CAUTION My Mrodair Compressor Experience
I have found a lot of good information on this forum over the past couple of months and I wanted to share my Mrodair Air Max experience. Maybe I can prevent some headaches. Here is the short version.
I ordered and received an Air Max compressor with upgrade package. I opened the boxes and everything ordered was there. There were no instructions on assembly, maintenance, or power requirements. Just a note telling to put oil in compressor before turning on. I spent a couple of nights reverse engineering everything and assembling. No good videos at the time.
I plugged it into the washing machines outlet and turned it on. It ran for about 10 seconds and then tripped circuit. The breaker was reset and compressor turned on again. It ran for another 10 seconds sounding pretty rough so i turned it off. My son noticed smoke coming from under the top panel that smell electrical in nature. No fire. I found a loose switch on a rail and replaced back on rail. I retried Air Max again and only heard switch engage when turned on and disengaged when turned off.
After I emailed Mrodair, I received a prompt response. One of the few. Mike said it was my outlet. So I tried 2 new outlets on dedicated 20amp 110v lines with no other outlets on them. I got the same results. Only a “click” when turned on.
Mrodair was emailed again with details and there was no response after two days so I emailed again while suggesting I might be returning the compressor for a refund. That got a reply. Mike and I trade emails with pictures trying to solve the problem to no success. he then suggested that he would send me a new rocker switch and relay that I would install. I did not buy a new compressor to have to wrench on it to get it to work. i emailed Mike telling him that I was returning the Air Max and how he wanted this handled. Not surprisingly, there was no response. After three days I emailed him twice and he gave me the return authorization number. I sent everything back via UPS.
I tracked the shipment and Mike signed for it on 3/4. No word about my refund by 3/7 so I emailed Mike. As usual, no response. I emailed him again on 3/8. He responded with one of the three biggest lies; “the checks in the mail”. I finally received it 3/14. Mike charged a 15% restocking fee for a product that never worked. I waited until the check cleared to email him asking why the restocking fee. Guess what? He hasn’t responded.
I spent close to a month trying to get that HPA compressor running. I think that products should work as advertised and when they do not, the seller should solve the problem not the buyer. I’m out over $400.00 between paying for shipping both ways and a bogus restocking fee. That’s what I get for not doing my homework on Mrodair.
I WILL NEVER DO BUSINESS OR RECOMMEND MRODAIR TO ANYONE. THEY’RE CUSTOMER RELATIONS IS THE WORST I HAVE ENCOUNTERED ON THE WEB.
Sorry that my first post had to be this kind of post.
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I doubt they were 88 cf tanks. That would be about 180 minutes of run time with frequent bleeding that entire time for every compressor. Do you think they have the the manpower & time to do that kind of a run on the units.
No, probably a little guppy tank at best.
If you already have one, do the mods, add a good filter and keep your runs short. Understand the degree of risk you are accepting with continued use of a machine with bare minimum construction handling 4500 PSI air. When I was systematically working through my unit, my recurrent thought was, “Wow, you couldn’t build this any more cheaply and have it still work.” The 0.1 inch thick crankcase was a particular surprise. This thin little thing is taking on the stress of the cylinders? I don’t think they could have made it any thinner. No cooling between or after compression stages. No safety valves. Wiring with exposed connectors. Switches and wiring too low amperage capacity. Foster connector out of spec. The machine is a case study in lowering cost by cutting corners. Some of those corners are important safety issues when you’re at 4,500 PSI and need to avoid getting moisture and hydrocarbons out of HPA tanks and guns. To save the cost of a good PCP, you’re going to risk your tank, guns & your health with this machine?
Then you add the expertise demonstrated by the water separator specially designed to have a media compartment as its first component. This is bass ackwards. Media should be after the majority of water has been removed by the separator, not first in line so it can be immediately swamped and rendered useless. A real compressor expert would not have designed it this way.
For heaven’s sake, don’t try to use the machine with just the miniature media holder that it comes with. Get a full size filter with adequate drying media, activated carbon, and pressure maintaining valve POST all the filtering. That PMV, by keeping the entire filter and water separator pressurized to at least 1600 or higher PSI will help the existing water separator and the filter be more efficient. A good add on filter with PMV is what you need to protect your tank and guns from the air this compressor produces. The Mrodair supplied unit isn’t enough. Unfortunately, once you do all the mods and add a proper filter, you are well above the $1K point and putting more money after bad.
Can you safely fill your tanks without an adding another air dryer? Probably no. Air out of the water separator is at 100% humidity and elevated temperature. Unless, a desiccant filter removes that moisture, that air is going into your tank and cooling down. Once it cools, the humidity goes over 100% and you’re set up for condensation.
Just because you got your tank or gun up to pressure and the compressor didn’t die is NOT success. That air has to be dry enough that you don’t cause corrosion. The amount of water that is already damaging is tiny when the air gets back down to ambient pressure. You might not see even if you open your tank or gun and look inside. You also need to keep the blown by oil out of your lines, tank and guns. All oil lubricated compressor have some oil blow by. On a good compressor, the amount is tiny. What’s more, on a properly engineered compressor, the air is dried sufficiently before it reaches the activated carbon. Wet activated carbon won’t effectively remove oil. The Airmax is lacking in both water removal and hydrocarbon control. That’s why you should add a decent filter and keep its cartridge replaced regularly.
If you don’t already have one, save up a bit longer and buy a much better built unit that has all the safety and filtering features already integrated. You’ll gain at the very least….
1. Far better inter cooling to reduce output air temperature and hence improve water separation
2. More stages of compression – reducing stress on each compression stage
3. Pressure safety releases – prevent catastrophic failures if valves or lines get clogged.
4. Multiple stages of water, oil, air separation
5. Longer intervals between required water bleeds
6. More robust construction, precision machining, and tighter tolerances.
7. Less risk of electrical shock and overload
8. Faster, quieter, and more convenient operation.
9. Integrated drying and hydrocarbon absorption in the proper sequence (after water separation)
10. Pressure maintaining valve to improve water separation and filtering
11. Historically proven performance, longevity, and service life
12. Better metals in component construction.
13. Predictably clean, dry air for your equipment
14. A dealer that is EXPERT in high pressure air compressor usage, limits, maintenance, and best practices.