Damn Chinese raw extrusion!!
👿 Okay, back story for those that don’t know about these evil, idea inducing extrusions:
China put out these AF- like extrusions… they look good, as near to exact copies of them, but the I.D. is off… at the top, it’s egg shaped. I wouldn’t have noticed it but for Doug’s work with one. Well, like an ass, I have two. A short length (Talon sized) and a longer length (30+ inches). Of course they’re out of round too. I checked mine with the blast baffle of the Sound Loc kit. The rest of the tube is fine, but for that slight egg shape on top… well fuck 👿 . So, after many nights of thinking of how to fix it (or toss them), this idea pops into my head:
I’ve been looking at glass bedding recently, and got to thinking: get a rod, machine the O.D. to make sure it’s good and straight, and the size and length I need, and use a good bedding compound to fill the gap at the top of the I.D. of the tube… wait for the epoxie to dry, and voila my tube is round again, and if I can find a good enough epoxie, it can be machined w/o the fear of chipping… I wanted to run this by you guys to see if it’s completely crazy or what…
I really don’t want to scrap these extrusions, not so much because of the cost.. I’ve got less than half of what a single AF frame costs into two of them so far… But other than this little flaw (that hopefully gets fixed at the factory) they’re a great basis for a .257 or bigger build… machine the frame how you like, and it’s uber stiff… My idea is for the extrusion is this:
Right side feed only
Side cocker (of course)
M1913 rail on top, as low as I can go w/a 20 (25?) MOA angle built in, running the length of the frame (but does not extend onto the shroud).
Leave most of the lower rail in place to further stiffen the frame, and to mount a better looking fore grip (pretty much looks like the one from an EBR though made
for this rifle), and a short length of M1913 for a bipod
A WOKGard15… Gotta have some of Adam’s work on this thing too!!
I really don’t want to give up on this idea!!!!!
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No, training by Varian medical systems.
SEMA, O yes a car show, only thing for me are the bunny’s, always a hunter 😛
You coming here for SEMA?
Hey YOU CAN DO IT! just a few simple tools, the adj. reamer cost you $25.
I’m in November in the Sates Vegas NV. 😛
I really wish you were in the States!! I need this done to my extrusion!!
I got the idea, sounds good.
I will put the the barrel without force in an one piece brass bushing, with a tight fitting in the frame,
so no tension on the barrel.
I think it will be a .22 with a long barrel, with a silencer on the barrel, with 1/2 UNF
here a pic of the simple tools, I use also an extension rod for the full length.
Looks good but I have a question: is centered inner hole from the outside? I put this question because I think you’ll want to do a thread on the front and if the hole is not centered you will force the barrel.
Nice
Picture of what you used please.
Pfft :16: after 1 1/2 hour sweat, oil and elbow grease it’s done, 😛 only the flex-hone is not in my greasy workshop.
it’s nice round inside 26,12 mm, did give it a try with a 3 stone hone tool for the drill works okay,
but now first to the beach for a swim.
Just catch the cow by the horns, so we call that overhere ( not a bull ), and give the reamer a try, when it’s in the bore it works nice must make only an extension rod for the full length, and after that clean it out with a flex hone.
And boys it’s NOT rocket science, and I will use ONE full length brass bushing for the barrel,( add some weight, stability 😛 ),
so I don’t see big problems.
No body has really messed with the extrusions over here, they’re not made right from the factory, and as of right now, they’re too much work to make right… I’m willing to try, but I need to find a machinist, and that means $$$!! When you get your extrusion, check it- run a barrel bushing from another AF gun down the inside- you’ll see what we mean, it’s egg shaped! :angrymob:
Hey. How is going?
I recieve this week also a raw chinees ugly bar!
Will try to push an adjustable reamer trough it , maybe with some guiding.
Okay will lost a few 0.1 mm but it will still be MUCH STRONGER then the AF frame.
Specially on the loading breech when I keep half the tube, ( or more )
Advice welcome for tips and tricks, ( thinking to keep extra material at front for a bipod ).
Think it will be an autumn / winter project, still busy with shooting and bass fishing. :fishinghole:
Here’s what I’m also thinking for a custom frame… It’s kind of eerie, how close this design is to what was in my head:
Obviously there’s a few changes that would need to be made to suit our purposes, but… for the most part, there it is.
Thanks for the input Doug!! I always love reading your gems of wisdom!! I’m noticing a lot of accuracy results on the TJ .30 barrel, which is ONE of the reasons I got one for a Rapid build… but there isn’t anything really (except for Tony’s reports) on the LW barrel. Here’s to hoping the guy who bought the first AAA .30 from Tony posts his review… with lots of pics!!
NOTE: Again, I must stress that I’m in no way criticizing the use of a LW… Just stating facts. No a lot data for the LW vs. data available on the TJ, via the internet.
It’ll take a while, but I’ll let everyone know the results on sleeving the chinese extrusion. I’m crossing my fingers.
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lol It’s a bit of both for me… So where would one buy this fancy-schmancy reamer at?