Bad Accuracy After Barrel Swap
Hi,
I bought a Talon SS in .177 and I also got a .22 barrel for it.
My question for you is, what is the rubber disk that came with the spare barrel and how is it properly installed with it?
When I was swapping barrels the old black rubber disk fell out with the barrel. Since the change neither barrel is holding accuracy.
My .177 barrel was holding dime sized groups at 45 yards, and now it is hardly holding a 2.5 inch group at 45 yards,
and the same goes with the .22 barrel. I KNOW these are accurate rifles, so could someone please give me some DETAILED
instructions on how to change a barrel properly in case I have done it wrong?
I have watched the instructional DVD that came with the gun a few times and checked the barrel changing section of it
to double check my work, but I seen nothing (or maybe I missed it) on that small rubber disk.
Also, when I do get a decent 1 inch 5 shot group, it will almost always start shooting strays and the groups open back up to
2 or 3 inches regardless of any pellet I use. This has only been happening after the barrel change, with both the .177 and .22 barrel.
The groups tighten up at 10 yards, but the farther away the worse it gets. At 60 yards I got the same results as posted above.
Good 5 shot group, and then strays and 2 or 3 inch groups start happening. The gun is showing me potential, but it’s not sustaining
even though I know the gun can.
Pellets used during my trouble shooting where as follows
.22 Kodiak 21.14 GR
.22 Crow Magnum 18.21 GR
.22 RWS Meisterkugeln 14 GR
.22 JSB Exact Jumbo Heavy 18.13
.22 JSB Diabolo Exact 14.3 GR
.177 RWS Superpoint 8.2 GR
.177 Crosman Destroyers I think around 8 GR
PS: Is the Talon SS Weatherproof? I don’t want to get caught in bad weather during a hunt and walk out of the woods with a knackered gun.
Much appreciated,
-Jeff
All Replies
The little rubber washer goes between your inner barrel bushing and the power wheel.
So, barrel, rubber washer, power wheel, spring, hammer, breech
But I agree, I don,t think this would cause your accuracy issues
bud start again.. 😉
Take the barrel out with evry thing eles ,spring,hammer,packing washers
ect…..
clean your barrel with a rag,,then put a bit gun oil on the berrel were your parts ride…
your packing washers/derlin spacers go in first
then your spring.
then your hammer
bit of gun oil on all all the above parts lightly smered in by fingers
then push the barrel back into the frame ,whilst holding barrel in go ahead and put your allen head bolts back in ,,
TIGHTEN YOUR BOLTS A BIT AT A TIME EACH SO THAY ARE THE SAME.
DO NOT TIGHTEN ONE AT A TIME ALL THE WAY THIS THROWS THE BARREL OFF LINE,,,YO CAN FEEL WHEN ITS LIKE THAT COS THE BREECH
CATCHES A BIT ON THE TOP HAT WHEN LOADING
hope you understand what i mean ,,,ATB ADAM 😉
I know right? It’s very very strange why this is happening.
I love this gun, and it looks like something out of Starship Troopers. Haha
Thanks bud,
-Jeff
My Condor has never done that and I’ve swapped barrels multiple times. I put the black rubber washer between the hammer spring and the hammer, seems to quiet things down. You’re sure to get some great troubleshooting info from some of the more technically knowledgeable members in no time.
:tag:
Hey Jeff,
My Condor has never done that and I’ve swapped barrels multiple times. I put the black rubber washer between the hammer spring and the hammer, seems to quiet things down. You’re sure to get some great troubleshooting info from some of the more technically knowledgeable members in no time.
:tag:
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Tighten the bottom grub screws, for the barrel first, then the side screws, and x2 on the rubber washer between the bushing and powerwheel, I don’t even use them anymore, they are to help the pw turn I guess.