.308 Build
Ordered all the pieces from AF today so I can build my .308 Condor. Frame, trigger asembly, power wheel, fore arm grip. I have 28″ barrel and bigbore Blod valve. I will make everything else. Lathe is going to be here around 12:00 tomorrow. Can’t wait to start making things on a real lathe. I will then have .22 .25 and .308. Want to try and break 400 fpe with .308.
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Hart barrels. or Lilja.
That’s a good question. LW is out and doesn’t know when they will have more. Anybody recommend another barrel?
Questeeeeoon!
Where does one get a .45 barrel suitable for the job, and what about pellets/ball rounds?
for high power applications i would leave that lip there too, but yeah it will shorten your hammer stroke by what ever amount of inches it sticks out….but that could be compensated in by shortening the breech, which btw is a great way to increase hammer travel to get the hammer up to even higher speeds, and ability to knock open oven bigger valves 🙂
i know your all working on .308 …imho .308 does not provide much over .25 and jerry slugs…but .45 and up is awesome for bigbore….the power increases are enormous even if you leave everything else as it is with the valve and just dump a .45 barrel in there…it will give you 100+ fpe with no change…possibly even 200 fpe
i found it much easier to get 900 fps with a 200 grain .45 bullit, vs a 200 grain .308
heck to my surprice i could get get 15 shots between 1050fps and 900 fps with .45 roundballs (142 grains) with AF bottle and 3500 psi….those .45 and .50 round balls are huge compared to a .308, and in pure killing power that is king….yeah they have more drag and lower coeffisian and what not…and dont look as cool as a 120 grain .308 bullit..
but since we can not get into the 2000 fps with our airguns to get the bullets to expand and disintegrate ….we have to go up in diameter instead to create a huge wound channel
308 is interesting though and as pure fun to see how you can make it perform its very cool…and to see the jaws drop at the range when you unleash that airhammer thats priceless…once they hear the bang, and see the recoil…not to mention that your hitting at 12″ target at 200 yards well….fun fun fun
That lip stops the breech trying to slam the collar out the back of the frame. Something I did about a year ago………. when I was 16 🙂 come on AF!!
Whoa! Could you post more pics of that new collar?
That are those notches for?
What do they gain from making the mfg process more complex?
Well AF is at it again. My new frame showed up while I was at work and they have changed things again.
Would be nice if they told told you that the frame collar is different now. Don’t like it and will be putting in one of my spare collars I have. No more grub screws from below. I’m guessing this will let you remove the collar to remove the tank on there new setup with fill nipple and gauge.
I will be turning this into a side cocker monday morning. Sucks I have to make new barrel bushings also. Frame is 1.0155″ old one was 1.012″.
Thanks. I was going to PM you with some questions but I will do that first. I made a new trigger guard today to help stiffen the frame even more. I will be turning the .308 into a side cocker as soon as the new frame shows up. The guard is a version of the Wok Gard but I included the spring plate and only cut holes to for the trigger and to adjust it. I have one of those “super seers”from AOA. Works good but trigger is a little light. I went and got a couple of the right springs, .240″x .500” but stiffer.Don’t know
why He couldn’t sorce out the right spring instead of buying a spring and cutting it.
Here’s the cheesy spring
wow this is encridibly interesting
i havent read it all closely…
but make the breech out of something light like ti or aluminuim…to keep moving mass down, this will help alot of things, especially in letting the valve snap shut faster, this way it can open deeper but still close fast enough not to dump
like bloodnop and i are doing with spring on the outside of the valvestem is the way to go…inside the spring will get bashed all to hell from having hammers beating it to shit and air cooling the shit out of the metal and pressure pushing it around
fat valves are cool….make them open in the tank vs in the valvebody…this way the body is not restricting air, and it can flow from all sides
but dang, thats some fine machining you guys are doing…..i made it to 250 fpe on a 3500 psi fill and 119 gr …. i used a cheap barrel from midway…but i could hit a 12″ target at 200 yard at the range repeatedly
ohh and airtstripper at the end of the barrel helps putting weight at the end of the barrel and well strip some air away….at these powers it becomes clear that this rifle platform is butt heavy as hell…. so some extra weight at the muzzle is going to help a bunch in accuracy, i did not find that a 3rd bushing at the end of the frame to help anything….but a 1 piece bushing that sits where the original two sits helped a bunch, it eliminated flex between the two bushings i guess ???
anyhow awesome work….very exciting
I’m happy with the power. I’m trying to solve the issue of tank dump. I want to shoot 171 gr and that put me back to tank dump. I stopped it by setting tophat at around .075″. I’m surprised it shot 171 gr at 823 fps with that setting. I will do some more testing and might leave it at .075″ if it still shoots the 150 gr around 870 fps. I ordered a new frame today so I can make it a side cocker. My thumb barely fits between the frame and the scope rail. Then throw a 13 lb spring in the mix and my thumb grow a little to much when pushing the cocking knob. Also going to make a version of the Wok Guard that includes the trigger plate in it. Thinking of making it go more towards the front to stiffen up the gun.
IT IS because of the shorter stem. COMPRESSED AIR wants and needs to get out as fast as it can. The shorter the distance from air tank to port hole to projectile , the more power you can make (to a certain extent). Big port holes are just one solution to the entire equation.
Again though, and this is just my opinion but, YOU ARE NEARING THE END. you are running in circles “inching” for a few more FPE/FPS.
I would simply like to see this gun shot some. How is the accuracy with the power you are getting now (860 ish)? And i say that cause while tuning is fun, with each step in getting MORE POWER, you have to see how accurate or inaccurate the gun is. It would suck to get 350 FPE and the gun shoots worse than a 12 gauge with a cylinder choke at 60 yards….lol
For some reason a condor style valve moves more air. I think it’s because the stem is so short. My .25 version makes 23 fpe more than my highly ported blod valve. Until I made my own valve the blod valve out did a factoy condor valve easily. My valve with the 7/8-14 on both side I think has to much flow and requires a 40 lbs spring in the valve to help stop tank dump. Maybe I need to put a larger diameter spring so the air restriction might help in closing the valve. I will keep working on it when I have extra time now because I need to move on to other projects. I will go to century spring and get some larger diameter springs to try and create some resistance. Next is a shroud for my .308.
Exactly, as blod found out, essentially you are fighting a losing battle. The more the stem moves to get more flow and dwell time, the more restricted the air is because of the coils of the spring bunching up together.
Granted his spring retainer har pretty much the most amount of flow he could get, it is still causing a problem.
Is there a way that you could incorporate blod’s spring idea of having the valve return spring behind the tophat, thus increasing flow massively to the valve seat?
i’ve been following this thread with great interest, and i was kinda wondering the same thing. seems to me it would make much more sense to get the spring out in front and awav from the airflow. the only pressure on the stem seal would then be air pressure, thereby lessening the possibility of collapsing the stem as seen in the earlier tests. at that point the retainer nut could be done away with and the back end of the valve could be opened up and polished, also increasing airflow.
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Voltar used track the wolf barrel liners for his big bore. Highly recommended by him I think