Damn Chinese raw extrusion!!
👿 Okay, back story for those that don’t know about these evil, idea inducing extrusions:
China put out these AF- like extrusions… they look good, as near to exact copies of them, but the I.D. is off… at the top, it’s egg shaped. I wouldn’t have noticed it but for Doug’s work with one. Well, like an ass, I have two. A short length (Talon sized) and a longer length (30+ inches). Of course they’re out of round too. I checked mine with the blast baffle of the Sound Loc kit. The rest of the tube is fine, but for that slight egg shape on top… well fuck 👿 . So, after many nights of thinking of how to fix it (or toss them), this idea pops into my head:
I’ve been looking at glass bedding recently, and got to thinking: get a rod, machine the O.D. to make sure it’s good and straight, and the size and length I need, and use a good bedding compound to fill the gap at the top of the I.D. of the tube… wait for the epoxie to dry, and voila my tube is round again, and if I can find a good enough epoxie, it can be machined w/o the fear of chipping… I wanted to run this by you guys to see if it’s completely crazy or what…
I really don’t want to scrap these extrusions, not so much because of the cost.. I’ve got less than half of what a single AF frame costs into two of them so far… But other than this little flaw (that hopefully gets fixed at the factory) they’re a great basis for a .257 or bigger build… machine the frame how you like, and it’s uber stiff… My idea is for the extrusion is this:
Right side feed only
Side cocker (of course)
M1913 rail on top, as low as I can go w/a 20 (25?) MOA angle built in, running the length of the frame (but does not extend onto the shroud).
Leave most of the lower rail in place to further stiffen the frame, and to mount a better looking fore grip (pretty much looks like the one from an EBR though made
for this rifle), and a short length of M1913 for a bipod
A WOKGard15… Gotta have some of Adam’s work on this thing too!!
I really don’t want to give up on this idea!!!!!
All Replies
I’m not a machinist, so I’m not sure what is and is not doable. That’s all I was getting at. I have no idea how it’s going to be machined… I wonder if they’d let me watch… I do love to watch 😆 Now that I’m not doing two things at once (math and thinking about the extrusion), It wouldn’t make sense that I’d have to machine both sides of the loading port… duh. I really need to learn the basics of machining before I come up with projects like this… 🙄 😳
Why can’t he machine only one side?
Does anyone have those old frame’s schematic pictures? I can’t seem to find them anywhere, and the ONE I’ve found online is waaaaay too fuzzy. The quick reference doesn’t have them anymore either. I need to know where to drill and what size holes.
Here’s a thought: I might have to have both sides of the loading port machined out… I’ll see if the machinist can do the needed work w/o machining out both sides of the loading port; I really want it to be right-side feed only. I would think it would be okay, right? I mean, since it’s still going to be a side cocker, and it’s not having any part of the scope rail machined out for weight or for the breech knob, it’ll still be more stiff than factory, right? Thoughts?
That’s another thing I want to fix… I want to use SOME AF parts… so I want to make sure the bore is tighter…
I just picked up one of these about 3 weeks ago . As best as I could measure it is round within 2-3 thou . The only thing is
the ID is 1.027 . Guess this means all custom internals.
That may be true- so this might be the first truly round frame… I wonder what it would do for accuracy? 😆 I’ll be working out some time to see the machinist- I’ve found one, and it IS the company I was hoping for! I’ll keep everyone posted! For now, I just want to fix the I.D. I’ll worry about the rest of the machining later. I’ll also need to figure out what else I’d like to do w/the frame. I think I’ll be leaving on more material- I just don’t want to end up w/an ugly duck like crosman’s new 9mm bullpup… 🙄
BTW Idid never see a 100% round Talon frame, and when you make the bushing tight, you got no problem with the frame.
I made the two bushing now in one piece of brass, it add extra weight and man it’s so stiff, like my ….. 😳
Well, the bug for a .257 rears it’s beautiful head once again. I figure I can’t necro post on my own stuff soooo… The question of the china extrusion comes up again in my mind. I have sent out some feelers to see if any local places can handle the job. Some new hits came up on the Goog. One shop looks VERY promising!! I’m hoping they can help me out. The idea, for those that don’t want to read the past posts is simply: Re-bore the center so that the egg-shape is gone, then sleeve the extrusion w/a tube stock, w/the correct and ROUND I.D. Then epoxy the sleeve into the extrusion, like re-lining a barrel. Making sure to use an epoxy that can be machined, and handle 300 degrees, for when the extrusion is finally Cerakoted. After sleeving, the rest of the work can be done to get this frame ready to be used…. This sleeving idea is about the best I can come up with- I can see no other easy alternative. All told, this frame will be pricey, I know, but if it’s the only way to get all the specs I want in a frame… well… fuck me, I’ll do it.
LOL true…
you can connect extension bars, unlimited, so that will work, use some ducktape by the connects to keep them away from the bore,
a bit Macgyver style :biggrinn:
Nice!! I don’t think I can make/find an extension long enough though- Mine is 9.75″ longer than yours… I’ll be thinking on this.
total length of extrusion 21 3/4 ” or 55 cm. is okay for me.
The adj. reamer is from a local shop, not top Q. ( china )but it works, and put a socket on it and an extension rod and wrench.
at the end of the reamer a put a bushing from black delrin with a good fit in the bore, to center the reamer.
I shoot every bunny I see!!
That looks like an adjustable hand reamer in the pic- did you do this by hand??? What did you do for the extension? How long is your extrusion? Mine is 31.5″…
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
LOL…a fine Chance the Gardner-ism…heh-heh-heh.
The .300 groove, TJ pellet barrel is pretty fine. I have one in hand built into a Marauder and since the twist is set up for pellets at 26″ the heaviest stuff it has eaten are the 70 gr Bob’s Boat tail slug from an Accurate mold. I suspect it could handle something slightly heavier with a gas check shank as the rebated BT eats up stability margin pretty fast. Actual BC testing with G1 model says BC is nearly .1….or double that of a pellet for a 40% increase in mass…:)
cheers,
Douglas