Q:

has anyone seen the new hybrid slug?

I watched a video from Airgun-101 which featured the slug. It’s a hollow-point with said BC of 0.08. Lots of shooting in the video. bit expensive at $15.00 per 100 slugs. I don’t think I should post a link here, so I’ll simply say it’s good to see this new twist for the community. I wonder if my Short can handle it.
darryl

Taipan Air Rifles

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Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 85 total)

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I agree and email sent man.

Sorry to op for tanking your thread…

rowdy,
I’m desperate to take this offline from the thread. The PM function evades me. So, if you are willing to do so, here’s my email addy:
longbowdt@gmail.com I think people would appreciate this thread gong back on topic.
thank you,
Darryl

Good morning rowdy,
A short one, but here goes, in response to your questions
1- barrel length: 11.9″
2- The Short’s current shooting speed = 780 fps with 18 grain Air Arms Heavy pellets.
3-clean pellet head diameter is 5.48 mm averaged over several pellets
4- skirt diameter: numbers are irregular due to being so easily distorted, no reliable measurements
5-rifled pellet diameter (measuring the grooves in the pellet head while trying to approximate 180 degrees separation) 5.41 mm I measure three pellets shoved through the barrel for this average. I used my 22x eye loupe to look into the barrel from both ends. I saw a strand of metal, which I will assume is lead. The barrel needs a good cleaning, which I’ll do when I have some free time, lots going on today. I’ll then give it a Flitz cleaning behind that.

Hope this is useful to you.
Darryl

Oh heck yes, no hurry on my end either 🙂 I worked in the oil field for Exxon all over and there big thing was to hurry even if you were waiting, you hurried to wait. Use to pmo too.

So I don’t hurry!

You just do what you need to and we can proceed when you can…

rowdy,
Just what I needed. HOMEWORK! 😀 but please be a bit patient. I’ll send you everything you’ve asked for tomorrow. I’ve been a bit busy with some car stuff at the shop I took it too. That just ate up my time. I did push two pellets through the barrel already. Just alittle tired now. I’ll measure them tomorrow, then rinse and repeat as necessary. 🙂
thank you for the assist! Much appreciated!
Darryl

Any Chrony data you have with what your shooting?

Darryl,

I just measured some of the 22 pellets I have.

The heads measure .215″ the skirts .221… This what your shooting?

Maybe I need to send you some Pellets to try 🙂
I have good old stash, as well as the new stuff, even some of the lead free stuff.

Darryl,

Its not going to be that big a problem man…

What I am asking is like the .2175″ pellets you have, or whatever size you have.

You take one and push it from the breech end of the Frankin’ barrel 🙂 sorry can’t help myself 🙂

Once you get the pellet to the muzzle, don’t let it hit the floor, push it on to a soft towel or get someone to get it. You stay focused on steady and straight pushing the pellet out.

Then all you need to do is tell me what is the diameter of the head and skirt before and after you push it..

Now on the pellet after coming through the bore, I need to know the rifling cut diameter, as well as the area between the rifling, that me be even swedged down somewhat from the original size of the pellet before going through the bore.

That will get me square on the diameter.

Then, I want to know how long this barrel is over all? Then how far from the muzzle end of barrel does the choke start to effect your feel as you push the pellet through.

Measure the end of your push rod and include the square nose jag your using.

Don’t use the pointed Jag’s if you don’t have to.

Push the pellet till you feel it start to snug in the choke, then measure how much of your push rod left out the breech. That will get us close enough…

We good and square together? We can do this and not to worry here, I am not sending you anything like some of the stuff I linked in this thread.

The Cratex I can send you once cut and turned to the correct size is just to polish and hone slow and steady. The big advantage here over the paste and or liquids, it works and keeps the bore round…

Still your call bud, its easy for me if you don’t want to mess with this, and its cool if you want to do this.

You will take one of these slugs I make at a time, push it through a few times , then push a pellet through look at it and then record the measurements you get.

You will need to push the choke only area first, I will explain that later if we are doing this. But once the muzzle has a pellet come through the choke looking better, you will push the same slug from the breech end out the muzzle.

And you will do this in one smooth clean motion. It can land on the bench top or where ever. Your going to do this a few times. Then we push a new pellet and have a good look see for your marring, feathered look, then measure and log that.

