap and to keep things tight inside shroud. There is lots of room for tinkering with the volume sequences here so have fun.
I got the ¾” copper pipe unions, near 1” OD, 1” (-214) o-rings, and 1” OD with ¼” hole washers at my local Lowes. The copper unions can be cut length wise if a tight fit required, I used 1 wrap of electrical tape to avoid metal to metal and help center but probably not needed. Nice of AF to have shroud ID near 1”, no? 😛
After assembly I made sure no tube shadows or cocked baffles were detected by looking down the bore. No pellet clipping or change in POI, 20 yards, has occurred. If given the room I would have tested before and after at 40 yards to check POI.
Mike
I agree, I’m currently using this same method w/ 1×1/4″ washers to great effect. I actually wrapped the pipe with e. tape about 1.5 times, just enough so that the pipe fit snug in the frame (not tight, you want to be able to get it out). My other mod to this was to get a scotch bright pad, cut a piece slightly shorter in width than the length of the pipe and just long enough to fit to the inside of the pipe so the 2 ends of the pad touch when rolled. Roll the pad over a 1/2″ wooden dowel, aplly some glue (gorilla glue) to the out side of the pad and insert into the pipe. After a day of drying remove the wooden dowel and you have a nice turbulance stripping chamber. I noticed that adding the scotchbite significantly lowered the report yet again. I did this to the 1st & 3rd chambers.
-Johnny
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=55952-37672-882073&lpage=none
As per one member, the 1″x 3/8″ washers is not the ones to use, ” there was no difference”.
The links are for the pricy SS fender washers, I used cheaper steel ones.
Search is your friend 8)
What is the $8 solution?
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I’m not talking out my ass here, it has been done many times in the past with the same results, but you have fun with your bad self and let us know how it works for you.
just remember… these anit your grandmas red rider
What am I missing?
What does this mean?