First crony shot string…
OK so I was interested to see what my SS would do with the HI-FLO bottle, striker weight, 18 barrel, shooting .22 Kodiaks. Here’s what the crono said. 21 shots, 2500 psi down to about 1750. Wondering if this sounds about right. Seems pretty consistant over all. My first recorded string.
1/ 1191
2/ 1211
3/ 1189
4/ 1169
5/ 1176
6/ 1174
7/ 1190
8/ 1184
9/ 1169
10/ 1174
11/ 1173
12/ 1174
13/ 1180
14/ 1175
15/ 1179
16/ 1176
17/ 1167
18/ 1160 (POI goes down hill from here)
19/ 1150
20/ 1136
21/ 1110
I know the general rule seems to be keeping Kodiaks in the 950 to 1000 fps range for accuracy, but I’m getting great groups at these speeds. No flourecent lighting here.
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I would say frame extender end about 12/ 15″ from first sensor. First time I shot a string with it, just took a couple shots thru it with some other configs/ guns before.
About a yard or meter is better as a minimum. Blast can mess things up.
Matthius, yeah I’ve shot a few different pellets, with good, to mixed results, but the 21.1 grainer Kodiak remains to be my all around pellet of choice, be it in .22, or .25. Certainly doesn’t mean I won’t be trying the heavier stuff in the future, at least for testing out just to see how bigger ones perform. But I’m thinking a .25 with 24″ in a Condor/SS set up with 31gr Kodiaks is a bit more than I need as it is with a backyard that’s all of 20yrds long lol.
shot at the 800+ fps and beyond 30 yds is pushing accuracy.
I meant around 800. Like 6 – high 8
Is this what Saugus18 is shooting?
I remember when the guy I bought my gun from new, thought (heard) that the low 20’s for gr was almost heavy! I’ve benn finding (have found) that I like (to each thier own) for most hunting, a 28 gr. Depending on distance and the pounds of punch power, I realy do enjoy the results from 30 gr PILE DRIVERS. I just ran out (and it’s a bummer) of the newest knowledge of 32 gr that fit my barrel about .06 mm to large! When I turn up my power dial to give it “umph” just to leave my gun, and have what is needed for flight & impact, they rifle out and actually
(I swear) about raise up or fly! Then, HIT solid! knocking the prey for a tumble, to death…
The hollow “points” I’ve gotten have not been theat heavy, more like 17 gr and the distance/accuracy is not so great. Those ARE TO BE shot at the 800+ fps and beyond 30 yds is pushing accuracy.
Any hollows near a 30 gr pellet?
Also, the PILE DRIVERS (30 gr) are actually, air forced BULLETs.
the 32 gr I had are pellets, and kinda quite large.
Beeman Kodiaks are rated 21.1 grains and are a semi-dome or semi-pointed pellet.
to: airtight_python Ahhhh… :11
So, what style of pellet? ➡
BB dent is in the plastic of the rear sensor, the thing you see is a hole in the design of the chrony.
Is that BB dent a hair to the right @ the bottom of the chrony? Or is that a screw?
I’m gonna be using the laptop, that goes by sound, and completes several equasions from that. It goes in the center of the distance shot.
Any feed back on those?
Also, different pellets perform at thier peak (as was intended) at different power settings, speed (fps) and also distance used therein.
What gr. are you shooting (the Kodiak grain your using), what head type of pellet? ➡
The problem I usually have is ERR2. Which is a misreading of the rear sensor. It’s not the sensors fault, but my own for sometimes aiming through it a little cock-eyed. I bought this chrony used, it came with a box and paperwork that indicated it was more than 10 years old. Still works like a champ and looks about new (except a BB dent I put in it). Good chrony’s.
Nice lighting set up you got there airtight… looks like I’ll be doing something similar in the near future. I may even need something like that during the day, as I always shoot from a patio, but has a roof over it. Seems my crony doesn’t like to be in the shade so much. Maybe that’s causing so many errors. Even when the crony is running right I get errors lol.
Between your findings and the thoughts of the folks here we got that one figured out quick. Good job!
I use one, 40 watt incandescent lamp above each sensor indoors, it’s plenty even in a total dark room.
OK guys…. I am SOOOO sorry… those numbers I posted are indeed incorrect. Yesterday, when I began using the crony, the sun was going down, so I hung a flood light above the crony so it could still pick up the pellets passing thru. This was not a flourecent light, so I thought everything would be OK. Well, I shot some more this afternoon, with regular daylight.
For some reason, I was getting so many errors that I really don’t have a decent shot to shot string to post, but I’ll just say it was shooting Kodiaks in the very high 900’s to the low 1000’s… gee, maybe that’s why I never heard a sonic crack? The light I used must have thrown the whole thing off, can’t think of any other reason for the mess up.
But hey, shooting Kodiaks in or around the 1000 fps mark is fine by me, in fact, I got a couple flyers here and there, suggesting they actually may be going a bit to fast as it is. As I mentioned earlier, it was my first time using it, so now I know better… I apoligize for posting inaccurate info… 😳
@ most living, above water zones you are going to shoot. YOU SHOULD hear a bit of a CRACK.
I am referring to those of us that exceed 1000 fps. ➡
When using the Condor tank/valve, you need to add the striker weight to help open the stronger Condor valve, so yes, in effect your increasing hammer weight, but it’s something you can use with a stock hammer. If you were to get a Condor bottle for your gun, it comes with the striker weight, at least mine did. When you use the Talon bottle, just remove the weight if you want, not really needed for the Talon valve.
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.25 with 24″ in a Condor/SS set up with 31gr Kodiaks is a bit more than I need as it is with a backyard that’s all of 20yrds long lol.
Yaa… I hear yU. It is real tuff for me, that I live in the middle of “down town” so to say. Law says a blowgun, slingshot, paintball, etc. is illegal IN town. $500 fine. Uhh, yaa, I got a fine…
:3