Your not going to see big measurements changing here, which is a good thing.

rowdy, that image shows the diameter at 3/16 “. That converts to 4.7625 mm. The largest slug diameter I have on order is .2175” which is 5.5245 mm (the Nielsen slug; the H&N slug is .217 (as advertised) which is 5.5118 mm. Does that mean committing to one slug or the other? It’s all making me whoozy! 🙂

hi rowdy,
I’m not sure how such a piece would fit, nor what diameter to spec it, to ensure there’s enough material left on the lands to sustain the spiral from the barrel’s unchoked portion. It’s generous offer. I just don’t understand what it involves. A little hlp?
thank you,
Darryl

Heck, I got where I could not post this morning.

Darryl, I been trying to tell you I would wanted to make and send you something to push through your barrel. If you would like to try one?

This is the cratex, I have also been misspelling the darn stuff.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/jewelling-tools-accessories/3-16-x-6-cratex-rod-sku190036002-5179-11969.aspx?cm_mmc=cse-_-Itwine-_-shopzilla-_-190-036-002&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=connexity&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=190-036-002

This is what I make slugs from… Now that I can hang something on here.

I need to know what diameter is tight but not too tight, .217, .2175, .218″ or what?

I can make a tool on the lathe, then use it to make the correct size of Cratex. Then an address to send these.

Just for shits and giggles your email address and maybe a cell number. Damn I must’ve tried posting 30 minutes this morning to ask you this… Site would not let me 🙂

I was only kidding about running out of paper!!! Now maybe I did use it all 🙂

That or I was banned for using more than my share 🙂

Anyway, just let me know if you would like to try some of these and if so I can tell you how to use them generally, as well how to concentrate them in the choked portion only.

Just an update. It’s purgatory waiting on Fed_X and USPS to deliver the slugs. First it was Wednesday for the H&N slugs from PA, but that changed to Friday. Then I get notification that the Nielsen slugs are now coming on Friday as well. The Nielsen slugs are stated to be 0.2175 (17.5 grain) while the H&Ns are said to be 0.217 (21 grain). I can understand Niesen because it ships from out of state for me, but PA is up-state from me. Well, I served my country and somehow forgot the old rule ” hurry up and wait!”. 🙂
Darryl

Good morning all,
rowdy, thanks for the link. I just saw it so I’ll check it out in a bit.
As for how my barrel groups at 25 yards (30 too) it cuts twigs at that distance, so it’s more accurate than I normally am. It’s perfect for small pest species. I did notice that it took the barrel a bit of shooting (seasoning?) after I gave it the Flitz treatment, but the accuracy returned. In the grand scheme of things I’m a bit ocd about that feathering. Even more so when I consider the possibility of shooting slugs through that barrel, thinking of what I’ve learned about slugs so far. I figure as long as the choke remains somewhat tighter than the rest of the barrel, and spin is still imparted to both pellet and slug, then it’s a worthwhile pursuit if I can reduce drag in the barrel and scavenge a few more fps in the process. The proof is in the shooting. When I Flitzed the barrel, that was done after JB-Bore-ing the entire barrel, just to polish it,and see where that got me. Shiny, but still feathering. feathering equals drag to my primitive way of thinking. So, the Flitz but only at the choke.

But maybe we should take this aspect of the discussion to PMs? I feel as if I’m hijacking the thread by focusing on my gun.
Darryl
btw, I’ve added this:
I looked at the contents of the link you posted. That final Finish bullet kit’s smallest size is .224 is nearly 5.65mm, and that’s a larger diameter than the 5.52 pellets I shoot. I’ll look for a bore paste that I can use to increase the diameter of the choke, and take my time doing it until I reach some point where I don’t see feathering, and maybe a little beyond that. Not sure how shallow the rifling impression needs to be to still impart effective spin.

Darryl,

I have thought about your barrel issue and I may have misunderstood you on it…

This barrel of yours, how does it group @ 25yrds or whatever distance you normally shoot?

Then I am guessing here you have felt there was never enough speed from it into the projectiles ultimately leaving low fpe!

Another ? Is what pellet you use weight size and any other info?

Then the ultimate question here, as is you consider this barrel usable or not really? This a tough question and I am not being insensitive so please understand here…

I make my own soft gratex slugs I push though the bores, some what like the stuff linked above.

Now from what you say, you fell this problem sounds the issue is in the choke portion of the barrel! If so this could be another process needed to inflicted on this freakin’ Franken’ barrel! Pun intended 🙂

I love these sorts of challenges, I actually thrive on them… So depending on your answers to above questions I may can help you, if you like of coarse!

So let’s figure your frankin’ barrel out and basically if you want to rework it!

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