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Here’s my 2cents…
There several CO2 guns out there whose resellers sell with big warnings to keep you work area and all parts involved ‘clean room clean’. Archer is one that notes this on documentation that comes with the rifles. Those warnings go on to say that the valve WILL leak otherwise – You have been warned.
CO2 is very ‘dirty’ compared to diver’s quality compressed air (what AF recommends). Given that we are using the same valve assembly that HPA users use, the ‘dirt’ from CO2 must overwhelm the AF valve assembly. AF will rebuild them for the price of the parts (so they told me) which is about $35 (add shipping both ways) but I’m thinking rust on the steel casing might be the culprit or part of it at least and replacing the valve parts won’t fix the rust problem (if it exists). No idea what the answer. Since I have 2 that leak and are out of warrenty, I’m going to open one up and look for rust etc…. Just haven’t gotten around to it.
i am shooting with 1400psi HPA and it never leaks. i know another person with the same rig as mine (1400psi HPA) and his leaks air if his valve spring is too lose.
if it is the spring causing the problem it is a simple fix. got no pics to post, sorry.
otherwise what PSI are you at right now? maybe it is not enough to keep the TH closed.
Co2 (1800 PSI tank)
Are there any schematics out here to look at? I am hoping I will not have to mess with it and it will be replaced…
having spoke to another member i would say you need to tighten up your valve spring retainer to put more pressure on the TH and keep it closed.
otherwise what PSI are you at right now? maybe it is not enough to keep the TH closed.
FNG here… It leaked to minute I hooked it up then held for a bit… I just shot 10 rounds threw it and co2 is leaking from the tophat area again?
Per one of the posts here I tried to flush it with “divers spray silicone.” It held for 1 shots then started leaking again!
This is starting to piss me off…
Can this be fixed here at home or am I f-ed?
Thanks
For there, can get at the “goodies” from the back end. Once you get the retaining cap and valve return spring out from the back, can remove the top hat and slide the valve stem out towards the back.
Thanks….That is what I was hoping to hear……
If you grip the co2 adaptor by it’s flats at the tank end (with a padded vice…I used lead sheets) and use a close fitting rod in the valve recess on the side, can get the valve to detach from the adaptor.
For there, can get at the “goodies” from the back end. Once you get the retaining cap and valve return spring out from the back, can remove the top hat and slide the valve stem out towards the back.
I just got a pair of plyers and unscrewed the brass valve unless you bought it used and the previous owner tightened it down with dear might.
If you’re refering to the valve stem… you should be able to pull it out.
It’s no different for the valve system on the AirForce tanks.
The valve spring has collapsed….Need to figure a way to change it or burn it…lol
Is it leaking out the valve? Seems to be a more common problem than I realized. If so, and you have any luck, let us know.
if so then pull the valve stem and try some Good snap ring pliers or an adjustable face spanner wrench
I was hope to unscrew the whole assembly from the body….I’ll give the snap ring pliers a try..
I’m not sure, but isn’t it an old condor valve with two holes in the brass retainer?
if so then pull the valve stem and try some Good snap ring pliers or an adjustable face spanner wrench
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There several CO2 guns out there whose resellers sell with big warnings to keep you work area and all parts involved ‘clean room clean’. Archer is one that notes this on documentation that comes with the rifles. Those warnings go on to say that the valve WILL leak otherwise – You have been warned.
CO2 is very ‘dirty’ compared to diver’s quality compressed air (what AF recommends). Given that we are using the same valve assembly that HPA users use, the ‘dirt’ from CO2 must overwhelm the AF valve assembly. AF will rebuild them for the price of the parts (so they told me) which is about $35 (add shipping both ways) but I’m thinking rust on the steel casing might be the culprit or part of it at least and replacing the valve parts won’t fix the rust problem (if it exists). No idea what the answer. Since I have 2 that leak and are out of warrenty, I’m going to open one up and look for rust etc…. Just haven’t gotten around to it.
Please let us know what you find.