Bad Accuracy After Barrel Swap
Hi,
I bought a Talon SS in .177 and I also got a .22 barrel for it.
My question for you is, what is the rubber disk that came with the spare barrel and how is it properly installed with it?
When I was swapping barrels the old black rubber disk fell out with the barrel. Since the change neither barrel is holding accuracy.
My .177 barrel was holding dime sized groups at 45 yards, and now it is hardly holding a 2.5 inch group at 45 yards,
and the same goes with the .22 barrel. I KNOW these are accurate rifles, so could someone please give me some DETAILED
instructions on how to change a barrel properly in case I have done it wrong?
I have watched the instructional DVD that came with the gun a few times and checked the barrel changing section of it
to double check my work, but I seen nothing (or maybe I missed it) on that small rubber disk.
Also, when I do get a decent 1 inch 5 shot group, it will almost always start shooting strays and the groups open back up to
2 or 3 inches regardless of any pellet I use. This has only been happening after the barrel change, with both the .177 and .22 barrel.
The groups tighten up at 10 yards, but the farther away the worse it gets. At 60 yards I got the same results as posted above.
Good 5 shot group, and then strays and 2 or 3 inch groups start happening. The gun is showing me potential, but it’s not sustaining
even though I know the gun can.
Pellets used during my trouble shooting where as follows
.22 Kodiak 21.14 GR
.22 Crow Magnum 18.21 GR
.22 RWS Meisterkugeln 14 GR
.22 JSB Exact Jumbo Heavy 18.13
.22 JSB Diabolo Exact 14.3 GR
.177 RWS Superpoint 8.2 GR
.177 Crosman Destroyers I think around 8 GR
PS: Is the Talon SS Weatherproof? I don’t want to get caught in bad weather during a hunt and walk out of the woods with a knackered gun.
Much appreciated,
-Jeff
All Replies
You got it bud. I’ll stretch these out to 40 yards tomo. Been a bit chilly out today around 20 degrees. lol
I would rather see the groups you are complaining about at longer range.
Pellet choice is often critical for a particular barrel, and even then different velocity might be needed for them to achieve maximum consistency at the target.
One word of advice, only change one thing at a time and test well after each change.
The biggest enemy of tuners is trying to adjust too many variables at the same time. You will miss important discoveries.
Its easy to miss at 9 yards. Most scopes do not parallax adjust that close.
I would rather see the groups you are complaining about at longer range.
Pellet choice is often critical for a particular barrel, and even then different velocity might be needed for them to achieve maximum consistency at the target.
One word of advice, only change one thing at a time and test well after each change.
The biggest enemy of tuners is trying to adjust too many variables at the same time. You will miss important discoveries.
Agreed about the .177’s. Those 2 are the only choices I have to work with though for that. I need to get some JSB .177’s. ;D
Will swap optics around and see what happens from there.
Thanks,
Check your scope mounts, try a different makescope and/or different scope mounts.
wrong flavors for that .177
Check your scope mounts, try a different makescope and/or different scope mounts.
These are the 5 shot groups I got today. I shot at close range (9 Yards) and to me, maybe I’m being unrealistic here, but the groups are large for such close range. I’ve seen pics on here of people holding these groups at 40 and 50 yards. 
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Hey bud, I have not added any lube to the breach since the barrel change. I will pick some up ASAP. I’m learning that a good seal is the key to these AF guns.
This if often overlooked, and can/will cause a nice accurate gun to go bad once leakage begins. You don’t always feel air blow-by when it occurs, its best to routinely lube.
You may even need new o-rings. Its not difficult to damage them when changing a barrel, and they aren’t overly difficult to replace.
I use Dow 101 silicone valve lube. Best stuff ever.
Just be sure whatever you use, it is silicone.
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That black washer can be removed. It is supposed to sit between the first barrel bushing and the powerwheel. All it does is keep the wheel from turning when you fire the rifle.
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Barrel tightening, tighten the lower ones first pretty snug. Then tighten the side ones just enough to make contact. You do not want to over tighten the side grub screws.
Are you lubing the breech o-rings? Having just changed barrels, you may have lost the seal if there isn’t enough lube left.
This if often overlooked, and can/will cause a nice accurate gun to go bad once leakage begins. You don’t always feel air blow-by when it occurs, its best to routinely lube.
You may even need new o-rings. Its not difficult to damage them when changing a barrel, and they aren’t overly difficult to replace.
I use Dow 101 silicone valve lube. Best stuff ever.
Just be sure whatever you use, it is silicone.
—
That black washer can be removed. It is supposed to sit between the first barrel bushing and the powerwheel. All it does is keep the wheel from turning when you fire the rifle.
—
Barrel tightening, tighten the lower ones first pretty snug. Then tighten the side ones just enough to make contact. You do not want to over tighten the side grub screws.
Puttin on the Ritz!!
dang it maw,
now everyone will expect me to maintain this superior degree of accuracy.
But that’s only a guess 😳
I think your right Lurker, I remember reading something about that creeping pw, yes post groups and I remember after I cleaned my barrel, I had to dirty it up or shoot the oil slick out before it shot real good again, I used rem oil with teflon to clean it. Probably should use some gum out or something as a final clean, not sure, maybe someone else can fill me in on this.
Just a guess but I think the flat rubber washer is supposed to keep the power wheel setting from creeping.
I guess I’m about 95% correct but not sure, this is only a guess 🙄
When my accuracy goes south, it is amost always the top hat coming loose, or was until I got a Dyotat valve.
RC
Ok,
one of the bushings was loose so I tightened it snug.
I also tightened all screws down evenly. The bolt has a perfect fit with the top hat. No catching or anything like that is occurring.
I see no signs of clipping on the end cap. I have also checked the barrel for small burrs on the end with a Q-tip.
Weather is crap right now, so I will see if there is a change when I get the chance. Should I post pics of groups?
Harry, I live just across the river from STL. In fact I’m about 15-20 minutes from STL. Gun is 100% stock.
Thanks heaps everyone.
-Jeff
Jeff,
Where do you live in Illinois? I live up in the Far NW Suburbs.
If I were you, I would remove the barrel, check your bushings and put it back in the gun. Does your gun have a Moderator on the front of it? is it clipping the end cap if you have a TSS?
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what side of IL are you on are you close to gurnee IL