Fuck ME!

I’m not borrowing anyone’s rifle Y, the chap is with me at all times while I’m performing my fiendish experiments. The valve will be used on my rifle only while abroad (Iceland and Japan). For domestic use the stock setup is perfectly adequate for rabbits.

Tit for tat nonsense, it’s become pretty obvious there’s a twee little campaign of Conventry going on here. There are a few grown-ups who maintain discourse with me, but the main clique are falling over themselves to pretend I don’t exist. That’ll be because I’ve done what I said I would do, despite the ‘expert’ insistence that I would fail. Yes, that grips the shit, doesn’t it chaps. The big-mouth know-it-all followed through, and instead of being big enough to get over it you resort to childish playground behavior (“Ignore him, don’t play with him”). 😆

Please, don’t insult my intelligence with futile denials, it’s fucking obvious. And please don’t make the mistake of thinking that my pointing it out is motivated by hostility. It’s not. I’m amused to the point of finding it entertaining, and after giving it plenty of posts to confirm what’s going on I see no reason why I shouldn’t ‘play the game’ as it were and do some poking with my stick. 😉

Marc, I already posted pictures of my first prototype. I’ve just got through the latest round of tests. I reduced the tophat travel by 5mm, bottle up to 2300psi and got a 1045fps with the first shot, blew the silencer and chrony across the yard with the second, and then got a string of high 900’s (approx ten shots). Only downside was the bottle pressure went from 2300 to 1700. A hell of a lot of noise from each shot, so clearly way too much air coming out. But then I’m using some pretty shoddy components, a seperate stem and tophat/stem (two parts), both very loose fitting. This is with two spacers behind the hammer-spring. With only one spacer the valve won’t open enough to give more than around 400fps.

There’s clearly a complex interelation between a number of components, which makes for multiple variables in performance. Sean’s obviously cracked it, I’ve got a bit more work to do unless I choose to follow his path and go with a custom main body or find a way of introducing all of the brass to within the stock body instead of having it mounted beneath.

Anyway, hope all this is of some interest to the adults here. The children can continue to ignore me, but will have to tolerate my manufactured smugness that is nothing more than a tool intended to wind them up. The game’s a two-way street, no? 😉 😆

I’m not insane, I’m a Viking. 😛

I got the word from Sean that a 7.5mm seal was the absolute maximum unless one went with a rifle-wrecking spring and hammer. So until I get the hang of going real fine with my lathe I’ve gone with a 5mm bore, 6mm OD (actually 5.75mm) and a 6.25mm seal (seals right on the edge of the ID on the bore in the brass body). The weird thing is it looks hardly any bigger than the stock size (seal contact-area) but takes a hell of a lot more force to open it. 😕

I reckon I could get a 6mm bore, 6.75mm OD and a 7.25mm seal but unless I’m going to go to a .25 cal barrel I don’t see much point. The rounds would go too fast and screw the accuracy (judging by the experience of others here who have been down that path). 950fps will be more than enough I think, but with a better fill than 2000psi if possible.